Bourjois in WWII

In 1940, the Nazi Luftwaffe launched a bombing campaign near London, targeting strategic sites such as the Croydon airfield and nearby factories essential to wartime production. Among these was a British factory operated by Bourjois, Inc., a renowned perfume company famous for iconic fragrances like Evening in Paris, Ashes of Roses, Kobako, and Mais Oui. The factory, partially converted for wartime efforts, manufactured shaving soap for the British Army. Rather than producing soap entirely on-site, Bourjois purchased a pre-made soap base, enhanced it with their signature perfuming agents, pressed it into cakes, and packaged it under the Bourjois brand.

Tragedy struck when two German Messerschmitt fighter planes crashed into Croydon's densely populated suburbs during the raid. Six incendiary bombs devastated the Bourjois factory, along with other facilities nearby. Despite the critical nature of these areas, air raid sirens failed to sound until 17 minutes after the first bombs had fallen. This delay proved catastrophic for employees working the night shift, as sixty lives were lost and 180 individuals were injured. The factory was reduced to rubble, and the floral scents of its destroyed perfumes lingered in the air around Croydon for days, a poignant reminder of the attack.

The factory's destruction sparked intrigue for decades, with persistent rumors claiming the remains of one of the German planes had been entombed within the walls of the rebuilt structure. Bourjois, by then owned by Chanel, confirmed the existence of the aircraft remains but refrained from providing public access or photographic evidence, stating that removal of the wreckage could compromise the building's structural integrity. While the company described the embedded plane as an early postal aircraft, the lack of transparency left room for speculation.

The factory was completely rebuilt in 1948, rising from the ashes to continue its legacy of producing beloved perfumes and beauty products. The resilience of Bourjois mirrored the indomitable spirit of the British people during the war, turning a symbol of destruction into one of recovery and renewal.

The photo below shows the rebuilt Bourjois factory (in the center) in 1949, colorized by me.

 

Endearing by Bourjois c1946

Endearing by Bourjois: launched in 1946. Created by perfumer Constantin Mikhailovich “Kot” Weriguine. In 1949, it was renamed "Ramage" for export to other countries to avoid trademark violations.

Evening in Paris Perfume Gift Sets Ad 1940

 

Evening in Paris Gift Sets 1941 Ad

 Evening in Paris Gift Sets 1941 Ad.

1863 Eau de Cologne by Bourjois c1963

 1863 by Bourjois: launched in 1963. 

Evasion by Bourjois c1970

Evasion by Bourjois: launched in 1970. A trademark for the name was filed as early as 1964. Created by Henri Robert.

On the Wind by Bourjois c1956

On the Wind by Bourjois: launched in 1956. Created by perfumer Constantin Mikhailovich “Kot” Weriguine. This was one scent in a line of three summer colognes: On the Wind, Frosty Mist and Spice 'N Ice.

Glamour by Bourjois c1953

Launched in 1953, Glamour by Bourjois arrived at the height of post-war optimism and a burgeoning cultural fascination with sophistication and style. The early 1950s were marked by a return to elegance after the austerity of World War II. Christian Dior had revolutionized fashion with his "New Look" in 1947, emphasizing femininity with cinched waists, full skirts, and luxurious fabrics. Hollywood icons like Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly, and Marilyn Monroe became global symbols of beauty, charm, and poise. Against this backdrop, Bourjois chose the name "Glamour" to evoke a sense of enchantment and allure that perfectly complemented the era’s cultural ideals.

The word "Glamour" originates from Old Scots, where it referred to a magical or spellbinding quality. By the mid-20th century, it had evolved to signify a captivating charm, elegance, or beauty, often associated with celebrities and the allure of high society. Pronounced “GLAM-er", the word conjures visions of shimmering gowns, glittering jewels, and the magnetic confidence of a woman who commands attention without effort. Women in the 1950s would have been drawn to a perfume named Glamour, imagining it as the invisible accessory that could elevate their presence, much like a favorite lipstick or a well-tailored dress.

In scent, Glamour captures this sense of sophistication and allure through its meticulous composition. The aldehydic opening offers a sparkling freshness, akin to sunlight dancing on crystal. Green and fruity top notes introduce a lively vibrancy, while the green floral heart provides a natural elegance, evoking images of lush gardens and fresh bouquets. These elements flow seamlessly into a mossy, balsamic, and woody chypre base, which grounds the fragrance with depth and warmth. This final accord evokes the sun-soaked hills of Provence, a place of understated beauty and timeless charm.

