Glamour by Bourjois c1953

Launched in 1953, Glamour by Bourjois arrived at the height of post-war optimism and a burgeoning cultural fascination with sophistication and style. The early 1950s were marked by a return to elegance after the austerity of World War II. Christian Dior had revolutionized fashion with his "New Look" in 1947, emphasizing femininity with cinched waists, full skirts, and luxurious fabrics. Hollywood icons like Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly, and Marilyn Monroe became global symbols of beauty, charm, and poise. Against this backdrop, Bourjois chose the name "Glamour" to evoke a sense of enchantment and allure that perfectly complemented the era’s cultural ideals.

The word "Glamour" originates from Old Scots, where it referred to a magical or spellbinding quality. By the mid-20th century, it had evolved to signify a captivating charm, elegance, or beauty, often associated with celebrities and the allure of high society. Pronounced “GLAM-er", the word conjures visions of shimmering gowns, glittering jewels, and the magnetic confidence of a woman who commands attention without effort. Women in the 1950s would have been drawn to a perfume named Glamour, imagining it as the invisible accessory that could elevate their presence, much like a favorite lipstick or a well-tailored dress.

In scent, Glamour captures this sense of sophistication and allure through its meticulous composition. The aldehydic opening offers a sparkling freshness, akin to sunlight dancing on crystal. Green and fruity top notes introduce a lively vibrancy, while the green floral heart provides a natural elegance, evoking images of lush gardens and fresh bouquets. These elements flow seamlessly into a mossy, balsamic, and woody chypre base, which grounds the fragrance with depth and warmth. This final accord evokes the sun-soaked hills of Provence, a place of understated beauty and timeless charm.

Flamme by Bourjois c1932

Flamme by Bourjois, launched in 1932, carries a name that captures the essence of its allure and vibrancy. The word "Flamme," pronounced "flahm", is French for "flame." This evocative name conjures imagery of glowing embers, passionate intensity, and radiant warmth. Symbolically, it represents light, life, and the enduring spark of elegance and desire. In the context of perfumery, "Flamme" suggests a fragrance that ignites the senses, smoldering with captivating allure while maintaining a flickering freshness.

Bourjois, a brand celebrated for its accessibility and flair, likely chose the name "Flamme" to resonate with women embracing the bold optimism and modernity of the early 1930s. The name embodies sophistication and confidence, aligning with a woman who is both a trendsetter and a romantic. It evokes emotions of passion, vitality, and intrigue, qualities that resonated deeply during a time of social transformation and glamour.

A fragrance called "Flamme" naturally invites an olfactory journey reflecting its fiery name. The dominant geranium note provides a fresh, rosy sharpness with subtle minty undertones, evoking the brightness and intensity of a flame. As a fresh floral oriental, the composition would have paired crisp florals like jasmine and rose with spicy, resinous, and warm base notes such as amber, vanilla, and patchouli. This juxtaposition of freshness and warmth mirrors the dynamic nature of a flame—ever-changing yet mesmerizing.

Beau Belle by Bourjois c1949

 Launched in 1949 by Bourjois, Beau Belle captured the optimism and glamour of the post-war era. The name, derived from French, translates to "Beautiful Beauty" (boh bel), a phrase as poetic as it is simple. The repetition of "beauty" emphasizes charm and allure, reflecting the elegance Bourjois sought to evoke with this creation. The name resonates with femininity and sophistication, promising women a fragrance that would enhance their grace and allure.

The words "Beau Belle" conjure vivid imagery of classic Parisian beauty: a woman in a cinched-waist dress strolling through the bustling streets of post-war Paris, her confidence radiant and her laughter contagious. This was a time when women were reclaiming their femininity and joy after years of austerity, and a perfume named Beau Belle would have appealed to their desire for elegance, optimism, and a touch of romance. Its name evokes feelings of pride, self-assurance, and timeless charm.

Women in the late 1940s, stepping into a world reborn with color and creativity, would have found Beau Belle both modern and aspirational. The post-war period marked a resurgence of glamour, seen in Dior’s "New Look" of 1947 and the golden age of Hollywood. Perfumes during this time mirrored this trend, embracing bold compositions and luxurious presentations. In this context, Beau Belle offered a vibrant interpretation of beauty, combining a rich, multifaceted composition with a name that reflected its wearer’s elegance and poise.

