Evening in Paris, originally launched as Soir de Paris in 1928 in France, was a fragrance that instantly captured the essence of the French capital's romantic allure and timeless elegance. The name Soir de Paris translates from French to "Evening of Paris" or "Paris Evening." Pronounced as "Swahr duh Pah-ree," the name conjures vivid imagery of the city at twilight—when the streets are bathed in the soft glow of lamplights, the air is filled with the scent of fresh blooms, and the atmosphere is alive with possibility. It evokes feelings of romance, sophistication, and the captivating magic of Paris after dark. The name speaks to the heart of the Roaring Twenties in Paris, a time when the city was at the forefront of cultural and artistic innovation. It reflects the exuberance and charm of the era, when Paris was the symbol of freedom, fashion, and glamour, and the scent captured this exuberant spirit.
In 1929, the perfume was rebranded as Evening in Paris for the U.S. market, likely to appeal to American sensibilities while still retaining the Parisian glamour at its core. The choice of the name for the American release was strategic, leaning into the allure of Paris as a destination synonymous with romance and sophistication. For women of the time, particularly in the late 1920s, Soir de Paris would have seemed like an invitation to a world of opulence, mystery, and elegance—just as the city of Paris itself was considered the epicenter of high society, fashion, and culture. The fragrance's name would have resonated deeply with women who sought to capture that same Parisian allure in their daily lives.
The time period during which Soir de Paris was introduced was one of immense cultural change. The Roaring Twenties—or Les Années Folles as they were known in France—was a period marked by liberation, social upheaval, and a flourishing of art and culture. Women were embracing newfound freedoms, including the right to vote and a shift toward more relaxed, modern styles. Fashion was dominated by shorter hemlines, bobbed haircuts, and a more practical, yet glamorous, aesthetic. The rise of jazz and the avant-garde in the arts mirrored a shift in social norms and attitudes. The fragrance itself, created by Ernest Beaux with assistance from Constantin Mikhailovich “Kot” Weriguine, mirrored the lively, sparkling energy of the time while providing a touch of sophistication and softness that was very much in tune with the tastes of the Flapper generation.
As a fragrance, Soir de Paris is classified as a sweet, aldehydic floral—an alluring blend that was part of the broader trend of aldehydic perfumes that defined the late 1920s and early 1930s. The aldehyde note, which gives the fragrance a soapy, fresh quality, was a hallmark of the period’s most popular scents, including the iconic Chanel No. 5. In Soir de Paris, the aldehydic opening creates an elegant, cool, and almost sparkling sensation, evoking the crispness of evening air in Paris. The green, floral top notes provide a refreshing, verdant quality, while the heart reveals a more complex blend of sweet and spicy florals—jasmine, rose, and ylang-ylang—which add warmth and sensuality to the scent, invoking images of romantic evenings spent in the glow of Parisian cafés and moonlit promenades along the Seine. The fragrance then deepens into a soft, powdery base, with notes of iris and vanilla that provide a comforting, elegant finish, reminiscent of a velvet gown or a luxurious Parisian evening dress.
When placed within the context of other fragrances available during the same time period, Soir de Paris fits within the broader trend of sweet, aldehydic floral fragrances. However, it distinguishes itself with a more playful, youthful edge—capturing the zest and spirit of a Parisian evening while maintaining the elegance and sophistication expected from a fragrance born in the heart of Paris. While not radically different from other perfumes in the aldehydic floral category, it brought a certain lightness and modernity that made it immediately appealing to women of the time who were beginning to embrace a more liberated, fun, and fashionable way of living.
For women of the 1920s, Soir de Paris was more than just a perfume; it was a symbol of sophistication, romance, and the excitement of the modern era. It was a way to carry a piece of Parisian glamour with them, whether they were attending a glamorous soirée or enjoying a quiet evening with a loved one. The fragrance evoked the imagery of a city alive with the energy of the Jazz Age, of Parisian lights twinkling in the distance, and of a time when elegance and fun could coexist in perfect harmony. For those who wore Soir de Paris, it was a sensory invitation to experience the magic and allure of Parisian nights—capturing the essence of a golden age that would never be forgotten.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does the original smell like? It is classified as a sweet aldehydic floral fragrance for women. It starts off with a cool, green aldehydic floral top, followed by a sweet and spicy floral heart, layered over a warm powdery base.
- Top notes: aldehydes, orange blossom, violet, bergamot, estragon, cyclamen
- Heart notes: ylang ylang, linden blossom, clover, lilac, rose de mai, jasmine, lily of the valley, orris, carnation, wallflower
- Base notes: vanilla, Mysore sandalwood, myrrh, vetiver, styrax, amber, incense, musk, benzoin, heliotrope
Marie-Claire, 1937:
Soir de Paris by Bourjois: Dry and penetrating, with a dominant note of jasmine and oakmoss. It sits beautifully on the skin, enhancing the wearer’s natural allure. Ideal for blondes and brunettes of chestnut hue, it embodies the elegance and charm of a refined woman—Madame Une Telle—gracing her surroundings with sophistication and grace.
