Launched in 1936, Kobako by Bourjois is a perfume that stands out not only for its unique fragrance but also for its intriguing name. The term "Kobako" is derived from Japanese, where it translates to "perfume-box" or "scented box," and it refers to a lacquer or porcelain box used for storing incense. Pronounced as "koh-BAH-koh," the word evokes images of delicate craftsmanship, refined elegance, and a sensory experience tied to both fragrance and cultural symbolism. The association with a "perfume-box" suggests a treasured, almost sacred container for rare and precious scents, resonating with ideas of beauty and ritual. For women of the 1930s, particularly those attuned to global influences and trends, a name like Kobako would have conjured images of exoticism, luxury, and sophistication, drawing on the allure of Eastern traditions and the mystique of Far Eastern arts and culture.
The word "Kobako" in relation to scent would evoke a sense of deep, enveloping luxury. It conjures a perfume that is as much about the presentation and atmosphere as it is about the fragrance itself—a scent that would be housed in something as precious and alluring as a lacquered box. The perfume might be imagined as contained within a beautiful object, promising a fragrance that would linger and resonate, much like the incense stored in those precious boxes. In scent, it speaks to a luxurious, almost ritualistic experience, drawing upon the Eastern idea of treasured, often mystically rich scents held in reverence.
Kobako was created by renowned perfumer Ernest Beaux, with assistance from Constantin Mikhailovich "Kot" Weriguine, and it is classified as a warm leathery floral chypre fragrance for women. It is described as "heady," with rare wood species and jasmine as the dominant notes, providing a rich, sensual, and somewhat exotic olfactory experience. The fragrance is noted for its ability to hold better in fabrics and furs, positioning it as a perfume for brunettes of an exotic type—suggesting a scent that is both deep and striking, perhaps better suited to those with darker hair and a bold, sophisticated personality. The warm, woody, and floral elements would have made it a perfume that lingered on the skin and in the mind, creating an aura of mystery and sensuality.
In the context of the time period, the 1930s was a decade marked by a post-World War I desire for both opulence and escapism. The fragrance market was dominated by luxurious, bold, and often complex scents, as women sought perfumes that conveyed sophistication, sensuality, and, increasingly, a sense of independence. Brands like Chanel, Guerlain, and Jean Patou were pushing the boundaries of fragrance design, introducing aldehydes, rich florals, chypres, and oriental-inspired scents that conveyed exoticism and glamour. Kobako, with its rich woody notes and association with the East, would have fit well within this trend of embracing the exotic and the luxurious. Its emphasis on rare woods, jasmine, and the tactile quality of holding up in fabrics reflects the growing interest in complex, long-lasting perfumes that were deeply associated with the personal, intimate spaces of the wearer.
However, Kobako was distinct in that it not only followed the trends of the time but also carved out its niche by invoking an almost mystical, Eastern allure. The use of Japanese terminology in a European fragrance was a novel and bold choice, reflecting the fascination with the Orient that was prevalent in the 1930s, especially as global trade and cultural exchange expanded. In that sense, Kobako can be seen as both a product of its time and a unique offering, blending the established norms of the fragrance market with a sense of exoticism that would have set it apart from more traditional scents of the era. The perfume's warm, leathery floral chypre composition would have appealed to women looking for something distinct, heady, and daring in an era where boldness and individuality in fragrance were becoming increasingly valued.
In 1937, Harper's Bazaar reported a fascinating backstory about Kobako perfume, capturing the intrigue and mystique surrounding the fragrance. The magazine revealed that for over two decades, Kobako had been a closely guarded secret, known only to its creator and the beauty who wore it. This sense of secrecy added to the allure of the perfume, suggesting that it held an almost magical or mysterious power. The woman who wore Kobako was said to have an almost superstitious belief in the fragrance's ability to stir deep emotions, further fueling the mystique that surrounded it. The idea that Kobako could possess such an emotional influence speaks to the psychological connection that fragrance often holds, particularly in an era where perfumes were not just personal accessories, but potent tools for evoking mood, memory, and intimacy.
