Ashes of Roses by Bourjois c1909

Launched in France in 1909 and introduced to the United States by 1913, Cendre des Roses, better known as "Ashes of Roses," became a significant part of the Bourjois toiletry line. It reached the English market in 1923, coinciding with the establishment of Bourjois Ltd. The name “Ashes of Roses” is both poetic and evocative, inspired by a specific shade of mauve that gained popularity in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. This color, a muted blend of soft lavender and gray, was admired for its subdued elegance and romantic connotations. In the Victorian era, it was common to name colors and products after evocative imagery, leading to similar hues such as "Ashes of Violets" and "Ashes of Carnations."

The phrase "Cendre des Rose" originates from French, pronounced as "sondr day rose". To modern ears, the name may seem unusual or somber, but during its time, it resonated with deep emotional and aesthetic significance. The imagery of roses reduced to ashes suggests fleeting beauty, delicate melancholy, and wistful remembrance—qualities that appealed to the romantic sensibilities of the era.

The name "Ashes of Roses" evokes images of faded bouquets, timeless elegance, and the fragility of beauty. For women of the early 20th century, this fragrance name likely conjured feelings of nostalgia and refinement, connecting to themes of love and memory. Roses, traditionally symbols of passion and romance, paired with the ethereal quality of ashes, spoke to an era preoccupied with romantic idealism and the transient nature of beauty.

In terms of scent, the interpretation of "Ashes of Roses" was as captivating as the name. Created by renowned perfumer Ernest Beaux, the fragrance was a sophisticated floral composition featuring Marechal Niel rose, tea roses, Bulgarian red roses, and honeyed sweet briar. These lush, varied rose notes imbued the perfume with depth and complexity, enhanced by the natural sweetness of honeyed accents, creating a fragrance that was as evocative as its name.

When "Ashes of Roses" debuted, it entered a market where rose-based fragrances were immensely popular. The early 20th century saw a proliferation of floral scents, reflecting a broader trend toward romantic and feminine compositions. However, Beaux’s creation stood out due to its intricate layering of rose varieties and the evocative storytelling behind its name. The concept of pairing a scent with an emotionally charged name like "Ashes of Roses" added to its allure, making it not just a fragrance but a narrative encapsulated in a bottle.

At the time, perfumery was shifting from simple floral waters to more complex and nuanced blends. "Ashes of Roses" bridged these two worlds with its clear floral focus and subtle sophistication. While its structure aligned with contemporary tastes, its theme of muted elegance and ephemeral beauty gave it a distinctive character, ensuring its place in the annals of perfumery.

"Ashes of Roses" was more than a perfume; it was a cultural artifact that captured the mood and aesthetics of its era. Through its unique name, luxurious scent, and evocative imagery, it resonated deeply with its audience, offering them not just a fragrance but an experience of romantic nostalgia.

Fragrance Composition:

So what did Ashes of Roses smell like? It was a floral blend of Marechal Niel rose, tea roses, Bulgarian red roses, and honeyed sweet briar.

• Top notes: lemon, thyme, tea rose, neroli, rose geranium, cassie, sweet briar
• Middle notes: Marechal Niel rose, orange blossom, ylang ylang, clove, Bulgarian rose, orris, tuberose, jasmine, violet
• Base notes: sandalwood, ambergris, musk, civet, styrax, vetiver, vanilla, tolu balsam, tonka bean

Scent Profile:

Opening the bottle of Ashes of Roses reveals a symphony of light and vibrant top notes, where each element plays a role in awakening the senses. Lemon provides a bright, zesty spark that feels like a sunlit morning, crisp and invigorating. The herbal nuance of thyme adds a green, slightly resinous undertone, tempering the citrus with a hint of aromatic warmth. Tea rose emerges next, offering a delicate and airy floral quality, as though you are cupping a soft, freshly bloomed petal. It is lighter and more ethereal than other roses, with faintly sweet yet slightly crisp notes. 

Neroli, with its sparkling citrus-floral aroma, introduces a sunny brightness reminiscent of orange blossoms. Rose geranium, herbal and rosy with a green edge, deepens the bouquet, while cassie, sweet and powdery, exudes a honeyed, mimosa-like richness. Finally, the honeyed sweet briar wraps the top notes in a veil of subtle sweetness, carrying an earthy softness that hints at wild gardens.

As the scent transitions to its heart, the richness of Marechal Niel rose comes forward. Unlike the tea rose’s lightness, this bloom is lush, buttery, and golden, its petals exuding a warm, almost fruity sweetness. Marechal Niel roses are famed for their opulence, embodying the fullness of a classic old-world rose in full bloom. Complementing this is the unmistakable depth of Bulgarian red rose, which is velvety, intense, and imbued with a natural spiciness. This variety contrasts beautifully with Marechal Niel, its richer and darker tones evoking an emotional intensity. 

Orange blossom brings a creamy and citrusy softness, while ylang-ylang contributes a tropical, almost banana-like sweetness with floral richness. Clove introduces a subtle spicy warmth, its piquancy enhancing the depth of the roses. The velvety texture of orris—derived from iris roots—adds a powdery, slightly woody softness, perfectly bridging the floral notes. Tuberose, creamy and heady, mingles with the exotic allure of jasmine and the soft, sweet, and slightly powdery charm of violet, creating a heart that is both complex and captivating.

