History of Parfums Bourjois

The Beginning of Bourjois: Foundation and Early Years:

The history of Parfums Bourjois traces its origins back to 1860 when Joseph-Albert Ponsin, an actor, opened a shop at 28 Place Vendôme in Paris. The boutique specialized in perfumes, toiletries, and cosmetics. Ponsin, who was a regular at the theaters of Porte-Saint-Martin, invented a facial paste in 1862 that was used by actors to whiten their faces for stage performances. His innovative creation quickly gained popularity among theatrical professionals, which led to the hiring of Alexandre-Napoléon Bourjois from Tours to manage the paste factory.

In 1868, Bourjois purchased Ponsin’s business, marking the beginning of a new era for the company. By the 1880s, the company expanded further when Emile Orosdi became a co-proprietor. The partnership between Bourjois and Orosdi culminated in a rebranding of the business as A. Bourjois & Cie in 1890. 

The company soon became a significant player in the French cosmetics industry. Notably, in 1890, the company invented the first dry rouge, revolutionizing the way makeup was applied. It also introduced the first powder compact, further cementing Bourjois' position as a forward-thinking company in the world of cosmetics. However, Alexandre-Napoléon Bourjois passed away in 1893, leaving the company under the direction of his widow, Caroline, and her son-in-law. Orosdi continued to manage the business until he eventually bought out the Bourjois family’s share. 

In 1898, the company was acquired by Ernest Wertheimer, a prominent entrepreneur who had already built a reputation for his work in theatrical makeup, perfume production, and his highly successful rice face powder called Java. Under Wertheimer’s leadership, Bourjois expanded its reach and continued to innovate in the beauty industry. 

The Rise of Modern Fragrance and American Expansion:

In the early 1900s, Bourjois continued to make strides in the fragrance market, with Manon Lescaut being one of the first fragrances introduced in 1907. The 1910s saw Bourjois' expansion beyond France, with the company establishing an office in New York City, signaling a growing international presence. The company's shift toward modern, contemporary fragrances took place in 1917 when Pierre and Paul Wertheimer assumed control of the company. Their direction focused on modernizing the brand, including the launch of their fragrance Mon Parfum in 1919, a product that reflected the individualistic spirit of the time, with the slogan "My perfume reflects my personality."

The Wertheimer brothers' involvement with Bourjois helped forge a connection with another significant figure in the world of luxury: Coco Chanel. The Wertheimers, who had made their fortune through theater and vaudeville, formed a partnership with Chanel, eventually becoming the owners of Chanel perfumes. This connection cemented Bourjois’ influence within the global luxury perfume industry.

Bourjois in the 1920s: A Key Player in the Pharmaceutical Era:

By the 1920s, Bourjois had firmly established itself in the American market with its headquarters in New York, as well as a growing line of perfumes and cosmetics. Java, Bourjois' famous face powder, remained a cornerstone product, while perfumes like Ashes of Roses and Soir de Paris gained recognition. Soir de Paris, which debuted in 1928, would later become one of the company's most iconic fragrances, further solidifying Bourjois' place in perfume history.

During the 1920s, the company began collaborating with renowned Parisian designers and artists, with labels produced by R. Cortiglioni of Paris, and the use of famous glass manufacturers like Baccarat and Cristalleries de Saint-Louis for their fragrance bottles. In the same era, the company sought to produce high-quality packaging and innovative product designs, laying the groundwork for Bourjois' continued success.

The Pharmaceutical Era, 1924:

"Bourjois & Co. The American woman of 1850 found no difficulty choosing a French face powder or perfume. In those days the offerings of Paris were few in number, but of enviable fame. Perfumes and powders were imported to the United States 'by request' Americans traveling in France, having once used them, found them indispensable. And among the importations of that day was Java, the face powder of the Paris house of Bourjois. Bourjois & Co. records class them as the oldest producers of face powders in the world. Java powder is still one of the leading staples of the firm and on its merits largely have been built the reputation of the house Bourjois & Co. was founded by A Bourjois. The present heads of the company are Paul and Pierre Wertheimer. The factory is in Pantin, a Paris suburb. In addition to the powder and rouge lines for which the house is most widely known, they put out several popular perfumes. Ashes of Roses is one of the best known of the house's products. This includes a complete line down to sachet powders and lip sticks. Among the spring novelties are the leatherette pocket cases for powders. Manon Lescaut talcum powder in a new metal container, and three new shades of rouge - currant, rose, velvet of peaches and coral rose. BM Douglas is manager of the American branch."

