Kobako by Bourjois c1936

Launched in 1936, Kobako by Bourjois is a perfume that stands out not only for its unique fragrance but also for its intriguing name. The term "Kobako" is derived from Japanese, where it translates to "perfume-box" or "scented box," and it refers to a lacquer or porcelain box used for storing incense. Pronounced as "koh-BAH-koh," the word evokes images of delicate craftsmanship, refined elegance, and a sensory experience tied to both fragrance and cultural symbolism. The association with a "perfume-box" suggests a treasured, almost sacred container for rare and precious scents, resonating with ideas of beauty and ritual. For women of the 1930s, particularly those attuned to global influences and trends, a name like Kobako would have conjured images of exoticism, luxury, and sophistication, drawing on the allure of Eastern traditions and the mystique of Far Eastern arts and culture.

The word "Kobako" in relation to scent would evoke a sense of deep, enveloping luxury. It conjures a perfume that is as much about the presentation and atmosphere as it is about the fragrance itself—a scent that would be housed in something as precious and alluring as a lacquered box. The perfume might be imagined as contained within a beautiful object, promising a fragrance that would linger and resonate, much like the incense stored in those precious boxes. In scent, it speaks to a luxurious, almost ritualistic experience, drawing upon the Eastern idea of treasured, often mystically rich scents held in reverence.

Kobako was created by renowned perfumer Ernest Beaux, with assistance from Constantin Mikhailovich "Kot" Weriguine, and it is classified as a warm leathery floral chypre fragrance for women. It is described as "heady," with rare wood species and jasmine as the dominant notes, providing a rich, sensual, and somewhat exotic olfactory experience. The fragrance is noted for its ability to hold better in fabrics and furs, positioning it as a perfume for brunettes of an exotic type—suggesting a scent that is both deep and striking, perhaps better suited to those with darker hair and a bold, sophisticated personality. The warm, woody, and floral elements would have made it a perfume that lingered on the skin and in the mind, creating an aura of mystery and sensuality.

Evening in Paris by Bourjois c1929

Evening in Paris, originally launched as Soir de Paris in 1928 in France, was a fragrance that instantly captured the essence of the French capital's romantic allure and timeless elegance. The name Soir de Paris translates from French to "Evening of Paris" or "Paris Evening." Pronounced as "Swahr duh Pah-ree," the name conjures vivid imagery of the city at twilight—when the streets are bathed in the soft glow of lamplights, the air is filled with the scent of fresh blooms, and the atmosphere is alive with possibility. It evokes feelings of romance, sophistication, and the captivating magic of Paris after dark. The name speaks to the heart of the Roaring Twenties in Paris, a time when the city was at the forefront of cultural and artistic innovation. It reflects the exuberance and charm of the era, when Paris was the symbol of freedom, fashion, and glamour, and the scent captured this exuberant spirit.

In 1929, the perfume was rebranded as Evening in Paris for the U.S. market, likely to appeal to American sensibilities while still retaining the Parisian glamour at its core. The choice of the name for the American release was strategic, leaning into the allure of Paris as a destination synonymous with romance and sophistication. For women of the time, particularly in the late 1920s, Soir de Paris would have seemed like an invitation to a world of opulence, mystery, and elegance—just as the city of Paris itself was considered the epicenter of high society, fashion, and culture. The fragrance's name would have resonated deeply with women who sought to capture that same Parisian allure in their daily lives.

The time period during which Soir de Paris was introduced was one of immense cultural change. The Roaring Twenties—or Les Années Folles as they were known in France—was a period marked by liberation, social upheaval, and a flourishing of art and culture. Women were embracing newfound freedoms, including the right to vote and a shift toward more relaxed, modern styles. Fashion was dominated by shorter hemlines, bobbed haircuts, and a more practical, yet glamorous, aesthetic. The rise of jazz and the avant-garde in the arts mirrored a shift in social norms and attitudes. The fragrance itself, created by Ernest Beaux with assistance from Constantin Mikhailovich “Kot” Weriguine, mirrored the lively, sparkling energy of the time while providing a touch of sophistication and softness that was very much in tune with the tastes of the Flapper generation.