As the fragrance settles into its base, the warmth and depth of its foundation unfold. Sandalwood, with its creamy and woody smoothness, provides a grounding warmth. Ambergris, musky and subtly marine, enhances the base with its luxurious softness. The animalic notes of musk and civet lend a sultry, sensual depth, balanced by the resinous sweetness of styrax. Earthy and smoky vetiver adds complexity, while the indulgent gourmand warmth of vanilla and tonka bean bring a sweet, comforting richness. Tolu balsam, with its resinous, slightly spicy, and creamy facets, completes the base with an enveloping, long-lasting finish.

Ashes of Roses is an olfactory journey through a rose garden at different times of the day, from the fresh, dew-kissed blooms in the morning to the sun-warmed richness of midday and the sultry, resinous ambiance of evening. The interplay of various rose varieties creates a multidimensional floral experience, each note adding layers of nuance and sophistication.

 The “Ashes of...” Fragrance Line: An Olfactory Legacy:

The immense popularity of Bourjois’ Ashes of Roses (c.1909) inspired an entire series of fragrances under the evocative "Ashes of..." banner. These scents, each tied to a particular flower or concept, capitalized on the romantic imagery and wistful elegance of their predecessor. Each perfume was presented in simple yet sophisticated packaging, featuring coordinated paper graphics of a slender vase with a single flower. These motifs were reminiscent of the minimalist yet striking style of Paul Iribe, whose work for other perfume houses suggests he may have contributed to these designs.

Ashes of Roses (c.1909)

As the originator of the line, Ashes of Roses offered an intricate blend of roses, embodying various moods of the flower—soft and dewy tea rose, golden Marechal Niel, and deep, velvety Bulgarian red rose—accented by sweet briar and a honeyed touch. The name conjures an image of faded romance, delicate and ethereal, while the scent presented a layered bouquet of floral richness balanced with earthy and resinous base notes.

Ashes of Violets (c.1913)

This perfume likely captured the soft, powdery sweetness of violets, a flower long associated with modesty and charm. Enhanced with green and slightly woody nuances, Ashes of Violets would have evoked a gentle, nostalgic aura. The addition of orris root or mimosa may have deepened its powdery character, making it delicate yet comforting.

Ashes of Mandarine Roses (date unknown)

A more exotic iteration of the rose theme, this perfume likely paired the fruity brightness of mandarin oranges with the softness of roses. The result would have been a vibrant yet tender floral scent, with a citrusy twist that added a sparkling freshness to the composition.

Ashes of Muguet (c.1913)

Ashes of Muguet likely showcased the crisp, green, and slightly watery floral profile of lily of the valley. This fragrance would have been light and airy, a nod to springtime gardens. Notes of fresh grass or white musk may have supported the delicate floral, evoking a sense of purity and renewal.

Ashes of Jasmine (c.1913)

Jasmine, often associated with exotic beauty, lent its rich, sweet, and slightly animalic floral character to this fragrance. Warm and opulent, Ashes of Jasmine would have carried a sensuality balanced with a soft floral heart, likely supported by notes of orange blossom or ylang-ylang.

Ashes of Cyclamen (c.1913)

Cyclamen has a light, green floral scent, often described as watery and slightly soapy. This fragrance may have paired the cyclamen’s fresh profile with soft musk or powdery accents, creating an understated yet elegant composition.

Ashes of Chypre (c.1913)

Inspired by the classic Chypre accord, this fragrance likely featured a mossy, woody base of oakmoss and patchouli, paired with citrus top notes like bergamot and floral heart notes such as rose or jasmine. The result would have been a sophisticated, earthy scent that spoke to both modernity and tradition.

Ashes of Gardenia (c.1913)

Gardenia, with its creamy, tropical floral scent, provided a lush and intoxicating focus for this fragrance. Its opulence would have been tempered by green or slightly woody notes, making it radiant and full-bodied.

Ashes of Sandal (or Sandalwood) (c.1913)

A warm, woody composition, Ashes of Sandal would have featured the creamy, slightly sweet richness of sandalwood. Resinous undertones from ingredients like benzoin or styrax could have added depth and a smoky allure to this sophisticated fragrance.

Ashes of Wallflower (c.1929)

Wallflower, a Victorian favorite, has a spicy, clove-like floral scent. This perfume likely combined its distinct character with woody or musky notes, creating a slightly peppery yet floral profile evocative of wild gardens.

Ashes of Lilies (c.1931)

With lilies symbolizing purity and elegance, this fragrance would have been creamy and slightly green, with a waxy floral quality. Notes of white musk or hyacinth may have softened the sharpness, enhancing the perfume’s ethereal charm.

Ashes of Carnations (c.1929)

Created by Constantin Weriguine, this fragrance likely emphasized the spicy, clove-like scent of carnations. Sweet, powdery, and warm, Ashes of Carnations would have evoked both passion and vintage sophistication, accented with hints of amber or musk.

