Flamme by Bourjois, launched in 1932, carries a name that captures the essence of its allure and vibrancy. The word "Flamme," pronounced "flahm", is French for "flame." This evocative name conjures imagery of glowing embers, passionate intensity, and radiant warmth. Symbolically, it represents light, life, and the enduring spark of elegance and desire. In the context of perfumery, "Flamme" suggests a fragrance that ignites the senses, smoldering with captivating allure while maintaining a flickering freshness.
Bourjois, a brand celebrated for its accessibility and flair, likely chose the name "Flamme" to resonate with women embracing the bold optimism and modernity of the early 1930s. The name embodies sophistication and confidence, aligning with a woman who is both a trendsetter and a romantic. It evokes emotions of passion, vitality, and intrigue, qualities that resonated deeply during a time of social transformation and glamour.
A fragrance called "Flamme" naturally invites an olfactory journey reflecting its fiery name. The dominant geranium note provides a fresh, rosy sharpness with subtle minty undertones, evoking the brightness and intensity of a flame. As a fresh floral oriental, the composition would have paired crisp florals like jasmine and rose with spicy, resinous, and warm base notes such as amber, vanilla, and patchouli. This juxtaposition of freshness and warmth mirrors the dynamic nature of a flame—ever-changing yet mesmerizing.
Women of the time would have found this scent empowering and distinctive. It would complement the bold, angular fashion of the Art Deco era while also offering a touch of approachable femininity. "Flamme" would likely have been viewed as a scent for an evening out—a declaration of confidence and allure.
Flamme emerged during a period when the perfume industry was flourishing with innovation and artistry. By the early 1930s, advances in synthetic chemistry allowed for the creation of intricate compositions that blended natural and synthetic materials seamlessly. Oriental fragrances, known for their exotic warmth and sensuality, were immensely popular, reflecting a fascination with faraway lands and a desire for escapism during the Great Depression. At the same time, fresh floral notes remained a staple, lending sophistication and refinement.
Flamme’s classification as a fresh floral oriental with a dominant geranium note allowed it to stand apart from purely floral or heavily ambery compositions. The inclusion of geranium, with its crisp and green facets, gave the fragrance a unique sharpness and elegance. While it aligned with broader trends favoring oriental complexity, Flamme’s balance of freshness and warmth made it distinctive, appealing to women seeking a modern yet timeless scent.
In essence, Flamme was not just a perfume; it was a reflection of its time—a blend of innovation, artistry, and the enduring allure of feminine passion and strength.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fresh floral oriental perfume with a dominant geranium note. It was described as "heady."
- Top notes: Reunion geranium, aldehydes, hyacinth, bergamot, lemon, galbanum, Paraguay petitgrain
- Middle notes: orange blossom, orris, jasmine, rose, ylang ylang, carnation, narcissus, clove, cinnamon
- Base notes: vanilla, tonka bean, patchouli, civet, labdanum, Mysore sandalwood, musk, oakmoss, cedar, ambergris
"Brilliant as the winter season..fascinating as a beautiful woman ..this glorious new bouquet fragrance is the perfect perfume for fashionables ....and the ideal gift for women who appreciate the chic of a stunning boxed bottle."
"Bourjois' Flamme perfume is a delightful bouquet of marvelously blended flower scents in an amusing geranium-trimmed bottle."
Drug & Cosmetic Industry, 1935:
"BOURJOIS is offering their new perfume, La Flamme, in a most attractive container. The round box is flowered, and the striking bottle rests on a base."
Scent Profile:
Flamme opens with a radiant burst of brightness that instantly commands attention. The dominant Reunion geranium takes center stage, its sharp, green, and slightly minty freshness setting the tone with a bold flourish. There’s an earthy rosiness beneath its brightness, grounded yet vibrant, like the dewy petals of a flower just before sunrise.
