Clin d'Oeil by Bourjois c1984

 Launched in 1984, Clin d’Oeil by Bourjois emerged as a lively and engaging fragrance, created by renowned perfumers François Demachy and Jacques Polge. The name "Clin d’Oeil," which is French for "wink," captures a sense of flirtation, mischief, and charm. Pronounced as “klahn duh-yuh,” this phrase evokes an image of someone making a quick, playful gesture—a subtle yet deliberate act of acknowledgment or allure.

For women in the mid-1980s, the name "Clin d’Oeil" resonated with the playful confidence and bold individuality that defined the era. It suggested an effortless way to express one's personality, perhaps with a hint of mystery or cheeky fun. The phrase "wink" is universally understood as both an action and a metaphor, symbolizing charm, spontaneity, and sometimes, a secret shared between two people. As a name for a perfume, it conjures images of a woman exuding effortless charisma and leaving an indelible impression, much like the fleeting nature of a wink itself.

Interpreted as a scent, "Clin d’Oeil" could be imagined as light, sparkling, and bright—a burst of energy that doesn't overwhelm but leaves a memorable trail. The fragrance, classified as fresh, green, fruity, and floral, would embody this playful elegance. The green and fruity notes hint at vitality and youthful exuberance, while the floral heart provides an air of femininity and sophistication. Together, they evoke the spirit of a woman who can balance playful allure with refined grace.

The early 1980s marked a time of bold contrasts in the fragrance industry. Opulent, heavy perfumes like Dior's Poison (1985) and Yves Saint Laurent's Opium (1977) had captivated women seeking power scents that mirrored the decade’s embrace of extravagance. At the same time, lighter, fresher fragrances such as Calvin Klein’s Eternity (1988) and Cacharel’s Anaïs Anaïs (1978) catered to a growing preference for more delicate compositions. In this context, Clin d’Oeil’s green, fruity, and floral blend offered a fresh alternative, appealing to women who wanted something vibrant yet accessible.

Bourjois, known for its approachable, chic products, likely positioned Clin d’Oeil as a youthful and affordable way to partake in the glamour of fine perfumery. Its fresh and playful composition contrasted the more dramatic scents of the time, aligning it with a trend toward casual sophistication and dynamic femininity. Women of the era, embracing both their independence and sensuality, would have found Clin d’Oeil a fitting accessory for a variety of occasions, whether a daytime outing or an evening rendezvous.

Overall, Clin d’Oeil reflects the vibrant spirit of its time, encapsulating a playful, confident allure in both its name and its scent. It remains a charming example of Bourjois’ ability to create fragrances that resonate with the emotional and cultural currents of their era.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fresh, green, fruity, floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: aldehydes, lemon, basil, peach, wistaria, mint, marigold
• Middle notes: jasmine, ylang ylang, orange blossom, rose, cyclamen, lily of the valley
• Base notes: oakmoss, cedar, Mysore sandalwood, rosewood

Scent Profile:

Upon the first spritz of Clin d’Oeil, a burst of aldehydes greets the senses with a crisp, effervescent sparkle, like sunlight shimmering on morning dew. These airy, clean notes are underscored by the sharp zest of lemon, adding a tangy brightness that feels vibrant and energizing. Basil weaves through with its green, slightly spicy herbaceousness, grounding the citrus while offering an aromatic complexity. 

The soft, velvety sweetness of peach provides a subtle counterbalance, infusing the opening with a gentle fruitiness. Wistaria, a delicate floral with a hint of powder, adds a dreamy quality, while mint surprises with a cool, refreshing breeze that lifts the composition. Marigold rounds out the top notes with its unique bittersweet and slightly earthy nuance, anchoring the initial burst with a touch of warmth and mystery.

As the initial brightness mellows, the heart of Clin d’Oeil reveals itself—a lush, floral tapestry that feels both elegant and sensual. Jasmine takes center stage with its creamy, intoxicating richness, offering an opulent depth that evokes warm summer nights. Ylang ylang contributes a tropical sweetness, its slightly waxy and banana-like facets lending a sensuality that feels exotic and alluring. 

Orange blossom adds a bright, honeyed luminosity, like a sunlit orchard in bloom. Rose, soft and velvety, layers in a timeless romance, while cyclamen whispers a delicate, watery freshness that tempers the richness of the other florals. Lily of the valley, with its green, dewy charm, brings a sense of innocence and lightness, tying the bouquet together in a harmonious dance of contrasting textures.

As the fragrance settles, the base notes emerge, grounding the floral vibrancy with a sense of warmth and sophistication. Oakmoss provides an earthy, mossy backdrop, its slightly damp and woody character evoking the forest floor after rain. Cedar adds a dry, pencil-shaving sharpness, lending a touch of austerity that contrasts beautifully with the creamy richness of Mysore sandalwood. This prized variety of sandalwood contributes a smooth, milky warmth, with soft, almost buttery edges that feel comforting and luxurious. 

Rosewood, with its subtle, rosy-woody nuance, ties the base to the florals, ensuring a seamless transition between the heart and the dry-down. Together, these notes create a lingering impression that is both sensual and refined, leaving a trail of understated elegance.

From the sparkling effervescence of its opening to the lush floral heart and the grounding warmth of its base, Clin d’Oeil unfolds as a multifaceted composition. Each ingredient seems to play a role in creating a fragrance that is at once fresh, playful, and sophisticated. Smelling this perfume feels like embarking on a sensory journey—beginning with the crisp brightness of a dewy morning, moving through a blooming garden at its peak, and settling into the tranquil embrace of a wooded glen at sunset. It is an olfactory "wink," inviting wearers to embrace life’s playful, tender, and elegant moments.

 

Fate of the Fragrance:

Although Clin d’Oeil is no longer in production, its legacy continues to resonate with those who experienced it firsthand. It remains a fragrant snapshot of the mid-1980s, encapsulating the vibrancy, optimism, and playful elegance of its time. Each note, from the sparkling aldehydes to the warm embrace of sandalwood and oakmoss, is remembered fondly by those who wore it, making its absence all the more poignant.

Fragrances like Clin d’Oeil remind us of the ephemeral nature of scent itself—a fleeting yet powerful medium of memory and emotion. Though its bottle may now rest on the shelves of collectors and its name may be spoken in nostalgic tones, the essence of Clin d’Oeil lives on as a "wink" in the annals of perfumery history, a testament to Bourjois' ability to craft scents that enchant and endure.

Several flankers were launched:

• 1990 Clin d'Oeil Note Tendre
• 1999 Clin D`Oeil Passionné
• 1998 Clin D`Oeil Cosmic Girl
• 2000 Clin D`Oeil Urban Girl
• 2001 Clin d’Oeil Excentric
• 2008 Clin D`Oeil Sweet Kiss
• 2008 Clin D`Oeil Silver Dream
• 2009 Clin D`Oeil Lovely Girl
• 2009 Clin D`Oeil Porte Bonheur
• 2010 Clin D`Oeil Coup de Foudre
• 2010 Clin D`Oeil Lady Rock
• 2011 Clin D`Oeil Passionné Eau Fraiche

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