Ashes of Lavender (c.1929)

A classic fragrance, Ashes of Lavender would have paired the herbaceous, camphorous quality of lavender with sweet, powdery undertones. Notes like tonka bean or vanilla might have softened its sharpness, creating a calming and timeless scent.

Ashes of Lilac (c.1932)

This perfume likely celebrated the soft, powdery, and slightly fruity profile of lilac. A springtime favorite, its gentle aroma may have been enhanced with green or woody undertones for balance and depth.

Ashes of Heliotrope (date unknown)

Heliotrope, with its almond-like sweetness and vanilla-powder quality, would have made for a warm, cozy, and slightly gourmand fragrance. It may have included hints of tonka bean or musk, adding richness to its soft floral profile.

By offering a spectrum of floral fragrances, the "Ashes of..." line captured the diverse beauty of nature and the poetic melancholy of fleeting blooms. Remaining on the market into the mid-20th century, many of these perfumes became timeless classics, beloved for their elegance and emotive power.

The enduring success of Bourjois’ Ashes of Roses cemented its place as the most beloved fragrance in the “Ashes of…” line. Despite the variety of floral options introduced under the series, none could rival the popularity and mystique of Ashes of Roses. In 1921, recognizing its dominance in the market, Bourjois applied for a U.S. trademark to secure the fragrance's identity and visual branding. The logo featured a simple yet striking design: a single red rose with lush green leaves placed in a delicate white vase, all set against a golden background. The understated elegance of this imagery aligned perfectly with the romantic and nostalgic aura the name evoked.

By 1929, as trends shifted toward more modern aesthetics, Bourjois refreshed the visual identity of Ashes of Roses. The new design moved away from the solitary rose motif, replacing it with a vase or basket holding five full roses. This evolution represented not only a modernization of style but also a visual metaphor for abundance and a richer, more vibrant interpretation of the fragrance's legacy. The new design suggested growth, evolution, and the flourishing success of the Ashes of Roses line, while still maintaining its signature romantic charm.

The interplay of these graphic elements across decades helped Ashes of Roses maintain its iconic status, resonating with consumers both for its timeless scent and its ability to adapt to changing tastes without losing its essence.

Rexall Pharmacy photo from Octavian Coifan. 

Window display of Ashes of Roses c1920s, photo from worthpoint

Ashes of Roses Domino set, photo by ebay seller murrykin

The immense popularity of Bourjois' Ashes of… fragrance lines extended beyond the perfumes themselves, shaping the aesthetic identity of their boutiques. Interiors and furnishings in Bourjois shops were adorned with graphics that echoed the delicate charm and refined elegance of the brand’s signature motifs. These designs not only reinforced the visual appeal of the product lines but also created an immersive brand experience for customers, seamlessly blending the artistry of fragrance with that of interior design.

One particularly striking example of this branding was a rare advertising chair, believed to have been used in the Paris or London Bourjois salons. Only two such chairs are known to exist today, making them highly coveted pieces of perfumery history. Crafted from wood and finished with a gleaming varnish, the chair exudes the timeless sophistication synonymous with Bourjois. Its central splat is adorned with a hand-painted Art Deco motif of a slender vase holding a single stylized rose bloom, rendered in vibrant polychrome enamel. The gilded background adds a touch of opulence, while the base of the splat is stenciled with the name “Bourjois” alongside the cities “Paris” and “London,” emphasizing the brand’s cosmopolitan identity.

Adding to its allure, the chair's top rail features a hand-painted cartouche inscribed with the name of Bourjois’ iconic fragrance, Ashes of Roses. This design element reinforces the perfume’s prominence within the brand’s portfolio. The back of the chair reveals another captivating detail: a similar hand-painted motif, this time featuring two stylized violet blossoms. The accompanying cartouche reads Ashes of Violets, celebrating yet another beloved fragrance from the Ashes of… line. The chair’s leather-upholstered slip seat adds comfort to its artistic design, making it not only a functional piece but a true work of art.

This chair represents more than just a piece of furniture; it is a tangible connection to the golden age of perfumery, where branding and artistry intersected to create a memorable and luxurious consumer experience.

The Ashes of Roses/Violettes included the following products:

The Ashes of Roses and Ashes of Violets lines by Bourjois were not just a collection of fragrances; they represented an entire lifestyle brand, offering a wide array of products that catered to personal grooming, beauty, and even indulgence. Each item was elegantly packaged and aligned with the sophisticated image of the Ashes of… series, allowing women to fully immerse themselves in the luxurious and romantic aura associated with the brand.

Fragrance Offerings

At the heart of the collection were the perfumes, available in six sizes, including charming miniatures that allowed for portability and gift-giving. The Toilet Water and Eau de Cologne expanded the fragrance experience, offering lighter concentrations in three standard sizes and two grand decanter sizes, ideal for adorning a vanity. For those seeking scented indulgence in their bathing ritual, Toilet Soap and Bath Soap came in single or boxed sets of three, while Bath Crystals and Bath Tablets offered the ultimate in luxurious soaking.

Bath and Body Care

The line extended into everyday pampering with products like Bath Dusting Powder and Talcum Powder, available in two sizes, adding a soft, perfumed finish to the skin. The Sachet Powder, encased in satin envelopes, was a delicate addition for scenting wardrobes and linens. Cold Cream, Night Cream, and Vanishing Cream, offered in two sizes, catered to skincare needs, reflecting the brand’s commitment to beauty beyond fragrance.