Aldehydes add a sparkling, soapy effervescence, elevating the opening with a crisp, modern flair, while bergamot and lemon lend their zesty, sun-drenched citrus energy. These are tempered by the herbaceous and resinous depth of galbanum, with its bittersweet verdancy reminiscent of crushed leaves. A whisper of petitgrain, soft and woody, underscores the freshness with a subtle warmth. Amidst this brightness, the gentle floral sweetness of hyacinth emerges, its soft yet intoxicating scent lending a spring-like vitality to the opening.
As the top notes transition into the heart, a lush garden of florals unfurls, enveloping the senses in a rich, complex bouquet. Orange blossom shines with its radiant, honeyed sweetness, while jasmine adds a creamy, indolic depth, evoking heady, moonlit nights. The powdery softness of orris root provides a velvety texture, balanced by the classic, regal elegance of rose.
Ylang ylang contributes a tropical creaminess with banana-like undertones, enhancing the floral opulence. The spicy warmth of carnation, tinged with clove-like nuances, blends seamlessly with the earthy narcotic charm of narcissus. Delicate accents of clove and cinnamon weave through the heart, their sweet and fiery spices adding warmth and intrigue, a flickering ember within the floral composition.
As the fragrance settles, the base reveals its oriental richness, grounding the florals with layers of sensual warmth and complexity. Vanilla and tonka bean form a soft, sweet duet, their creamy, balsamic richness reminiscent of golden syrup. The resinous warmth of labdanum blends with the animalic allure of civet and musk, lending an exotic, primal edge to the base.
Mysore sandalwood adds a smooth, milky woodiness, while cedar provides a dry, slightly sharp contrast. The earthy depth of oakmoss grounds the composition, with its damp, forest-like aroma evoking the shadows of an ancient grove. Ambergris, shimmering with marine and salty facets, enhances the sensuality, while patchouli brings a dark, earthy richness that lingers like an echo.
Flamme is a dynamic interplay of brightness and warmth, elegance and sensuality, its symphony of ingredients evoking a fiery vitality that captures the spirit of its name. Each note adds depth, from the fresh and green top to the spicy florals in the heart and the rich, resinous base, creating a fragrance as bold and unforgettable as a dancing flame.
Bottles:
Fate of the Fragrance:
Flamme, one of Bourjois' most evocative and beloved fragrances, experienced a prolonged hiatus after its original release in 1932. The exact date of its discontinuation remains unclear, but its absence left an indelible mark on those who cherished its vibrant, fresh floral oriental character. Over the years, as the perfume world evolved and newer fragrances emerged, Flamme's legacy lingered as a symbol of timeless elegance and fiery sophistication.
In 1976, Bourjois rekindled the flame, reintroducing Flamme to a new generation of fragrance lovers. The task of bringing the scent into the modern era was entrusted to Jacques Polge, a master perfumer known for his ability to reinterpret classics while respecting their essence. Polge carefully reformulated the fragrance, adapting it with modern ingredients to comply with contemporary perfumery standards while maintaining the spirit of the original creation.
The 1976 version of Flamme was available in Eau de Toilette and Eau de Cologne, offering versatility to suit different occasions and preferences. The Eau de Toilette captured a more concentrated and lasting expression of the fragrance, with its bold interplay of floral and oriental notes lingering throughout the day. The Eau de Cologne, by contrast, offered a lighter, fresher take, perfect for a more casual or refreshing wear. Both versions aimed to honor the fragrance’s origins while appealing to modern sensibilities.
The revival of Flamme in the 1970s represented more than just a return of a beloved scent—it was a reawakening of the bold, confident femininity and sophistication that had defined its character. By infusing new life into an iconic fragrance, Bourjois reminded the world of Flamme’s enduring allure, bridging the past and present with a scent that continued to captivate and inspire.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fresh aldehydic floral fragrance for women. It starts with fresh green aldehydic and citrus fruit top notes, followed by a light, green floral heart of hyacinth, jasmine, rose and orris, resting on a subdued, powdery base of oriental woods.