Ramage by Bourjois c1949

Launched in 1949 and introduced to the U.S. market by 1951, Ramage by Bourjois captured the imagination of a post-war era yearning for sophistication and optimism. The name "Ramage," derived from French, refers to the song of birds and the foliage of trees. Pronounced as “rah-MAHZH”, the word evokes a sense of lyrical beauty, natural harmony, and serene elegance. Its poetic quality aligns perfectly with the fragrance's character, which blends acute, contrasting notes into a symphony of olfactory artistry.

For women of the late 1940s and early 1950s, the name "Ramage" would have conjured images of verdant forests, dappled sunlight, and the joyous melodies of birdsong. These natural elements spoke to a world that, after the turmoil of World War II, sought renewal, beauty, and tranquility. As a perfume, the name hinted at a composition that was both refined and emotive—a fragrance that could transport the wearer to a realm of serene elegance while still exuding a confident sensuality.

The leathery floral semi-oriental (chypre) structure of Ramage, created by the illustrious perfumers Henri Robert and Constantin Mikhailovich “Kot” Weriguine, reflected the sophistication implied by its name. It opened with the sharp brightness of aldehydes, a signature of the era, paired with the intoxicating richness of jasmine. These acute top notes announced the fragrance with boldness and elegance, capturing attention like the first trill of a bird’s song.

Flamme by Bourjois c1932

Flamme by Bourjois, launched in 1932, carries a name that captures the essence of its allure and vibrancy. The word "Flamme," pronounced "flahm", is French for "flame." This evocative name conjures imagery of glowing embers, passionate intensity, and radiant warmth. Symbolically, it represents light, life, and the enduring spark of elegance and desire. In the context of perfumery, "Flamme" suggests a fragrance that ignites the senses, smoldering with captivating allure while maintaining a flickering freshness.

Bourjois, a brand celebrated for its accessibility and flair, likely chose the name "Flamme" to resonate with women embracing the bold optimism and modernity of the early 1930s. The name embodies sophistication and confidence, aligning with a woman who is both a trendsetter and a romantic. It evokes emotions of passion, vitality, and intrigue, qualities that resonated deeply during a time of social transformation and glamour.

A fragrance called "Flamme" naturally invites an olfactory journey reflecting its fiery name. The dominant geranium note provides a fresh, rosy sharpness with subtle minty undertones, evoking the brightness and intensity of a flame. As a fresh floral oriental, the composition would have paired crisp florals like jasmine and rose with spicy, resinous, and warm base notes such as amber, vanilla, and patchouli. This juxtaposition of freshness and warmth mirrors the dynamic nature of a flame—ever-changing yet mesmerizing.

Beau Belle by Bourjois c1949

 Launched in 1949 by Bourjois, Beau Belle captured the optimism and glamour of the post-war era. The name, derived from French, translates to "Beautiful Beauty" (boh bel) in layman’s terms, a phrase as poetic as it is simple. The repetition of "beauty" emphasizes charm and allure, reflecting the elegance Bourjois sought to evoke with this creation. The name resonates with femininity and sophistication, promising women a fragrance that would enhance their grace and allure.

The words "Beau Belle" conjure vivid imagery of classic Parisian beauty: a woman in a cinched-waist dress strolling through the bustling streets of post-war Paris, her confidence radiant and her laughter contagious. This was a time when women were reclaiming their femininity and joy after years of austerity, and a perfume named Beau Belle would have appealed to their desire for elegance, optimism, and a touch of romance. Its name evokes feelings of pride, self-assurance, and timeless charm.

Women in the late 1940s, stepping into a world reborn with color and creativity, would have found Beau Belle both modern and aspirational. The post-war period marked a resurgence of glamour, seen in Dior’s "New Look" of 1947 and the golden age of Hollywood. Perfumes during this time mirrored this trend, embracing bold compositions and luxurious presentations. In this context, Beau Belle offered a vibrant interpretation of beauty, combining a rich, multifaceted composition with a name that reflected its wearer’s elegance and poise.