The Harper's Bazaar article went on to describe Kobako as "subtle, so seemingly remote, yet so persuasive to the senses," reinforcing its enigmatic quality. It was positioned as a fragrance that was both refined and elusive, capable of drawing the wearer and those around them into a world of captivating elegance. The perfume was described as the "exquisite, the thrilling gift for a charming American lady," appealing to women who were seeking something rare, sophisticated, and undeniably captivating. The fragrance’s subtle yet persuasive nature suggested that it was not overtly flashy, but rather sophisticated, a scent that would gradually reveal its complexity over time and leave a lasting impression on those who experienced it.
The bottle of Kobako itself was described as being of "Chinese design," a nod to the era's fascination with the exotic and the allure of the East. This reference likely reflects the broader cultural trend of the 1930s, when many luxury products, from perfumes to fashion, were heavily influenced by Eastern aesthetics. The inclusion of a Chinese-inspired bottle design tied Kobako to notions of mystery, elegance, and a refined, ancient world. The mention of "ancient China" not only heightened the perfume's aura of exoticism, but also suggested that it was imbued with the grace and timelessness of a rich cultural heritage. This blend of ancient inspiration and modern luxury appealed to the tastes of the time, when women were increasingly drawn to fragrances that felt both timeless and avant-garde.
In essence, the Harper's Bazaar description of Kobako portrayed the perfume as more than just a scent; it was a symbol of secret allure and emotional power, with a captivating and evocative design that promised a unique, unforgettable experience. Its subtlety and emotional depth made it an ideal choice for women looking for a perfume that was not only luxurious but also emotionally resonant, while the Chinese-inspired bottle design connected it to a broader cultural fascination with the East.
In 1936, Kobako by Bourjois was introduced to the world with an air of mystery and allure, evoking the elegance and exoticism of ancient China while blending modern French artistry. A newspaper advertisement for the fragrance painted a vivid picture of its appeal, incorrectly stating, “Kobako - Chinese for perfume container,” invoking a sense of cultural depth and timeless sophistication. The fragrance was presented as “a modern version of the glory of 12th century China,” conjuring images of imperial courts where luxurious perfumes filled the air, and the rich tradition of perfumed containers matched the grandeur of China's imperial art. Kobako was described as “mysterious, fascinating and whispering to her of thrilling adventure,” a perfume that promised not just a scent, but a journey into another world—one filled with exotic, faraway landscapes, and the unknown. The fragrance, with its blend of French craftsmanship and the subtleties of Chinese artistry, was said to have the allure of “an exotic Chinese vase,” captivating in both its presentation and scent. The word entrancing could not have been more fitting for such a delicate and enchanting perfume, poised to sweep women away into a fragrant dream.
The Kobako fragrance was further praised for its accessibility and universal appeal. A 1936 write-up from Reste Jeune expressed the anticipation surrounding the perfume's release: "Kobako...we can wish him the success of his elders." Here, Kobako was compared favorably with previous, iconic fragrances, suggesting that it carried the same excellence expected of Bourjois perfumes. The mention of the perfume being “accessible” indicated that, though mysterious and luxurious, it was designed to appeal to a wide audience. Women of the time were invited to experience a perfume of “excellent” quality that would resonate with their desires for both elegance and sophistication. The Kobako bottle itself was described as a work of art in its own right, housed in a “Chinese case in engraved red lacquer”—a presentation that was as much about the sensory experience of the fragrance as it was about the visual pleasure of its exquisite packaging. The mention of the lacquered case suggested a touch of opulence and cultural richness that elevated the perfume beyond just a fragrance, making it a prized object of desire.
In Vogue’s 1936 description of Kobako, the fragrance was captured as “amiable, nuanced like a polite Chinese phrase, fresh with warmth, persuasive.” The review highlighted the complexity of the perfume’s character, likening it to the politeness of a well-placed Chinese phrase—gentle yet powerful in its effect. The word “fresh” indicated an invigorating quality, while “warmth” added depth, creating a balanced contrast between the lively top notes and the enduring warmth of the base. The phrase “persuasive” suggested that, while subtle, Kobako was a fragrance that lingered and made a lasting impression, gently drawing those around the wearer into its mysterious and alluring world. This description not only conveyed the fragrance's aromatic complexity but also captured the ethos of an era that prized sophistication, exoticism, and the perfect fusion of cultures.