Cosmetics

Face Powder and Compact Powder, each available in two sizes, were complemented by Rouge and Lipstick, bringing a harmonious extension of the Ashes of Roses and Ashes of Violets scents to makeup. The packaging often featured the iconic floral motifs, ensuring the products were as beautiful to display as they were functional. A special Vanity Bag Compact Powder, housed in a gilt case with a dainty puff and mirror, added an extra touch of glamour.

Specialty Items

Unique products such as Cigarettes, offered in two box sizes, and Perfume Cachous added an air of exclusivity and whimsy to the line. Smelling Salts provided a nod to the era's sensibilities, blending functionality with refinement. For hair care, Liquid Brilliantine and Solid Brilliantine in Ashes of Roses or Ashes of Violets scents kept locks gleaming, while a Wave Setting Lotion catered to the popular hairstyles of the time.

Gift Sets and Luxury Additions

For gifting or personal indulgence, the Coffret combined perfume, eau de cologne, lipstick, and face powder in a coordinated set. This was the epitome of luxury, offering everything a woman might need to maintain her refined appearance.

The Ashes of Roses and Ashes of Violets lines showcased Bourjois’ ability to transform a fragrance into a comprehensive lifestyle brand. Each product was designed to infuse everyday routines with elegance and charm, ensuring that the allure of these iconic fragrances extended far beyond the perfume bottle.

Perfume:

The Ashes of Roses perfume, introduced by Bourjois in 1909, was a cornerstone of the brand’s highly successful Ashes of... line. Presented in a range of bottles that reflected the elegance and sophistication of the fragrance, the perfume was available in six different sizes, each designed to appeal to various preferences and practicalities.

One of the most iconic bottles for Ashes of Roses was a slim, square-shaped flacon. Its simple yet refined design exuded an understated luxury, with a clear glass body showcasing the delicate golden hue of the perfume within. This bottle was crowned with a button-shaped glass stopper, which was further adorned with gilded enamel, adding a touch of glamour and opulence. The design not only preserved the fragrance but also served as a decorative object suitable for a vanity table.

The smallest size, referred to as the Purse Size (Ref. No. 90M), was designed for portability. Its compact shape allowed it to be tucked into a handbag or carried discreetly, ensuring that the enchanting scent of Ashes of Roses was always within reach.

The Small Size (Ref. No. 90), containing approximately 1 oz of perfume, measured 2.75 inches high and 1.5 inches wide. This slightly larger option was perfect for those who wanted a more substantial supply without compromising the compact, elegant design.

A Larger Size (Ref. No. 91), possibly containing 2 oz, offered an even more generous amount of fragrance. This size catered to those who adored Ashes of Roses as a signature scent and desired a bottle that would last longer while still maintaining the iconic design elements.

The tagline accompanying Ashes of Roses—"Perfume Ashes of Roses, of delicate and lasting fragrance"—underscored its ethereal and timeless appeal. The scent was renowned for its subtle yet enduring floral notes, capturing the essence of romance and refinement that defined the early 20th century.

The design of the bottles mirrored the spirit of the fragrance itself: classic, sophisticated, and versatile. Whether selected as a personal indulgence or given as a gift, the bottles of Ashes of Roses not only contained a beloved perfume but also represented the high standards of craftsmanship and design that characterized Bourjois products. Each bottle was a statement piece, blending functionality with artistic beauty.

• Purse size (Ref. No. 90M)
• 1 oz - Small size (Ref. No. 90) measures 2.75" inches high and 1.5" inches wide
• 2 oz? - Larger size (Ref. No. 91)

  

The Deluxe parfum version of Ashes of Roses was presented in an exquisite crystal bottle, epitomizing the elegance and luxury of early 20th-century French perfumery. Crafted in France by renowned glassmakers Baccarat and the Saint Louis Glassworks, this bottle was a masterpiece of design and craftsmanship.

The bottle features a narrow, elongated urn shape, gracefully perched atop a pedestal foot. This classic silhouette exudes sophistication and draws upon neoclassical design elements, which were highly fashionable during the era. The body of the bottle is meticulously crafted from clear crystal, allowing the warm, golden hue of the perfume to radiate with clarity and brilliance.

The stopper is a striking contrast, made of jet-black glass and shaped into an eight-sided lidded urn. This architectural detail lends an air of regal distinction, elevating the bottle’s overall aesthetic. The combination of clear crystal and black glass creates a dramatic interplay of light and shadow, further enhancing its visual allure.

This particular bottle design was initially introduced for Bourjois' perfumes Talis in 1912 and Miss Kate in 1922. Its timeless form became a hallmark of luxury and influenced future designs, most notably serving as the direct precursor to the iconic Shalimar bottle by Guerlain. This lineage underscores its significance in the evolution of perfume bottle design, linking it to some of the most celebrated names in perfumery.

Standing approximately 4.5 inches tall, including the elegant black urn-shaped stopper, the bottle is both delicate and commanding. Its proportions make it a refined centerpiece for any vanity, embodying the opulence and refinement associated with high-end French perfumes of the early 1900s.

