On the Wind by Bourjois c1956

Launched in 1956, On the Wind by Bourjois was part of a trio of summer colognes, including Frosty Mist and Spice 'N Ice. The name On the Wind conjures a poetic sense of freedom, lightness, and motion. It evokes images of a soft summer breeze carrying the fresh scent of flowers and distant shores. The phrase suggests a fleeting yet invigorating experience, something intangible yet deeply refreshing—qualities perfectly suited for a summer cologne. It embodies the idea of escaping the heat, embracing nature, and finding respite in something ethereal and delicate.

The mid-1950s, when On the Wind was introduced, marked the height of postwar optimism and prosperity. Known as the era of the "New Look" in fashion, popularized by Christian Dior in 1947, women were embracing feminine silhouettes characterized by cinched waists, voluminous skirts, and soft, elegant fabrics. Trends of the time reflected a return to luxury, leisure, and glamour after years of austerity during World War II. There was a palpable sense of hope, exploration, and modernity, with society leaning into travel, outdoor leisure, and the burgeoning middle-class lifestyle. Summer vacations, picnics, and weekends at the beach became integral to postwar life, providing the perfect context for lightweight and refreshing seasonal fragrances like On the Wind.

For women of the 1950s, a perfume called On the Wind would have been more than a fragrance; it would symbolize the allure of summer freedom and a connection to nature. The name itself would evoke romantic, whimsical images—a gentle breeze fluttering through open fields, carrying the crisp, cool aroma of blooming flowers, or perhaps a serene moment by the seaside with the wind lifting the salty air. This emotional connection to summer escapes would have been especially appealing to women enjoying a newfound sense of leisure and independence. On the Wind represented a modern, carefree femininity, offering an alternative to the heavier, opulent perfumes often worn during other seasons.

Created by the esteemed perfumer Constantin Mikhailovich “Kot” Weriguine, On the Wind was classified as a cool, crisp floral fragrance designed specifically for summer wear. At a time when many fragrances leaned toward headier compositions—orientals, aldehydic florals, and warm chypres—a cool floral stood out as refreshing and seasonally appropriate. Its light, breezy nature aligned with the growing trend toward colognes and lighter eaux de toilette, particularly for warmer months. The inclusion of On the Wind in a summer-focused line shows Bourjois’s awareness of shifting consumer preferences, as women sought more versatile fragrances to complement their lifestyles.

In the context of the 1950s fragrance market, On the Wind combined familiarity with innovation. While floral perfumes were a dominant trend, Bourjois’s interpretation offered a cooler, more delicate variation that aligned with summer sensibilities. Alongside its sister colognes—Frosty Mist and Spice 'N Ice—it provided women with a playful yet sophisticated way to embrace seasonal perfumery. This line highlighted the evolving desire for fresh, airy scents that could capture the essence of leisure and escape during the golden age of summer living.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a cool, crisp floral fragrance for women, meant to be worn during the summer months. Described as the "gentle wildflower scent."

• Top notes: aldehydes, mint, lemon, lavender, galbanum, violet leaf
• Middle notes: ylang ylang, iris, lily, jasmine, lily of the valley, hyacinth
• Base notes: tonka bean, vanilla, sandalwood, oakmoss, vetiver, musk, orris

Scent Profile:

On the Wind by Bourjois unfolds like a breath of summer air—fresh, crisp, and fleeting, yet deeply evocative. The first impression is an invigorating burst of aldehydes, cool and effervescent, like the fizz of sparkling water under the summer sun. There’s a clean, almost soapy brightness that sets the stage, mingling with the unmistakable sharpness of mint. The mint feels dewy and refreshing, like plucking a green sprig straight from the garden, its cool aroma mingling with zesty lemon. The lemon adds a sunlit sparkle—its tart, citrusy essence brings an immediate sense of energy, as if the first rays of light are breaking through a clear morning sky. 

Beneath this brightness lies the calm serenity of lavender. Its soft, herbaceous undertones balance the sharp top notes, adding a soothing, almost meditative quality. The inclusion of galbanum adds an earthy greenness, resinous yet fresh, reminiscent of crushed leaves releasing their natural, slightly bitter aroma. Violet leaf completes the opening with its subtle, aqueous greenness—a whisper of dew-laden foliage, cool to the touch.

As the scent warms on the skin, the heart of On the Wind begins to bloom with a harmony of florals. Ylang-ylang is the first to emerge, its sweet, creamy essence offering a tropical richness, almost like sunlight filtering through velvety petals. It is tempered by the powdery, elegant note of iris, which lends a quiet sophistication—a silky, soft coolness that feels refined and timeless. Lily steps in, delicate and luminous, its petals unfurling to reveal a faintly waxy sweetness that complements the brighter jasmine. 

The jasmine is radiant, lending a soft opulence to the bouquet without overpowering. Its white floral scent carries a hint of warmth and indolic richness, like a distant garden catching a summer breeze. Lily of the valley introduces a gentle, green freshness, like the scent of small, bell-shaped flowers hidden in the shade of a mossy forest floor. The hyacinth adds a subtle vibrancy—its green, floral sweetness tinged with a dewy, spring-like clarity—lifting the entire heart of the fragrance into a delicate symphony of florals. Together, the middle notes capture a moment of ephemeral beauty, like walking through a sun-dappled garden on a cool summer morning.

The base of On the Wind settles into a soft, comforting embrace. Tonka bean lends a smooth, sweet warmth, its aroma reminiscent of freshly cut hay with hints of vanilla and almonds. The vanilla itself is soft and creamy, without being overly sweet—a tender note that feels like a gentle touch on the skin. Sandalwood brings a creamy, woody depth, its smoothness grounding the florals and adding a sense of quiet elegance. 