In sum, Kobako was more than just a perfume; it was a journey into an exotic world where the richness of Chinese artistry met the elegance of French perfumery. It was a scent meant to captivate, to intrigue, and to evoke emotions of mystery and adventure. The advertisements and reviews of the time painted Kobako as a fragrance of great allure, not only due to its scent but also because of its embodiment of a deeper cultural and artistic heritage. For the women of 1936, Kobako was an invitation to indulge in a world where luxury, refinement, and the mysterious East converged into a captivating and unforgettable experience.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a leathery floral chypre fragrance for women. .
- Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, grapefruit, lemon, cloves, cardamom, pepper, and cinnamon
- Middle notes: tuberose, gardenia, jasmine, iris, rose, magnolia, galbanum, carnation, orris, and lily
- Base notes: leather, patchouli, labdanum, Mysore sandalwood, olibanum, frankincense, amber, vanilla, oakmoss, musk, civet, benzoin, tonka bean, civet, and leather
Scent Profile:
Imagine yourself standing in the opulent, dimly lit chamber of an ancient Japanese palace. The air is thick with the scent of aged wood and the faintest trace of incense. In the center, upon a lacquered wooden table, rests a delicate kobako—a traditional perfume box, meticulously crafted with intricate carvings and a polished finish. The kobako, owned by a beautiful Empress, emanates a mysterious, enchanting aura. As you open its lid, a soft sigh escapes the box, releasing the captivating fragrance of Kobako.
The first breath is crisp, awakening the senses with aldehydes that swirl in the air, clean and airy, like the freshness of morning dew clinging to cherry blossoms. A sharp, bright citrus burst of bergamot, grapefruit, and lemon follows, cutting through the air like the early morning mist of a quiet garden. The scent of cloves and cardamom dances through the atmosphere, rich and spicy, like the delicate perfume of incense burned during ancient ceremonies. Pepper and cinnamon, warm and slightly pungent, seem to carry a sense of ritual, as if each spice is a note in a long-forgotten melody that resonates within the lacquered walls of this room. The air around you feels thick and velvety, as if the perfume is a physical presence, wrapping you in its allure.
As the top notes settle, the heart of the fragrance unfurls, a wave of floral richness like a bouquet of rare blossoms in full bloom. The scent of tuberose wraps around you, heady and intoxicating, a delicate, creamy floral that seems to pulse with life. Gardenia, soft yet daring, adds a lush, almost edible sweetness to the atmosphere, like the first bloom of spring in a secluded garden. Jasmine’s velvety touch follows, seductive and romantic, mingling with the rich, powdery scent of iris and orris, which bring an aristocratic elegance to the air. A soft, velvety rose petals the space with its timeless beauty, while magnolia whispers of forgotten gardens, lush with the weight of history. A faint trace of galbanum adds a green, resinous edge, grounding the florals with a faint earthiness, like the rich soil beneath the Empress’s favorite garden. Carnation, with its spicy-sweet scent, stirs the air like the delicate rustling of silk kimonos, and lily, soft and refined, dances like a gentle breeze through the room.
As the fragrance deepens, a rich and luxurious base begins to emerge. Leather, warm and tactile, wraps itself around the floral heart like the smoothest hide of a regal animal, its scent both comforting and commanding. The earthy richness of patchouli follows, deep and grounding, like the ancient trees in the Empress’s royal grove. Labdanum brings a resinous, almost smoky undertone, hinting at the secrets held within the lacquered box. Mysore sandalwood flows like warm, liquid gold, its creamy woodiness smooth and elegant, reminiscent of the Empress’s intricately carved furniture and sacred altars.
Olibanum and frankincense create a sacred atmosphere, their resinous, incense-like scent filling the air with the echoes of ancient rites and sacred devotion. Amber adds warmth, its honeyed, golden tone a soft contrast to the sharpness of the florals. Vanilla’s creamy sweetness enriches the fragrance, as if it were a luxurious touch added to a delicate silk kimono. Oakmoss, earthy and deep, reminds you of a timeworn temple, while musk and civet bring an animalic richness, like the earthy warmth of the Empress’s private gardens in the moonlight. Benzoin and tonka bean, with their soft sweetness and richness, close the fragrance with a lingering, comforting embrace, like the deep shadows cast by the palace’s ornate lacquered walls at dusk.