This Deluxe version of the Ashes of Roses parfum was not just a container but a statement piece, representing the artistry and prestige of Bourjois. It remains a coveted collector’s item, celebrated for its historical importance and exquisite craftsmanship.

Eau de Cologne:

Introduced in 1923, the Ashes of Roses Eau de Cologne was a versatile and accessible extension of the beloved perfume line, catering to those who sought a lighter, refreshing fragrance option. Bourjois ensured the cologne was available in a variety of sizes and presentations, appealing to a broad spectrum of customers.

The cologne was offered in three sizes of flask-shaped bottles, designed with simplicity and elegance to align with the understated charm of the Ashes of Roses brand. The smaller flasks were perfect for personal use or travel, fitting neatly into handbags or dressing table drawers. Medium and larger flasks catered to those who desired a longer-lasting supply, serving as everyday essentials for women who wanted to maintain the soft, floral allure of the scent throughout the day.

For households or enthusiasts who adored the cologne in greater volume, Bourjois introduced two sizes of economy decanters. These larger bottles were practical yet stylish, designed for more generous use. The decanters likely featured clean lines and sturdy glass, reflecting the era’s preference for functional beauty. Perfect for sharing among family members or for decanting into smaller bottles, the economy sizes were a testament to the product's widespread appeal and enduring popularity.

The Ashes of Roses Eau de Cologne was an embodiment of luxury made accessible. Whether in a petite flask for personal indulgence or a grand decanter for communal use, the cologne brought the delicate essence of roses into everyday life. Light, invigorating, and timeless, it offered a wearable interpretation of the romantic Ashes of Roses legacy, ensuring its place in both personal rituals and public admiration.

Eau de Toilette:

Introduced in 1923, the Ashes of Roses Toilet Water (Ref. No. 92) exemplified Bourjois' commitment to crafting products of the highest quality. Described by the company as being of "the highest and most delicate quality," the toilet water offered a fragrant and stimulating interpretation of the Ashes of Roses scent, tailored for those seeking an elegant, lighter fragrance experience.

The presentation of the Ashes of Roses Toilet Water reflected the refined aesthetic of the brand. The bottle was tall and slim, embodying an air of understated sophistication. Crafted from clear glass, its elongated form highlighted the purity of the liquid within, allowing the delicate hue of the toilet water to become a visual focal point. The finishing touch was the colored glass button-shaped stopper, which added a touch of color and charm to the otherwise minimalist design. This stopper, with its polished surface, enhanced the bottle's overall elegance and usability.

The Ashes of Roses Toilet Water was designed to provide a lighter yet lingering version of the iconic perfume. With its delicate floral bouquet, this product was ideal for daytime wear, offering a refreshing alternative to the more concentrated parfum. Bourjois positioned it as both "fragrant and stimulating," making it a perfect choice for invigorating morning routines or a gentle refresh throughout the day. Its versatility meant it could be splashed liberally on the body or used to scent linens, offering an air of luxury to everyday life.

This tall, slim bottle of Ashes of Roses Toilet Water encapsulated the elegance and practicality of 1920s beauty trends. As a lighter, more accessible counterpart to the Ashes of Roses perfume, it broadened the line's appeal, bringing the celebrated fragrance to a wider audience while maintaining the luxurious essence that defined the brand.

Rouge:

Introduced in 1923, Bourjois’ Rouge was an iconic beauty product that set the stage for what is commonly known as blush or blusher today. Housed in luxurious, gold-decorated leatherette cases, the Rouge was designed to be both practical and sophisticated. These cases featured rich, ball-top puffs, a charming and tactile addition that made the application process feel as indulgent as the product itself. The compact design made it an essential item for any woman's vanity or purse, adding both functionality and elegance to her beauty routine.

Bourjois offered Rouge in two distinct shades that reflected the trends of the era. The first, Ashes of Roses, was a deep, dark, and rich hue that carried a sense of sophistication and maturity. This shade likely captured the delicate yet bold essence of rose petals that were still dewy from the morning mist, adding a touch of romance to the complexion. The second, Mandarine, was a vivid and bright orange shade, which stood in stark contrast to its more subtle counterpart. Mandarine offered a cheerful, fresh burst of color that brightened the face with its lively tone, perfectly suited for a spring or summer look. These color choices reflected the versatility of the product—whether a woman desired the understated allure of Ashes of Roses or the vibrant energy of Mandarine, Bourjois catered to both.

Bourjois offered several different sizes of Rouge, each designed to meet the varied needs of its clientele. The Rouge was available in a pocket-size (Ref. No. 83), which came complete with a puff for easy on-the-go application. This size was perfect for quick touch-ups throughout the day. The boudoir-size (Ref. No. 84) was designed for at-home use, providing a larger amount of product while still retaining the elegant puff for smooth, controlled application. For professionals or those who preferred to apply Rouge with their own tools, the professional-size version (Ref. No. 85) was available without the puff, offering more of the rich product in a sleek, compact form.