Scent Profile:
The opening of Soir de Paris is a rush of cool, crisp aldehydes that create an immediate freshness, as though the air itself has been cleansed by a gentle breeze. The aldehydic sharpness is softened by the delicate, powdery sweetness of orange blossom, which breathes a subtle floral warmth into the composition.
Violet adds a cool, green touch, with its soft, leafy sweetness reminiscent of a garden at dawn, while the bergamot introduces a hint of citrus zest—bright and refreshing. Estragon, with its slightly herbal and spicy nuances, dances playfully alongside the green notes, while the cyclamen adds an aquatic, almost watery freshness, evoking the crispness of morning dew on petals.
As the fragrance evolves, the heart unfolds into a lush, sweetly spicy floral bouquet. Ylang-ylang brings its opulent, heady sweetness, with a rich, creamy texture that swirls around the other notes, while the linden blossom contributes a honeyed floralcy that feels comforting and soft. Clover and lilac add a powdery, green softness, their aromas blending effortlessly with the rose de mai, whose velvety, rich scent evokes the perfect summer bloom.
Jasmine adds depth with its intoxicating, warm floral scent, alongside the delicate lily of the valley, which offers a fresh, clean contrast to the headier florals. Orris, with its soft, almost violet-like powderiness, brings sophistication, while carnation adds a clove-spiced heat, a subtle contrast to the airy floral elements. Wallflower, with its slightly spicy, sweet-scented notes, rounds out the bouquet, adding complexity and richness.
The base of Soir de Paris is where the fragrance truly settles into its warmth and depth. Vanilla weaves its creamy, comforting sweetness, providing a soft, smooth foundation that balances the sharpness of the top and heart notes. Mysore sandalwood, with its creamy, woody richness, adds an elegant depth, its milky, slightly earthy scent grounding the composition.
Myrrh brings a resinous, slightly medicinal note, deepening the fragrance with its warm, spicy-sweet presence. Vetiver contributes a smoky, earthy quality, while styrax adds a balsamic sweetness, reminiscent of dark, rich woods. Amber enhances this warmth with its golden, resinous sweetness, blending seamlessly with the incense, which adds a subtle smokiness, evoking a sense of quiet contemplation.
Musk and benzoin infuse the fragrance with a soft, animalic warmth, while heliotrope brings its delicate, almond-like sweetness, rounding out the composition with a hint of powdery elegance. Together, these base notes create a deep, sensual, and comforting foundation that lingers on the skin long after the initial spritz, making Soir de Paris a fragrance that is both timeless and evocative.
Bottles:
Originally presented in a midnight blue hemispherical Art Deco flacon designed by Jean Helleu, and produced by Verreries Brosse.
The scent became Bourjois' most successful fragrance. By the 1950s, it was touted as "the fragrance more women wear than any other in the world," yet by 1969 it had disappeared from shelves.
The fragrance was available in parfum, eau de toilette and eau de cologne. You may also find dusting powder boxes, talc bottles, sachet bottles, soap, lipstick, bath cubes, hand lotion, perfumed bath oil, rouge, cologne sticks, compacts and face powder.
Evening in Paris was attractively packaged in gift boxes, some in the shape of stars, sailor's hat or a crescent moon. These special gift sets were often for sale around Christmas, Mother's Day and Easter.
c1943 ad
c1943 ad
1943 ad
Beetleware Cases and Presentations:
It is possible to find the various novelties for the perfume made up of "Beetleware." You might come across the lucky horseshoe, clam shell, turtle, hotel door, grand piano, shoe, egg, grandfather clock, champagne bucket, owl or very rarely the Eiffel Tower & Marble Arch presentations. The Marble Arch presentation was created for the Coronation of Queen Elizabeth II in 1953.
Beetleware was an early type of plastic formed from a urea formaldehyde powder developed in England by Streetly Manufacturing Co. and licensed to American Cyanamid, who introduced it into the US in 1929. These cases are erroneously touted as being made of "Bakelite,"but this is not the case. The chemical name for plastics like Beetleware is urea formaldehyde, and they differ from the phenol formaldehyde resin plastics such as Bakelite in that the raw material is an absolutely clear, colorless substance. Beetleware can be made in a variety of vivid colors such as red, white, green, blue, and these colors, unlike those of Bakelite, hold up even today without significant change to hue other than fading due to sunlight exposure. I have found the clamshells in pink, white, blue, green and red beetleware.
Lucky for us, these novelties were molded with their english registry numbers so we can pinpoint their date of manufacture:
- Grand Piano has registry number: 824784 for 1937.
- Clamshell has registry number: 810099 corresponding to 1936.
- Turtle has registry number: 818385 corresponding to 1937.
- Owl has registry number: 825003 corresponding to 1938.