Oakmoss adds an earthy, forest-like greenness, slightly damp and rich, evoking the cool stillness of shaded woods. Vetiver reinforces this natural quality, its smoky, grassy facets adding a slight ruggedness that contrasts beautifully with the softness of the other notes. Musk lingers like a second skin, clean and intimate, wrapping the entire fragrance in a sensual, barely-there veil. Finally, the orris root adds a powdery, almost suede-like texture—a touch of luxury that feels both comforting and ethereal.

In On the Wind, every note contributes to a fragrance that feels alive and dynamic, like nature itself. The crisp top notes evoke a fresh breeze that carries the promise of a bright summer day, while the floral heart blooms with soft elegance, full of life and color. The base notes anchor the fragrance, offering a cool, earthy depth, like the stillness of twilight after the warmth of the day. Together, this cool, crisp floral composition is a celebration of summer’s fleeting beauty, a reminder of lightness, freedom, and nature’s quiet wonders.

Product Line:

On the Wind by Bourjois was thoughtfully crafted to suit the varied needs of women who sought versatility and elegance in their fragrance rituals. The perfume, or parfum, represented the most luxurious and concentrated form of the fragrance. Housed in a small, precious bottle, the parfum offered an intense, long-lasting experience, with each drop revealing the fragrance’s rich complexity. The cool aldehydic top notes would linger delicately, while the floral heart unfolded slowly, creating a more intimate, enveloping aura. Women who preferred the parfum likely wore it for special occasions or in the evenings, when the richer concentration could settle beautifully on the skin and leave a lasting impression.

The spray cologne introduced a more modern, convenient option for the woman on the go. With its fine mist application, it allowed for a lighter, more diffuse experience of On the Wind, ideal for daytime wear. The crisp, refreshing top notes would burst forth with energy, perfect for a summer morning or an afternoon spent outdoors. The portability of the spray made it easy to reapply throughout the day, ensuring the wearer felt refreshed and elegantly scented at any moment. This format aligned perfectly with the mid-1950s shift toward practicality and leisure—women could carry the essence of summer wherever they went.

The splash cologne was a celebration of simplicity and tradition. Bottled in larger flacons, it invited women to experience On the Wind with a more generous, tactile ritual. Splashing the cologne onto the skin or lightly dabbing it on pulse points allowed the fragrance to feel airy and invigorating, like a cool breeze on a warm day. It was well-suited for post-bathing rituals, enhancing the feeling of freshness and relaxation. Splash colognes also invited layering, whether over body creams or with other summer toiletries, making them a staple in women’s vanities during the warmer months. The lighter concentration ensured it was never overpowering, staying true to the fragrance’s breezy, ephemeral nature.

The dusting powder offered an indulgent, yet practical, way to experience On the Wind. Soft, finely milled, and delicately scented, the powder would have been a summer luxury, perfect for keeping skin cool and dry during hot days. It was likely applied with a plush puff, leaving a silky finish on the skin while imparting a gentle veil of fragrance. The dusting powder was particularly suited to women who desired a subtle, understated version of On the Wind, lingering faintly as a whisper of freshness. It evoked a sense of elegance and pampering, aligning with the mid-century ideal of feminine grooming and beauty rituals.

Together, these formats made On the Wind not just a perfume, but a complete olfactory experience. Whether a woman reached for the intense parfum, the convenient spray cologne, the refreshing splash, or the soft dusting powder, she could tailor the fragrance to suit her mood, her lifestyle, and the season. Each form captured a different facet of the scent, ensuring On the Wind remained an essential part of her summer beauty routine.

Fate of the Fragrance:

On the Wind by Bourjois, launched in 1956, entered the market during a time of post-war optimism and growing consumer confidence. Its fresh, cool, and crisp floral character captured the spirit of the 1950s, an era defined by renewal, modernity, and a desire for light, effortless beauty. The fragrance was perfectly suited to the needs of women embracing the changing pace of life—whether managing domestic roles or stepping into expanding careers. Its breezy, uplifting composition spoke to freedom, elegance, and the natural ease that women of the time craved, particularly in the summer months.

Despite being discontinued, On the Wind enjoyed remarkable longevity, still being sold in 1977, a testament to its enduring appeal. Over two decades, it transitioned through shifting trends, resonating with women across generations. The 1960s ushered in an era of youthful energy and cultural upheaval, and while bold, experimental fragrances emerged during this period, On the Wind retained its niche appeal as a timeless, refreshing summer scent. Its crisp aldehydic opening, verdant heart, and comforting base offered an alternative to the increasingly complex perfumes of the time. Women who wore On the Wind likely appreciated its refined simplicity and its ability to evoke carefree summer days—a familiar anchor in an era of change.

By 1977, the fragrance market was moving toward richer, more assertive compositions influenced by the opulence of the late 1970s. Despite this, On the Wind remained on shelves, its presence representing a nostalgic link to a bygone era of subtle femininity and restrained elegance. Its continued availability highlighted its enduring charm—a fragrance that still appealed to women who sought a cooler, fresher option amidst the rising popularity of warmer, spicier perfumes. Even as trends shifted, On the Wind carried a sense of timeless sophistication, evoking memories of sunlit mornings, soft breezes, and the gentle rhythm of summer.

Its eventual disappearance marked the end of an era, but its legacy lingers among those who remember its delicate, airy beauty—a fragrance that embodied a moment in time when simplicity and lightness were treasured. For those who experienced it, On the Wind remains a nostalgic reminder of the elegance and optimism of mid-20th-century perfumery.