 

In 1940, during the intense bombing raids of World War II, the Luftwaffe began targeting key areas in London, with the Croydon airfield and the surrounding factories being prime locations. Among the facilities struck was the Bourjois perfume factory. As British Hurricane fighter jets engaged the enemy bombers, two German Messerschmitt planes crashed into the heavily populated suburbs, exacerbating the devastation. Paul Douglas, vice president of Bourjois, Inc. at the time, confirmed that one of the company’s British factories had been destroyed in the attack.

Following the bombing, the British Bourjois factory was partially converted for war production. It began manufacturing shaving soap, which was supplied to the British Army. Rather than producing the soap from scratch, the factory purchased pre-made soap bases, which were then infused with fragrance, pressed into cakes, packaged, and sold under the Bourjois brand. Despite the shift in production, the factory continued to produce some of its beloved perfumes, including the iconic Evening in Paris, along with Ashes of Roses, Kobako, and Mais Oui.

The tragic bombing raid, however, claimed a heavy toll. Due to a delay in air raid sirens, workers on the night shift at Bourjois and nearby factories were caught off guard. As a result, 60 people lost their lives, and 180 others were injured. The sirens, which were meant to warn of the impending attack, rang out only 17 minutes after the first bombs had fallen. Along with the destruction caused by the plane crashes, six incendiary bombs severely gutted the soap and perfume factory. Whether the Luftwaffe knew Bourjois was involved in wartime production or not, the factory building was left in ruins and required extensive rebuilding. The floral scents that permeated from the demolished factory lingered in the air for days, leaving an indelible mark on the town of Croydon.

In the aftermath, rumors swirled for years that the wreckage of one of the German airplanes was still trapped within the factory walls. Bourjois, which had become part of the Chanel empire, later confirmed that the rumor was true but insisted that the remains of the aircraft were never to be publicly viewed. According to the company, removing the aircraft would have posed a risk to the structural integrity of the factory. The Bourjois factory was ultimately rebuilt and reopened in 1948, continuing its legacy despite the hardships of war.

The photo below shows the rebuilt Bourjois factory (in the center) in 1949, colorized by me.

During its existence until 1974, when the US plant was closed, Bourjois introduced 124 different fragrances, including four used only in bath oil and soap products, one used in a children's product line, and seven introduced by a subsidiary company, Woodworth of Rochester.


The most successful line was Soir de Paris (Evening In Paris) which debuted in 1928. You might find a perfume bottle by Gilot, named Soir de Paris, this is not a typo, this perfume-cosmetics line was trademarked in 1925, prior to Bourjois.

After the war, Bourjois' fragrance line continued to thrive, introducing a wide range of perfumes, cosmetics, and personal care products. The company developed a reputation for innovation in packaging and formulations, with iconic products like the Coup de Theatre mascara and the Suivez mon Regard loose powder eyeshadow. These products showcased Bourjois' commitment to creating high-quality, cutting-edge beauty items.

Bourjois has continued to be a key player in the cosmetics industry, maintaining a focus on color, quality, and joie de vivre. Today, the brand is known for its wide range of vibrant colors and products that cater to every mood, occasion, and personality. Bourjois continues to stay true to its Parisian roots, working with color experts to update its offerings according to seasonal and fashion trends. Manufactured in France, Bourjois products are held to the highest standards of quality, ensuring their continued popularity in the global market.

From its humble beginnings in a small Parisian shop to becoming a renowned international beauty brand, Bourjois' history is one of innovation, resilience, and a commitment to excellence in the world of cosmetics and fragrance.