- Hotel Door has registry number: 832419 corresponding to 1939.
- Toby jug has registry number: 834875 corresponding to 1939.
- Grandfather Clock has registry number: 837401 corresponding to 1940.
- Eiffel Tower has registry number: 859996 for 1949.
- Slipper has registry number: 866164 corresponding to 1952.
During the 1940s, there were wartime presentations and all packaging bore the following statement: "This is a temporary Victory package. The contents are unchanged."
The Fate of the Fragrance:
In 1967, the Bourjois fragrance house, known for its glamorous and iconic perfumes like Evening in Paris, was acquired by the powerful Wertheimer family. This same family, with their strategic investments and vision, went on to purchase the Chanel group in the late 1980s. As a result, Bourjois, once a standalone entity, became a part of the vast empire that was Chanel, a brand synonymous with luxury, elegance, and innovation. This acquisition marked a pivotal moment in Bourjois' history, as Chanel's renowned expertise in perfumery began to influence the direction of its classic fragrances.
Fast forward to 1992, when Chanel's leading perfumers undertook the task of reformulating Evening in Paris. The reformulation was a significant departure from the original composition, which had captivated the hearts of women worldwide since its debut in 1929. The new Evening in Paris was crafted with a modern sensibility, evolving from a somewhat sharp, aldehydic floral fragrance to a smoother, more approachable scent. The result was a fragrance that was sweet, creamy, and enveloping, with a slightly wood-based foundation that added depth and sophistication. The refined sweetness of the perfume softened the edges of the original's more piercing aldehydic notes, creating a more seamless and contemporary fragrance profile.
The newly formulated Evening in Paris was quickly embraced by fragrance lovers and earned the title of "The Most Popular Fragrance in the World." It became a global sensation, capturing the essence of timeless femininity in a way that was both nostalgic and forward-thinking. The fragrance continued to be adored for its elegant and inviting nature, with its smooth, velvety notes becoming synonymous with the art of fine French perfumery. Despite the passage of time, Evening in Paris remains a beloved scent, still available on the market today as a testament to both its enduring popularity and Chanel’s commitment to preserving the legacy of Bourjois’ most iconic creations.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does the reformulation smell like? It is classified as a soft, sweet floral fragrance for women.
- Top notes: aldehydes, violet, bergamot, peach
- Heart notes: heliotrope, tilleul, clover, lilac, Turkish rose, jasmine, iris
- Base notes: cedar, vetiver, styrax , amber, musk, sandalwood and vanilla
Scent Profile:
Evening in Paris is a delicate, yet captivating fragrance, and as you first encounter it, the top notes greet you with a fresh, almost sparkling airiness. The aldehydes, crisp and soapy, cut through the air like the first breath of a cool evening breeze. Their clean, almost metallic sharpness blends seamlessly with the violet, which blooms softly, lending a powdery sweetness that feels like a gentle kiss on the skin. The bergamot adds a bright, citrusy lift—zesty and tangy, it immediately invigorates the senses without overwhelming them. As the fragrance unfolds, the peach adds a tender, juicy warmth—a delicate sweetness that evokes the velvety skin of ripe fruit, soft and inviting.
As you move into the heart of Evening in Paris, the fragrance becomes more lush and rounded, with a soft, floral intensity that feels rich without being heavy. The heliotrope introduces a sweet, almost almond-like nuance, reminiscent of marzipan, its powdery sweetness combining beautifully with the lilac’s soft, floral undertones—light and airy, yet undeniably present. The tilleul, with its delicate, honeyed floral quality, adds an herbal warmth that’s both soothing and intoxicating.
A faintly spicy sweetness rises from the clover, its green, leafy freshness lifting the heart notes with a subtle crispness. The Turkish rose and jasmine mingle together, creating an elegant, slightly spicy floral core, their sensuality softening into a round, feminine bouquet. Iris deepens the heart with its earthy, soft, and slightly woody powderiness, evoking the image of an elegant garden at dusk.
The base of Evening in Paris is where the fragrance truly finds its depth, with warm, grounding notes that are both sensual and comforting. The cedar provides a clean, dry, woody undertone, its smoothness perfectly balanced by the earthiness of vetiver, which brings an air of sophistication and understated elegance. Styrax adds a smoky, balsamic sweetness that recalls the richness of resins, enveloping the fragrance in a soft, velvety warmth.
Amber adds a radiant glow, bringing the fragrance together with a rich, honeyed warmth that feels both luxurious and inviting. Musk ties everything together with its animalic, sensual quality, enveloping the wearer in a subtle, intimate embrace. Sandalwood adds a creamy, smooth undertone, balancing out the sweeter elements with its velvety, soft woodiness. Finally, vanilla lingers on the skin with its smooth, sweet warmth, rounding off the composition with a comforting, almost gourmand finish that feels like the perfect end to a long, romantic evening in the city of lights.
Bottles:
No comments:
Post a Comment