As you stand in the room, inhaling this rich, complex perfume, the atmosphere seems to shift. You feel the weight of history surrounding you, the fragrant whispers of time past, the delicate power of an Empress who once held this perfume in her hands. The sounds of the room are soft—the rustling of silk, the creaking of ancient wooden floors, and the distant hum of life outside the palace walls. You taste the faintest trace of sweetness on your lips, as if the perfume itself has entered your very being. The air is thick with mystery and elegance, and as you breathe in Kobako, you are transported into a realm of beauty and ancient ritual, where every note plays its part in an exquisite, timeless harmony.
Bottles:
Deluxe Presentation:
The frosted glass bottle for Kobako was an exquisite creation that captured the elegance of antique Chinese snuff bottles, evoking the splendor and mystique of ancient China. Manufactured by Verreries Brosse in France, the bottle was crafted with meticulous attention to detail, resembling a traditional Chinese snuff bottle, renowned for its intricate designs and craftsmanship. The bottle’s design was not the work of the celebrated glassmaker René Lalique, as is sometimes mistakenly attributed, but rather a unique piece created by Verreries Brosse, a respected glass company known for their high-quality work. The bottle's shape and aesthetic conveyed an air of authenticity, as though it had been handed down through generations of Chinese emperors, carefully preserved and now reimagined for a modern French fragrance.
The presentation case for Kobako further enhanced the bottle's allure, constructed from red and black galalith, often referred to as French Bakelite. This material was chosen for its ability to mimic the rich, textured look of aged cinnabar, a substance highly prized in Chinese art for its vivid red color and the way it was carved into intricate designs. The galalith case was crafted to reflect the carved, almost sculptural nature of cinnabar, adding a layer of luxury and depth to the fragrance’s presentation. The red and black hues of the case worked in harmony to evoke the opulence of ancient Chinese lacquerware, providing a striking visual contrast that highlighted the artistry of the bottle within. Together, the bottle and case formed a sophisticated pairing that linked French craftsmanship with the mystique of China’s imperial past, offering a modern yet timeless aesthetic to Kobako’s wearer.
The careful selection of materials and design for both the bottle and the presentation case was no accident. By drawing on elements of antique Chinese artistry, the Kobako packaging became an extension of the fragrance itself—an olfactory and visual experience that transported the wearer to an exotic world where East met West. The bottle's delicate craftsmanship and the luxurious case set Kobako apart from other perfumes of the time, furthering its allure as an enigmatic and desirable product.
In 1936, as the allure of Chinese influence on fashion and beauty continued to grow, Kobako emerged as a fragrance that both embodied and capitalized on this cultural fascination. The name Kobako was said to translate to "beautiful perfume container" in Chinese, an apt description given the exquisite design of the bottle and its packaging. According to the Drug and Cosmetic Industry publication of that year, the bottle itself was made of frosted glass, carefully crafted to resemble an ancient Chinese perfume bottle—a design steeped in the refinement of a bygone era. The frosted glass, soft yet elegant, evoked the tactile feel of a relic from the past, inviting the wearer to connect with the fragrance's deep, exotic heritage.
The packaging was equally as impressive, encasing the bottle in a striking Oriental red embossed plastic box, modeled after a Chinese lacquered cabinet. The base of the case was deep black, mirroring the traditional lacquer work seen in Chinese artifacts, while the cover radiated a dramatic glowing red, capturing the essence of the bold yet refined artistry of the East. This contrast between the dark base and vibrant red cover not only made the presentation visually stunning but also emphasized the ancient influence that inspired Kobako.
In Arts and Decoration (1937), the design was further lauded for its resemblance to a jewel-like flacon, with the deep black base and the cover’s glowing red tones evoking the rare, polished allure of Chinese lacquerware. The mention of a "dramatic glowing red" further amplified the fragrance’s striking and potent appeal, aligning perfectly with the mysterious and sophisticated atmosphere that Kobako sought to evoke. Together, the design of the bottle and its lacquered case conveyed an air of timeless elegance and exotic charm, transporting the wearer into a world of opulent luxury, where the artistry of the East met the refinement of the Wes
Less Expensive Bottles:
The smaller perfume bottle for Kobako was carefully housed in a charming cardboard presentation box, emphasizing both beauty and practicality. This packaging was designed to complement the elegance of the perfume it held, ensuring the bottle was both protected and beautifully displayed.