Bourjois’ Rouge was not just a cosmetic product; it was a symbol of luxury and sophistication. The gold-decorated leatherette cases, combined with the rich ball-top puffs, elevated the act of applying blush into a ritual of glamour. The two shades, Ashes of Roses and Mandarine, catered to a range of moods and styles, making the product as versatile as it was beautiful. Even today, Rouge remains a reminder of the early 20th century’s penchant for indulgence in the details of personal beauty.

Face Powder

Introduced in 1923, Bourjois’ Face Powder was a true testament to the artistry of French cosmetics. The brand described it as “A triumph of French art,” and the accolades were not mere marketing claims but reflections of the product’s exceptional qualities. Known for its smoothness of texture and invisibility, the powder offered an unparalleled finish, designed to create a flawless, natural complexion. Bourjois emphasized that the powder was “delightfully perfumed,” with a delicate fragrance reminiscent of roses, giving an additional layer of luxury to the product, appealing to both the senses of sight and smell.

Bourjois also promoted the Face Powder as the result of “years of research in one of the most modern perfumery laboratories in Paris,” a nod to the innovation behind the creation of this product. The fine grind of the powder was particularly noteworthy, as it was ground “so fine as to be almost invisible,” promising a translucent, weightless application that would leave no visible traces, ideal for achieving a soft-focus effect. This advanced formulation allowed for a smooth, even layer over the skin that blended seamlessly, creating an almost imperceptible veil that enhanced the complexion without cakiness.

The Face Powder came in two primary sizes: a larger size for daily use and a compact version that made it convenient for travel or on-the-go touch-ups. Additionally, Bourjois offered the product in a range of shades to suit a variety of skin tones, ensuring that each woman could find her perfect match. The shades included Naturelle, which was likely the most neutral, ideal for fair to medium skin tones, and Rachel, which may have been a slightly warmer tone. Blanche, a fair and light shade, catered to those with porcelain complexions, while Rose, with its subtle pink undertones, added a touch of warmth and radiance to the skin. For those with darker skin tones, Brunette offered a deeper, more robust hue to blend seamlessly and naturally with their complexion.

Bourjois’ Face Powder was housed in elegant packaging, reflective of the brand’s emphasis on luxury. The powder was available in compacts, making it easy to apply and reapply throughout the day. The elegant cases and practical, portable design made this product a staple for women of the era who sought to achieve a refined, smooth complexion at home or while out and about.

Bourjois’ Face Powder not only provided a flawless finish but also exemplified the sophistication of 1920s French beauty. With its impeccable texture, elegant fragrance, and scientific formulation, it elevated the everyday routine into an indulgent experience. Even today, it remains a hallmark of vintage beauty, with its fine quality and luxurious touch continuing to captivate those who appreciate the craftsmanship of early 20th-century cosmetics.

Lipstick:

Introduced in 1923, Bourjois' lipsticks were designed to be the ultimate finishing touch to a woman's beauty routine. Housed in sleek gilded metal cases, these lipsticks stood out with their refined, luxurious packaging. The cases featured a push-up mechanism, allowing the user to easily elevate the lipstick for application, adding an element of elegance to the act of beautifying oneself. The gilded metal casing not only provided a sense of luxury but also ensured the product’s durability, offering a solid, high-end feel that aligned with the sophistication of the era.

Bourjois marketed their lipstick as the perfect way to "Add that last alluring touch to beauty," positioning it as an essential item in the beauty ritual. The two available shades — Ashes of Roses and Ashes of Rose Mandarine — offered distinct options for different moods and occasions. Ashes of Roses was a deeper, darker hue, evoking a sense of mystery and refinement, ideal for evening wear or more formal occasions. Meanwhile, Ashes of Rose Mandarine was a lighter, more vibrant color, evoking the softness and freshness of a rose in bloom, perfect for daytime wear or those desiring a subtle pop of color.

The lipsticks were available in two sizes: the Purse Size (Ref. No. 97), which was compact and designed for easy portability, and the Larger Size (Ref. No. 98), offering a more substantial amount of product for daily use. Both sizes were created with practicality in mind, fitting comfortably into a woman’s handbag while maintaining an aura of refinement. These elegant lipsticks were more than just a cosmetic product; they were a symbol of beauty and sophistication in the Roaring Twenties.

Bourjois’ lipsticks were celebrated for their high quality and were marketed as a must-have for women seeking a flawless, complete look. The gilded casing, push-up mechanism, and beautiful shades helped elevate the lipstick from a mere cosmetic to a luxury accessory, embodying the glamour and elegance of the time.

Bath Crystals & Tablets:

Introduced in 1923, Bourjois' Bath Salt Tablets and Bath Salt Crystals offered a luxurious bathing experience, with two sizes available for each product. The Bath Salt Tablets came in two options: a small container holding six tablets or a larger container with twelve. These bath salt tablets were infused with the signature Ashes of Roses or Ashes of Violets scents, delivering a fragrant and relaxing aroma that would envelop the user during their bath. These bath salt tablets were designed to be dissolved in warm bathwater, providing both a therapeutic and aromatic experience. The carefully crafted scents infused the water, creating a soothing atmosphere while subtly perfuming the skin.