- Top notes: aldehydes, hyacinth, bergamot, lemon, galbanum, mandarin
- Middle notes: orris, jasmine, rose, ylang ylang, carnation, narcissus
- Base notes: Mysore sandalwood, musk, oakmoss, cedar, amber
Scent Profile:
Flamme begins with a sparkling burst of freshness, like a cool breeze sweeping through a sun-dappled garden. The top notes unfold with the sharp, invigorating bite of aldehydes, creating an effervescent, almost metallic shimmer that feels clean and crisp. The aldehydes are seamlessly intertwined with bergamot—a bright, zesty citrus that immediately lifts the spirit.
The lemon adds a tart, tangy edge, while mandarin brings a softer, sweeter citrus tone, rounding out the fragrance with its juicy, almost honeyed warmth. Galbanum offers an additional layer of green complexity, evoking the scent of fresh, dewy grass after a morning rain, with a slightly resinous, earthy quality that grounds the airy citrus notes.
As the top notes gently recede, Flamme reveals a beautifully composed heart of green florals. The initial impression is of hyacinth, a flower that smells like spring itself—sweet, crisp, and dewy, with a subtle aquatic quality. This is swiftly followed by the lush, velvety scent of jasmine, adding an elegant, heady floral richness that’s both romantic and timeless.
The soft, delicate petals of rose join the bouquet, their classic, powdery sweetness balanced by a whisper of orris, which adds a powdery, somewhat woody depth to the floral heart. The inclusion of ylang-ylang introduces an exotic, slightly fruity floral nuance, while the carnation and narcissus lend a touch of spice and green, further adding to the complexity of this refined floral accord.
The base notes of Flamme provide a smooth, grounded finish, creating a sense of warmth and depth that lingers on the skin. Mysore sandalwood is the heart of this base, its creamy, soft woodiness evoking the feeling of a sun-warmed wooden floor. The earthy, almost smoky richness of oakmoss adds a forest-like, mossy character, enhancing the fragrance with its subtle green undertones.
Cedar introduces a clean, dry woodiness, reinforcing the fragrance's sense of balance between fresh florals and earthy, grounded notes. Finally, amber envelops the composition in a soft, golden warmth, adding a resinous sweetness that ties the whole fragrance together with a sophisticated, powdery finish.
Altogether, Flamme feels like a luminous walk through a sunlit garden after a rainstorm—fresh, floral, and green at first, but gradually warming into a soft, woody embrace, leaving behind a lingering, elegant trace.
Fate of the Fragrance:
Flamme was first introduced by Bourjois in 1932, a product of the perfume house's ongoing commitment to creating elegant, distinctive fragrances. The original version, which captured the spirit of the early 1930s with its fresh aldehydic floral notes, reflected a period where sophisticated, modern scents began to dominate the fragrance landscape. Its intricate composition of aldehydes, florals, and powdery woods perfectly embodied the elegance and refinement of the time, offering women a fragrance that felt both fresh and timeless. However, like many perfumes from that era, Flamme eventually faced discontinuation, likely due to changing market trends and the ever-shifting nature of fragrance preferences.
Fast forward to 1976, when the fragrance was resurrected and reformulated by the renowned perfumer Jacques Polge. This relaunch aimed to capture the essence of the original Flamme while adapting it to the sensibilities of a new era. The 1976 version of Flamme retained the heart of the original, with its green aldehydic freshness and elegant floral notes, but it was subtly altered to meet the demands of modern perfumery. By using contemporary ingredients and shifting the balance of notes, Polge gave Flamme a renewed sophistication that still paid homage to its 1930s roots. The reintroduced fragrance was marketed as both an Eau de Toilette and Eau de Cologne, allowing it to reach a broader audience.
Despite the enthusiasm surrounding the 1976 relaunch, Flamme was eventually discontinued again, though the exact year of its cessation remains unclear. By 1984, it was still being sold, but it was no longer a prominent fixture on the market. Over time, Flamme faded from memory, its intricate blend of aldehydes, florals, and woody notes becoming a forgotten treasure. Its disappearance, much like that of many perfumes from bygone eras, marked the end of an olfactory chapter in the history of fragrance, but its legacy remains a testament to the elegance and craft of early 20th-century perfumery.
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