The exterior of the arched top box was covered with a decorative paper that mimicked the intricate chrysanthemum motifs found on the luxurious galalith boxes associated with Kobako. These floral patterns were likely chosen to evoke the same sense of refinement and delicacy as the original material, creating a cohesive aesthetic. The imitation chrysanthemum design not only highlighted the Japanese-inspired artistry behind Kobako's branding but also maintained the opulent visual appeal that consumers had come to associate with the fragrance.
Inside, the bottle is cradled by a sturdy cardstock base covered in sleek black paper accented with gold, imitating the black galalith base used for the deluxe edition. This thoughtful presentation allowed even smaller bottles to retain the luxurious experience of the larger, more elaborate packaging, ensuring that Kobako's identity as a sophisticated and artful perfume was preserved across all sizes.
Another distinctive version of the Kobako cardboard box presents a more straightforward design while maintaining the brand’s commitment to elegance. Unlike the arched-top style that emulated the galalith containers, this example features a clean and understated square shape. This geometric simplicity lends a modern touch to the packaging, offering a contrast to the more ornate designs typically associated with Kobako.
The heavy cardstock used in the box ensures durability, while its exterior is enveloped in a striking brick-red paper. This bold color choice provides a rich backdrop for the decorative accents, which include stylized chrysanthemums rendered in shades of black and gold. The chrysanthemums, a signature motif of Kobako, are elegantly arranged across the surface, their intricate details highlighted by the contrasting palette. These design elements create a harmonious balance between sophistication and subtlety, reinforcing the luxurious feel of the product.
Inside, the bottle is cradled by a sturdy cardstock base covered in sleek black paper. This inner lining not only offers structural support but also complements the exterior design, tying the entire presentation together with a refined cohesion. This version of the Kobako box exemplifies the brand’s ability to adapt its aesthetic while maintaining the hallmark elegance and quality that defined its packaging.
Mini Bottle:
A miniature version of Kobako was also produced, though it is quite rare and difficult to find today. This petite flacon maintained the essence of the original, with its elegant rectangular shape and gracefully curved shoulders. The bottle was molded with the same intricate floral design that adorned the larger, luxury-sized bottle, ensuring that even in miniature form, it mirrored the beauty and sophistication of its full-sized counterpart. The design, though smaller, still captured the essence of the exotic floral motifs that were synonymous with the Kobako fragrance, evoking the same sense of delicate craftsmanship and refinement.
Topping this miniature bottle is a red screw cap, simple yet fitting, maintaining the bold and refined color scheme that was so iconic in the Kobako line. The cap, though smaller, still carried the weight of the design’s aesthetic, acting as the perfect finishing touch to this diminutive treasure.
The presentation box for the mini bottle was just as thoughtfully designed. Made of red cardboard, it mirrored the opulent Bakelite case of the full-sized Kobako, embossed with floral designs that reflected the same artistry and craftsmanship. The box itself was a miniature replica of the larger case’s ornate detailing, echoing the deep red and textured patterns that made the packaging so alluring. This attention to detail in both the bottle and the box elevated the experience of owning the miniature Kobako, making it feel just as special and luxurious as its larger counterpart.
Purse Bottles:
Two versions of the purse bottles were manufactured, one is an open flower and the other is more tapered ovoid shape. The purse-sized Kobako flacons are rare and highly coveted pieces, especially sought after by collectors. These compact versions are crafted from clear glass, allowing the delicate floral motif molded into the bottle to stand out. The intricate design, reminiscent of the larger Kobako flacons, adorns the surface with a subtle elegance, giving the bottle a timeless, refined look. The floral pattern itself adds an extra layer of charm, capturing the essence of the fragrance within.
Topping the bottles is a red plastic screw cap, which complements the overall aesthetic with its bold color. The cap itself is finished with a small, silken tassel that dangles gracefully, adding a touch of luxury and femininity to the presentation. The tassel, soft and delicate, brings an air of opulence, as if each spritz of the fragrance were to be a small indulgence.