Bath salt crystals, available in small and large sizes, offered the same indulgent, fragrant bathing experience. These crystals could be added to a warm bath, dissolving into the water and transforming the bath into a sensory escape. The bath crystals were available in the Ashes of Roses, Ashes of Violets, and Ashes of Carnations fragrances, each offering a unique and delightful aroma. The Ashes of Roses provided a rich, romantic fragrance, while the Ashes of Violets brought a delicate, powdery sweetness to the bath. The Ashes of Carnations fragrance, meanwhile, offered a spicy, floral scent that was warm and inviting.

For those who desired an even more refined presentation, Bourjois also offered luxury bath salt crystals in opal glass jars. The small and large jars, which featured elegant and fancy glass containers, added a touch of sophistication to the bathroom vanity. The opalescent quality of the glass jars further enhanced the luxury feel, elevating the simple ritual of bathing into an indulgent, sensory experience.

Bath salts, in general, are water-soluble minerals, often made from sea salt or Epsom salts, that are added to bathwater for their therapeutic properties. When dissolved in warm water, bath salts can help soothe sore muscles, relax the body, and promote overall relaxation. The minerals in bath salts, like magnesium, are believed to absorb through the skin, offering potential benefits such as relieving tension, improving circulation, and moisturizing the skin. Beyond their physical benefits, bath salts are also prized for their ability to enhance the bathing experience with their delightful fragrances, which promote mental relaxation and calm. Bourjois’ bath salt offerings not only provided these benefits but also infused the air with luxurious scents, creating a truly indulgent escape.

Talcum, Baby  Powder & Poudre de Toilette:

Introduced in 1923, Bourjois’ Talcum Powder came in two sizes, offering a luxurious and finely crafted powder that was both functional and indulgent. The powder was designed to provide a soft, smooth texture for the skin, absorbing moisture and leaving a delicate, fragrant veil. It was a staple in many beauty routines of the era, used not only for its soothing properties but also to enhance personal hygiene and comfort.

Talcum powder, made primarily from talc, a naturally occurring mineral, is composed of magnesium, silicon, oxygen, and hydrogen. Talc has a soft, smooth texture, which makes it ideal for use as a body powder. When ground finely, talcum powder can be used to absorb moisture, reducing friction and helping to keep the skin dry. This made it particularly popular during the early 20th century for both everyday personal care and for more special, indulgent uses. In addition to moisture-absorbing properties, talcum powder was used to calm skin irritation, especially in areas prone to sweating or chafing, such as the feet, thighs, and underarms.

The fine texture of talcum powder made it perfect for applying to the skin, leaving a silky, soft finish. It was especially popular after bathing, offering a fresh, clean feeling and adding a subtle fragrance. The delicate scent of Bourjois’ Talcum Powder—whether infused with Ashes of Roses, Ashes of Violets, or other floral notes—added an extra layer of luxury to the experience, enveloping the skin in a faint, pleasing aroma that lingered throughout the day. Talcum powder was also used by women to set makeup, as it helped to absorb excess oil and reduce shine, leaving the skin with a matte, flawless appearance.

Beyond its use in beauty and personal care, talcum powder was often utilized for its cooling and soothing effects, especially in hot or humid weather. It was a common product for infants, applied to prevent diaper rash or skin irritation. For adults, it was a comforting product to apply to the body before dressing, ensuring the skin stayed dry and fresh.

Bourjois’ Talcum Powder, introduced in 1923, was a luxurious and essential product that added a touch of elegance and comfort to daily grooming routines.

Cold Cream, Vanishing Cream & Night Cream:

Introduced in 1923, Bourjois' Vanishing Cream was marketed as a multi-purpose product designed to address a variety of skin concerns. It was said to be especially effective in fading dark spots, blemishes, and in helping to clear blackheads and pimples. Bourjois suggested using it as a prelude to face powder in the morning, claiming it created a smooth, perfect base for makeup and provided a protective layer before going outdoors. The cream was also said to offer some protection against sunburn, though it was primarily designed as a beauty product to improve skin tone and texture. Bourjois described the Vanishing Cream as an "exquisite cream of lasting freshness and delightful perfume," emphasizing both its efficacy and its luxurious, fragrant nature.

Vanishing creams are a type of lightweight, fast-absorbing moisturizer that "vanish" into the skin, leaving behind a smooth finish with no greasy residue. They often contained ingredients such as glycerin, lanolin, and oils that help to moisturize the skin. These creams were often marketed as a base for makeup, helping foundation or powder to adhere better and last longer. Vanishing creams became a beauty staple in the early 20th century due to their ability to create a smooth, matte finish while addressing imperfections.

Introduced in 1924, Bourjois' Cold Cream was described as "the true skin food," with the promise of creating a healthy glow and supple skin. Cold creams have long been used for their ability to cleanse, moisturize, and nourish the skin. Typically made from a combination of oils (such as almond or rose oil) and emulsifying agents, cold creams help to remove makeup and dirt while maintaining skin hydration. The product was especially popular for dry or sensitive skin, as it formed a protective barrier that locked in moisture while keeping the skin soft and supple. Cold creams were often used as a nourishing treatment for the face, particularly in the evening, before bedtime, to rejuvenate the skin.

