Courage by Bourjois c1939

Courage, launched by Bourjois in 1939, was a fragrance that exuded confidence and defiance, particularly resonating with the changing cultural landscape of the late 1930s. The name "Courage" comes from the French word meaning "bravery" or "fortitude," pronounced as "koo-rahzh." This word would have evoked a sense of strength and audacity during a time of increasing global uncertainty, as the world stood on the brink of war. For women in the late 1930s, Courage was not just a fragrance but a statement—symbolizing resilience, empowerment, and a refusal to be diminished by the tumultuous times they were facing.

During this period, just before World War II, many women were seeking ways to express their independence, resilience, and inner strength, and Courage provided them with a way to wear these emotions on their skin. The perfume’s bold name and its dynamic composition—a spicy floral blend dominated by the warm, spicy note of carnation—reflected the very qualities it aimed to evoke. The fragrance was designed to be an audacious and youthful expression of the modern woman, a symbol of bravery and defiance against the backdrop of a world in turmoil. The fragrance would have resonated with women who were navigating uncertainty and social change, offering them a sense of empowerment in the face of adversity.

The description by Bourjois, calling it "dashing, forthright, audacious, and gay as youth itself," aligns perfectly with the spirit of the era—women at this time were increasingly adopting more liberated roles in society, empowered by their ability to participate more fully in the workforce, politics, and public life. Courage was a fragrance that flattered in a "devil-may-care" manner, offering women a scent that was daring and irresistible—just as they were expected to be. It was the embodiment of youthful exuberance, encapsulated in the spicy warmth of carnations blended with a vibrant array of supporting floral notes.

A 1942 newspaper ad mentioned that "Bourjois has created this scintillating fragrance, Courage to reflect the bravery of the American woman today, to add femininity to her busy days."

In this context, the fragrance was more than just a smell—it was an extension of the woman who wore it, a woman who was not afraid to stand tall in the face of whatever challenges might lie ahead. Courage was a perfect match for a time when bravery and audacity were needed not just in the world at large, but within the hearts and minds of women themselves. The perfume's spicy, captivating overtones and modern allure made it a reflection of the energy and resilience of youth, encapsulated in an unforgettable fragrance.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a spicy floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: aldehydes, cassie, rose geranium, clove, neroli, pimento, cinnamon, Paraguay petitgrain
• Middle notes: orange blossom, rose, carnation, tuberose, jonquil, jasmine, orris, ylang ylang
• Base notes: vanilla, styrax, tolu balsam, musk, benzoin, patchouli, Mysore sandalwood, civet, ambergris

Harper's Bazaar, 1942:

"A new wedding dress, still of shining satin but short and in pale gray. A new perfume, by Bourjois, high spirited as a breath of clean spicy air. It is the very smell of courage and "Courage" is its name."

Motion Picture, 1942:

" DASHINGLY DARING is Bourjois' new perfume. Courage - (pronounced Koo-raj) is a fragrance attuned to the times. There's a size to meet every purse too — flacons range from $1 up."

The New Yorker, 1943:

"Bourjois: A comparatively new perfume called Courage, with a spicy, carnation like tang."

Scent Profile:

Courage opens with an electrifying burst of aldehydes that feel like a cool breeze, instantly refreshing and vibrant. The aldehydic top note brings a slightly soapy yet crisp sensation, filling the air with its sharpness, like the first inhale of fresh, clean air on a spring morning. Beneath that, a warm, powdery whisper of rose geranium and cassie blooms, their delicate, slightly herbaceous green floral notes blending effortlessly. The scent of geranium evokes the image of an old garden full of summer flowers, its leaves almost tinged with the earthiness of a faint spice. 

Then, clove, cinnamon, and pimento add a fiery, spicy edge, tingling with a warm, piquant heat that dances playfully on the skin. Neroli and petitgrain round out the mix with their floral citrus undertones—neroli’s sweet, slightly bitter fragrance mingling with the soft, green freshness of petitgrain, creating an overall impression of spirited brightness.

As the fragrance settles, the heart notes emerge—a rich and opulent blend of florals that feel both soft and intensely aromatic. Orange blossom, delicate and sweet, unfurls like the first rays of sunlight breaking through a morning mist. It brings with it an ethereal, dewy freshness, almost like an early spring morning in bloom. 

The carnation note is deeply spicy and slightly powdery, its clove-like warmth intertwining with the creamy floral notes of rose and tuberose. The tuberose’s heady, intoxicating sweetness envelops the senses, while jonquil and jasmine add a green, almost dewy quality to the floral bouquet. Jasmine’s warm, honeyed complexity fuses beautifully with the elegant smoothness of orris, which lends a refined, powdery softness—evoking the luxury of fine old perfumes. Ylang ylang provides an exotic twist with its rich, heady scent, balancing the other florals with its voluptuous, slightly fruity undertone.

In the base, Courage evolves into a sultry, sensual warmth. Vanilla, deep and sweet, creates a smooth, creamy foundation that feels both comforting and enveloping. Styrax and tolu balsam contribute a rich, resinous sweetness, evoking the warmth of a golden, amber-lit room on a cold evening. The musk and civet add an animalic richness, their sensual depth adding mystery and allure to the fragrance. 

Patchouli and sandalwood ground the composition, their earthy, woody notes bringing a sense of solid warmth, like the comforting embrace of an old, weathered leather chair. Benzoin and ambergris amplify the depth of the fragrance, infusing it with a smoky sweetness that lingers long after the scent has faded, leaving a trail of warmth and sensuality behind. Together, these base notes create a deep, enveloping finish that exudes strength, resilience, and undeniable allure—an echo of the fragrance’s name, Courage, perfectly embodied in scent.

Bottles:

Courage was housed in clear glass bottles and fitted with blue glass stoppers.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Courage by Bourjois was launched in 1939, just as the world was on the brink of monumental change. The timing of its release coincided with the onset of the Second World War, a period that would profoundly disrupt daily life, including the fragrance industry. The global conflict would have affected the production and distribution of luxury goods, including perfumes, as raw materials became scarce and international trade routes were severely interrupted. While Courage had an initially strong presence, its availability would have likely been affected by wartime shortages, as the demand for non-essential goods dwindled in favor of more urgent needs.

Despite these challenges, Courage was still being sold in 1946, just after the end of the war. By this time, the fragrance would have symbolized a return to normalcy, and its spicy, floral notes could have been seen as a daring and uplifting choice for women emerging from the hardships of war. The vibrant, audacious character of the perfume—described as dashing, forthright, and modern—may have provided a sense of escapism and confidence during a time when people were rebuilding their lives. However, it is likely that by the late 1940s, Courage was eventually discontinued, as trends and preferences in fragrance shifted, and the post-war perfume market began to embrace different styles, eventually phasing out older scents. The exact date of discontinuation remains unknown, but the perfume's legacy likely lived on in the memories of those who wore it during its brief but impactful presence in the market.