A small, round golden label is affixed to the side of the bottles, completing the look with a hint of gilded refinement. The label’s golden hue catches the light just enough to add a touch of glamour, without overwhelming the simplicity of the design. The purse-sized Kobako flacons are especially rare finds, making it a prized possession for those lucky enough to come across them. Their charm lies not only in their size and exquisite details but also in their scarcity, making them truly exceptional items in the Kobako collection.
The ovoid bottle measures approximately 2.5" tall. The rounded bottle measures 2.5" tall as well.
The photograph showcases three unique Kobako perfume bottles, each highlighting the brand's ability to marry form with function in distinctive designs.
The first bottle is the small Kobako parfum bottle, standing at an elegant 2.75 inches tall. Compact yet refined, this bottle is likely intended for housing the parfum, emphasizing its concentrated nature. Its diminutive size makes it ideal for personal use, exuding an air of intimacy and exclusivity. The proportions of this bottle suggest a design focused on showcasing the luxurious essence within, while maintaining an understated, timeless appeal.
The second is the mini bottle featuring a red screw cap. Measuring about 3 7/8 inches tall, this bottle provides a slightly larger option while retaining the portability associated with smaller perfume containers. The vibrant red cap adds a playful yet sophisticated pop of color to the otherwise minimalist design, ensuring it stands out as a functional and stylish accessory.
The third is the ovoid purse bottle, a strikingly unique piece characterized by its soft, rounded shape. Measuring approximately 2 1/2 inches in length (excluding the tassel), this bottle is designed for elegance on the go. Its brick-red screw cap is complemented by a decorative tassel, enhancing its charm and practicality for use as a portable fragrance. The tassel not only adds a touch of visual interest but also provides an easy grip, merging aesthetics with utility.
Each of these bottles embodies the artistic and functional philosophy of Kobako, offering collectors and users alike a variety of designs suited to different preferences and occasions.
17th Century Styled Bottles:
Two exceptionally rare bottles used for Kobako stand out as remarkable examples of perfume bottle artistry. These bottles, crafted from colorless glass, are distinguished by their elegant narrow, columnar shape, accentuated with gracefully arched shoulders. Their design is a deliberate homage to the antique glass bottles of the 17th century, embodying a timeless aesthetic that merges historical charm with modern refinement.
Each bottle is intricately engraved, with the patterns carefully designed to replicate the ornamental details found in antique pieces. This engraving not only enhances their visual appeal but also pays tribute to the craftsmanship of earlier centuries, aligning with the luxurious and sophisticated aura of the Kobako brand. To further accentuate their elegance, both bottles are adorned with metallic gold foiled paper labels. These labels, shimmering under the light, provide a striking contrast against the clear glass, adding an opulent touch to their minimalist silhouette.
Topping off the design is a ground-glass stopper, shaped like a tab. The stopper’s flat, functional design complements the slender profile of the bottle while maintaining the aesthetic harmony of the piece. Together, these elements create bottles that are not only containers for perfume but also exquisite artifacts, embodying the artistry and historical reverence that define Kobako’s legacy.
These rare Kobako bottles were produced in two distinct sizes, each tailored to house a specific concentration of the fragrance. The smaller version was designed to hold the parfum, emphasizing its precious and concentrated nature. Its more compact size aligns with the luxurious and intimate feel of a high-quality extrait, ideal for delicate application.
The larger version, in contrast, was used for the Eau de Toilette, reflecting its lighter and more generous character. This size allowed for more frequent use, catering to those who preferred the refreshing qualities of the fragrance in a less concentrated form. Despite the size differences, both bottles retained the same exquisite design elements, ensuring that whether one purchased the parfum or the Eau de Toilette, the presentation remained a statement of elegance and historical homage.
Powder Boxes:
The face powder box for Kobako was a stunning example of thoughtful packaging design, combining durability with artistic elegance. Crafted from heavy cardstock, the box exuded a sense of quality and sturdiness, ensuring the delicate product inside was well-protected. Its weight and construction reflected the meticulous attention to detail synonymous with Kobako’s offerings, elevating it beyond mere functionality to an object of beauty.
The exterior was covered with luxurious polychrome paper, embossed with a chrysanthemum motif. This intricate design brought depth and texture to the surface, making the box visually captivating and tactilely appealing. The chrysanthemum theme, an enduring symbol of refinement and longevity, was a deliberate nod to the Japanese-inspired aesthetic that defined Kobako’s identity. The use of multiple colors in the embossed paper further enhanced the motif, creating a rich and dynamic visual effect that mirrored the elegance and sophistication of the brand.