Introduced in 1928, Bourjois' Night Cream was designed to be applied before retiring for bed, as part of an evening skincare routine. Bourjois claimed that it “softens and nourishes the skin and removes all impurities from the pores while you sleep,” suggesting that the cream worked overnight to refresh and replenish the skin. Night creams are typically richer and thicker than day creams, offering deep hydration and nourishment to the skin while it is at rest. They often contain ingredients such as vitamins, essential oils, and other active compounds that support skin regeneration. The use of a night cream is an important step in many skincare regimens, as the skin tends to repair itself during sleep, making it the ideal time for applying richer formulations that promote skin health.

Together, these three creams—Vanishing Cream, Cold Cream, and Night Cream—were integral to Bourjois' beauty offerings, addressing different aspects of skin care throughout the day. The Vanishing Cream helped create a smooth, matte base for makeup, while the Cold Cream offered deep hydration and nourishment for the skin, and the Night Cream provided restorative benefits overnight. Each of these products reflected the growing emphasis on skincare during the early 20th century, offering both functional and luxurious solutions for a range of skin concerns.

Ashes of Roses Depilatory:

In the 1920s, as fashion shifted to reveal more skin, particularly the legs and bare arms, shaving became an essential grooming practice for women who wanted to avoid the "au naturel" look. However, unlike today's array of razors and grooming products, women during this era had few options. Shaving the underarms and legs was considered not only a bold and "risqué" choice, but also quite risky. Most women had to use men's razors or special lady razors that were still large and cumbersome, making the process more difficult and prone to accidents. The lack of modern shaving tools made the task of hair removal much more challenging.

In response to these difficulties, many companies began developing alternative methods of hair removal, with depilatory creams becoming particularly popular. Bourjois was one of the brands that introduced a depilatory cream in 1925. Their version, infused with the signature Ashes of Roses fragrance, was marketed as a safer, more convenient alternative to razors. Bourjois claimed that their depilatory cream "removes superfluous hair in a few minutes, quickly, safely, and surely," while leaving the skin "smooth and soft and in no way irritated." The inclusion of their signature fragrance not only helped mask the chemical scent common to depilatories of the time but also offered a luxurious touch, allowing women to remove unwanted hair while leaving the skin lightly perfumed.

This product offered a significant convenience for women who were navigating the changing beauty standards of the time. The Bourjois depilatory cream not only provided a safer, quicker solution for hair removal but also catered to the desire for smooth, fragrant skin. It helped to meet the growing demand for beauty products that combined functionality with luxury, allowing women to achieve the smooth, polished look that was becoming increasingly fashionable in the Roaring Twenties.

Ashes of Roses Soap:

Introduced in 1923, Ashes of Roses Soap was a square-shaped bar soap that became a popular product in the Bourjois line. Known for its delicate and captivating fragrance, it embodied the signature Ashes of Roses scent that had been a hallmark of the brand. The soap was designed to offer not only a gentle cleansing experience but also to leave the skin delicately scented, capturing the essence of the roses in the product's name. Its square shape made it easy to handle, and the soap was marketed as both a luxurious and functional item, ideal for everyday use or as part of a more indulgent skincare routine.

Ashes of Roses Brilliantine:

In 1927, Bourjois introduced two types of brilliantines: crystallized and liquid, both designed to enhance the appearance and texture of hair. Brilliantine, a product that originated in the 19th century, was commonly used to add shine, smoothness, and a polished finish to hair. The crystallized version was typically a solid, wax-like substance that could be melted slightly and applied to the hair, giving it a sleek, glossy finish without being too greasy. This form was often used to add luster to shorter hairstyles, ensuring the hair remained in place while achieving a lustrous sheen.

The liquid brilliantine, on the other hand, was more versatile and convenient. It was applied by lightly dabbing or combing it through the hair, offering the same effect— a radiant shine and smooth texture. Both formulations were scented with the signature Ashes of Roses or Ashes of Violets fragrances, leaving a subtle but enduring fragrance in the hair. Brilliantines were particularly popular during the 1920s for women looking to achieve a polished, well-groomed look, complementing the sleek bob hairstyles and soft waves that defined the era.

 

Ashes of Roses & Violets Cigarettes:

Introduced in 1927, Bourjois offered a unique and luxurious product with their scented cigarettes, created by the Silver Perfumes Cigarette Company. These cigarettes were crafted by hand using the finest Virginia tobacco, ensuring a premium smoking experience. What set them apart from standard cigarettes was their subtle infusion of fragrance, with options of Ashes of Roses or Ashes of Violets perfumes. This delicate scent was intended to enhance the experience, adding a floral aroma that lingered as the cigarette was smoked.

The cigarettes themselves were described as "dainty," catering to the feminine market with their elegant appearance and refined scent. They were gold-tipped, which added a touch of glamour, and each cigarette was emblazoned with the distinctive Ashes of Roses flower vase motif. The packaging reflected the luxurious nature of the product, with boxes available in both 12 and 25 cigarette sizes. This offering was part of a broader trend in the 1920s, where fragrance-infused products extended beyond perfumes and cosmetics, as seen with Molinard’s Habanita-scented cigarettes. These scented cigarettes became an exotic and fashionable accessory, aligning with the refined tastes of the era's women who desired not only a stylish cigarette but also an added layer of fragrance and elegance.