Courage by Bourjois c1939

Courage, launched by Bourjois in 1939, was a fragrance that exuded confidence and defiance, particularly resonating with the changing cultural landscape of the late 1930s. The name "Courage" comes from the French word meaning "bravery" or "fortitude," pronounced as "koo-rahzh." This word would have evoked a sense of strength and audacity during a time of increasing global uncertainty, as the world stood on the brink of war. For women in the late 1930s, Courage was not just a fragrance but a statement—symbolizing resilience, empowerment, and a refusal to be diminished by the tumultuous times they were facing.

During this period, just before World War II, many women were seeking ways to express their independence, resilience, and inner strength, and Courage provided them with a way to wear these emotions on their skin. The perfume’s bold name and its dynamic composition—a spicy floral blend dominated by the warm, spicy note of carnation—reflected the very qualities it aimed to evoke. The fragrance was designed to be an audacious and youthful expression of the modern woman, a symbol of bravery and defiance against the backdrop of a world in turmoil. The fragrance would have resonated with women who were navigating uncertainty and social change, offering them a sense of empowerment in the face of adversity.

Bourjois Perfume Tester Racks

Nice looking perfume tester racks for Bourjois made up of clear lucite. The perfumes shown are: Mais Oui, Ramage, Soir de Paris and Glamour.

Mais Oui by Bourjois c1939

Mais Oui by Bourjois, launched in 1939, carried an intriguing and bold name that encapsulated the spirit of the era. The French phrase "Mais Oui" literally translates to "But Yes" in English. Pronounced "meh wee", it evokes a sense of confident affirmation, a playful and slightly teasing response, reflecting a certain lighthearted, yet assertive, charm. The phrase was widely used in France and beyond as an exclamation of enthusiastic agreement or approval, often imbued with a sense of elegance and wit. By naming their fragrance Mais Oui, Bourjois captured an essence of exuberance and femininity, aligning the perfume with a sense of modernity, sophistication, and a welcoming, yet irresistible energy. For women of the time, the name would have conveyed an image of carefree confidence, a statement of enjoyment and approval, an invitation to embrace the possibilities of life—both playful and seductive.

The scent itself, crafted by perfumer Constantin Mikhailovich "Kot" Weriguine, reflected this sense of assuredness and allure. Classified as a floral aldehydic perfume, Mais Oui shared similarities with the iconic Chanel No. 5, yet with a weightier, more sensual edge. Its aldehydic composition, which was a prominent trend during the 1930s, offered a modern, almost industrial cleanliness, lending a cool and sophisticated texture to the floral notes. However, Mais Oui distinguished itself through the use of Synarome's Animalis base, a blend of natural musk, civet, costus, and castoreum—ingredients known for their animalic, musky qualities. This animalic fixative provided a rich, warm undertone that contrasted with the cooler aldehydic top notes, creating a more sensuous and complex scent. It suggested an underlying depth, a richness that evoked both elegance and intimacy.

Clin d'Oeil by Bourjois c1984

 Launched in 1984, Clin d’Oeil by Bourjois emerged as a lively and engaging fragrance, created by renowned perfumers François Demachy and Jacques Polge. The name "Clin d’Oeil," which is French for "wink," captures a sense of flirtation, mischief, and charm. Pronounced as “klahn duh-yuh,” this phrase evokes an image of someone making a quick, playful gesture—a subtle yet deliberate act of acknowledgment or allure.

For women in the mid-1980s, the name "Clin d’Oeil" resonated with the playful confidence and bold individuality that defined the era. It suggested an effortless way to express one's personality, perhaps with a hint of mystery or cheeky fun. The phrase "wink" is universally understood as both an action and a metaphor, symbolizing charm, spontaneity, and sometimes, a secret shared between two people. As a name for a perfume, it conjures images of a woman exuding effortless charisma and leaving an indelible impression, much like the fleeting nature of a wink itself.

Interpreted as a scent, "Clin d’Oeil" could be imagined as light, sparkling, and bright—a burst of energy that doesn't overwhelm but leaves a memorable trail. The fragrance, classified as fresh, green, fruity, and floral, would embody this playful elegance. The green and fruity notes hint at vitality and youthful exuberance, while the floral heart provides an air of femininity and sophistication. Together, they evoke the spirit of a woman who can balance playful allure with refined grace.