This combination of artistry and quality made the face powder box a keepsake in its own right, a testament to Kobako’s dedication to delivering not only superior products but also an unforgettable sensory experience from packaging to use.
Fate of the Fragrance:
The original Kobako fragrance, introduced by Bourjois in 1936, seemed to have its final moment in the spotlight by 1951, as the last known advertisement dates to that year. This suggests the perfume was discontinued shortly thereafter, closing the chapter on its initial run. For decades, Kobako remained a cherished memory of a bygone era, its legacy kept alive by collectors and perfume enthusiasts captivated by its Oriental allure and exquisite packaging.
1985 Reformulation & Reissue:
In 1985, the fragrance was given a second life when François Demachy, a renowned perfumer, reformulated it as an Eau de Toilette. This modernized version aimed to evoke the spirit of the original while adapting it to contemporary tastes. The relaunch offered a chance for a new generation to experience the enigmatic charm of Kobako, albeit in a lighter, less concentrated form than the original perfume.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a green floral oriental fragrance for women.
- Top notes: aldehydes, citrus notes, cloves, and cinnamon
- Middle notes: jasmine, iris, rose, magnolia, galbanum, carnation, orris, and lily
- Base notes: olibanum, frankincense, amber, vanilla, oakmoss, musk, civet, benzoin, tonka bean, and leather
Scent Profile:
As the bottle opens, a delicate swirl of aldehydes rises like a fine mist, crisp and bright, evoking the pristine freshness of polished porcelain in an airy chamber. The sharp, effervescent sparkle fades into a bouquet of citrus notes—lemon and bergamot lead, their sunny zest mingling with the softer bitterness of grapefruit. A surprising warmth follows as cloves and cinnamon unfurl their spiced, honeyed richness. The cloves are piquant yet sweet, while the cinnamon has an almost velvety smoothness, adding a luxurious, comforting depth. This opening feels like a morning breeze through an imperial Chinese garden, fragrant with blossoms and the faint aroma of exotic teas.
The heart of the fragrance blooms in a symphony of lush florals, each note as intricate as a brushstroke on lacquered art. Jasmine exudes its sultry, intoxicating sweetness, blending seamlessly with the powdery elegance of iris. Rose contributes its timeless, velvety softness, while magnolia lends a creamy, slightly citrusy note, reminiscent of moonlight on ivory petals. Galbanum introduces a sharp, green, resinous edge, balancing the florals with its herbaceous vibrancy. Carnation and orris root add a peppery, spiced depth and a silky, almost buttery texture. Lily completes the bouquet with its fresh, aquatic purity. Together, these notes create the olfactory impression of stepping into a lacquered "kobako" box, filled with the fragrant treasures of a noble empress’s garden.
As the florals recede, the base reveals its rich and sensual character. Olibanum and frankincense provide a smoky, resinous undertone, reminiscent of sacred rituals and ancient temples. Amber and vanilla add a golden warmth, sweet and smooth like caramel melting in the sun. The earthy, mossy embrace of oakmoss and the animalic sensuality of musk and civet weave a mysterious allure, grounding the fragrance in primal luxury. Benzoin and tonka bean contribute a balsamic sweetness, laced with hints of almond and honey. Leather emerges last, dark and supple, evoking the touch of fine lacquered goods or the interiors of a richly adorned chest. This base lingers like the memory of an imperial soirée, with every whiff evoking silken robes, softly glowing lanterns, and whispered secrets.
Together, these elements make Kobako a captivating fragrance that unfolds like a story, transporting the wearer to a world of timeless elegance, exotic mystery, and refined sensuality.
Bottles:
Fate of the Fragrance:
Despite its revival, the second iteration of Kobako also met an eventual discontinuation, though the exact date remains unclear. Advertisements show it was still available in 1988, indicating it lingered on the market for at least a few years. Today, both versions of Kobako are highly sought after by collectors and perfume aficionados, embodying the mystique of a fragrance that spanned decades while remaining distinctly tied to its origins in elegance, artistry, and the allure of the East.
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