Kobako by Bourjois c1936

Kobako was launched by Bourjois in 1936. Kobako is a chypre floral fragrance for women. Created by Ernest Beaux, who was assisted by Constantin Mikhailovich “Kot” Weriguine.

The name Kobako, refers to a lacquer or porcelain box containing incense, Kobako means "perfume-box" in Japanese.

In 1937, Harper's Bazaar reported that:

"So, for longer than two decades, KOBAKO perfume was the secret of only two people — its creator, and the beauty who used it. It is said that she had an almost superstitious belief in its power to stir the emotions. Today, Kobako Perfume, so subtle, so seemingly remote, yet so persuasive to the senses, is the exquisite, the thrilling gift for a charming American lady. In a bottle of Chinese design. KOBAKO BOURJOIS INSPIRED BY ANCIENT CHINA ."

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a leathery floral chypre fragrance for women.

• Top notes: aldehydes, citrus notes, cloves, and cinnamon
• Middle notes: gardenia, jasmine, iris, rose, magnolia, galbanum, carnation, orris, and lily
• Base notes: Mysore sandalwood, olibanum, frankincense, amber, vanilla, oakmoss, musk, civet, benzoin, tonka bean, and leather

Advertisements:

A 1936 newspaper advertisement reads:

"Kobako - Chinese for perfume container. Kobako - new and exciting perfume of Oriental allure - a modern version of the glory of 12th century China. Mysterious, fascinating and whispering to her of thrilling adventure. Matching the artistry of France with the subtle of an exotic Chinese vase. Kobako is entrancing."

Reste Jeune, 1936:

"Kobako, from Bourjois, has just appeared; we can wish him the success of his elders. This is the type of excellent perfume that most women like and are accessible to them (advantage to consider). Its presentation, in a Chinese case in engraved red lacquer, is most attractive."

Vogue, 1936:

"Kobako de Bourjois, amiable, nuanced like a polite Chinese phrase, fresh with warmth, persuasive."

Marie-Claire, 1937:

"Kobako by Bourjois: Heady. Dominant note: rare wood species, jasmine. Holds up better in fabrics and furs. For brunettes of an exotic type."

Bottles:

The bottle for Kobako is a replica of antique Chinese snuff bottle, and was manufactured by Verreries Brosse in France. This bottle was not designed or manufactured by Lalique, as I sometimes see this erroneously attributed. The red and black Bakelite presentation case was meant to imitate aged and carved cinnabar, I believe that Eduard Fornells made the case. 

Drug and Cosmetic Industry, 1936:

"With the Chinese influence strong in makeup and fashions, Bourjois is introducing a new Oriental fragrance in a typically Chinese container. Kobako," is the name of the new perfume, which we are told is translated to mean "beautiful perfume container" in Chinese. The bottle is of frosted glass, and said to be a copy of an ancient Chinese perfume bottle. It is encased in Oriental red embossed plastic box, which is a copy of a Chinese lacquered cabinet with a black base."

Arts and Decoration, 1937:

"Bourjois' newest perfume, "Kobako," in a jewel- like flacon copied from an ancient Chinese perfume bottle. Even the container is inspired by an old lacquered cabinet, also Chinese. The base is deep black and the cover is a dramatic glowing red."

A miniature version was also produced, this can be very hard to find. This bottle is rectangular in shape with curved shoulders, the bottle is molded with the floral design that matches the one on the luxury size bottle. A red screw cap tops the bottle. The presentation box used for the mini bottle is red cardboard and embossed with floral designs reminiscent of the Bakelite box's design.

photo by anicka

The purse size flacon, clear glass and molded with the floral motif. The bottle is topped off with a red plastic screw cap which ends with a silken tassel. The bottle has a small, round golden label. This is super rare to find.

photo by ebay seller xniide.

Fate of the Fragrance:

The last advertisement for Kobako I have found is dated 1951, so I assume the fragrance was discontinued around that time. It was discontinued for many years before being reformulated by François Demachy and relaunched in 1985.

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a green floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: aldehydes, citrus notes, cloves, and cinnamon
• Middle notes: jasmine, iris, rose, magnolia, galbanum, carnation, orris, and lily
• Base notes: olibanum, frankincense, amber, vanilla, oakmoss, musk, civet, benzoin, tonka bean, and leather

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