Courage by Bourjois c1939

Courage, launched by Bourjois in 1939, was a fragrance that exuded confidence and defiance, particularly resonating with the changing cultural landscape of the late 1930s. The name "Courage" comes from the French word meaning "bravery" or "fortitude," pronounced as "koo-rahzh." This word would have evoked a sense of strength and audacity during a time of increasing global uncertainty, as the world stood on the brink of war. For women in the late 1930s, Courage was not just a fragrance but a statement—symbolizing resilience, empowerment, and a refusal to be diminished by the tumultuous times they were facing.

During this period, just before World War II, many women were seeking ways to express their independence, resilience, and inner strength, and Courage provided them with a way to wear these emotions on their skin. The perfume’s bold name and its dynamic composition—a spicy floral blend dominated by the warm, spicy note of carnation—reflected the very qualities it aimed to evoke. The fragrance was designed to be an audacious and youthful expression of the modern woman, a symbol of bravery and defiance against the backdrop of a world in turmoil. The fragrance would have resonated with women who were navigating uncertainty and social change, offering them a sense of empowerment in the face of adversity.

Clin d'Oeil by Bourjois c1984

 Launched in 1984, Clin d’Oeil by Bourjois emerged as a lively and engaging fragrance, created by renowned perfumers François Demachy and Jacques Polge. The name "Clin d’Oeil," which is French for "wink," captures a sense of flirtation, mischief, and charm. Pronounced as “klahn duh-yuh,” this phrase evokes an image of someone making a quick, playful gesture—a subtle yet deliberate act of acknowledgment or allure.

For women in the mid-1980s, the name "Clin d’Oeil" resonated with the playful confidence and bold individuality that defined the era. It suggested an effortless way to express one's personality, perhaps with a hint of mystery or cheeky fun. The phrase "wink" is universally understood as both an action and a metaphor, symbolizing charm, spontaneity, and sometimes, a secret shared between two people. As a name for a perfume, it conjures images of a woman exuding effortless charisma and leaving an indelible impression, much like the fleeting nature of a wink itself.

Interpreted as a scent, "Clin d’Oeil" could be imagined as light, sparkling, and bright—a burst of energy that doesn't overwhelm but leaves a memorable trail. The fragrance, classified as fresh, green, fruity, and floral, would embody this playful elegance. The green and fruity notes hint at vitality and youthful exuberance, while the floral heart provides an air of femininity and sophistication. Together, they evoke the spirit of a woman who can balance playful allure with refined grace.

Kobako by Bourjois c1936

Launched in 1936, Kobako by Bourjois is a perfume that stands out not only for its unique fragrance but also for its intriguing name. The term "Kobako" is derived from Japanese, where it translates to "perfume-box" or "scented box," and it refers to a lacquer or porcelain box used for storing incense. Pronounced as "koh-BAH-koh," the word evokes images of delicate craftsmanship, refined elegance, and a sensory experience tied to both fragrance and cultural symbolism. The association with a "perfume-box" suggests a treasured, almost sacred container for rare and precious scents, resonating with ideas of beauty and ritual. For women of the 1930s, particularly those attuned to global influences and trends, a name like Kobako would have conjured images of exoticism, luxury, and sophistication, drawing on the allure of Eastern traditions and the mystique of Far Eastern arts and culture.

The word "Kobako" in relation to scent would evoke a sense of deep, enveloping luxury. It conjures a perfume that is as much about the presentation and atmosphere as it is about the fragrance itself—a scent that would be housed in something as precious and alluring as a lacquered box. The perfume might be imagined as contained within a beautiful object, promising a fragrance that would linger and resonate, much like the incense stored in those precious boxes. In scent, it speaks to a luxurious, almost ritualistic experience, drawing upon the Eastern idea of treasured, often mystically rich scents held in reverence.

Kobako was created by renowned perfumer Ernest Beaux, with assistance from Constantin Mikhailovich "Kot" Weriguine, and it is classified as a warm leathery floral chypre fragrance for women. It is described as "heady," with rare wood species and jasmine as the dominant notes, providing a rich, sensual, and somewhat exotic olfactory experience. The fragrance is noted for its ability to hold better in fabrics and furs, positioning it as a perfume for brunettes of an exotic type—suggesting a scent that is both deep and striking, perhaps better suited to those with darker hair and a bold, sophisticated personality. The warm, woody, and floral elements would have made it a perfume that lingered on the skin and in the mind, creating an aura of mystery and sensuality.

Evening in Paris 1944 Advertisements

Evening in Paris perfume presentations and gift sets shown in a 1944 advertisement.