Mais Oui by Bourjois c1939

Mais Oui by Bourjois, launched in 1939, carried an intriguing and bold name that encapsulated the spirit of the era. The French phrase "Mais Oui" literally translates to "But Yes" in English. Pronounced "meh wee", it evokes a sense of confident affirmation, a playful and slightly teasing response, reflecting a certain lighthearted, yet assertive, charm. The phrase was widely used in France and beyond as an exclamation of enthusiastic agreement or approval, often imbued with a sense of elegance and wit. By naming their fragrance Mais Oui, Bourjois captured an essence of exuberance and femininity, aligning the perfume with a sense of modernity, sophistication, and a welcoming, yet irresistible energy. For women of the time, the name would have conveyed an image of carefree confidence, a statement of enjoyment and approval, an invitation to embrace the possibilities of life—both playful and seductive.

The scent itself, crafted by perfumer Constantin Mikhailovich "Kot" Weriguine, reflected this sense of assuredness and allure. Classified as a floral aldehydic perfume, Mais Oui shared similarities with the iconic Chanel No. 5, yet with a weightier, more sensual edge. Its aldehydic composition, which was a prominent trend during the 1930s, offered a modern, almost industrial cleanliness, lending a cool and sophisticated texture to the floral notes. However, Mais Oui distinguished itself through the use of Synarome's Animalis base, a blend of natural musk, civet, costus, and castoreum—ingredients known for their animalic, musky qualities. This animalic fixative provided a rich, warm undertone that contrasted with the cooler aldehydic top notes, creating a more sensuous and complex scent. It suggested an underlying depth, a richness that evoked both elegance and intimacy.

The launch of Mais Oui in 1939 occurred during a period when aldehydic floral fragrances were gaining significant popularity, following the success of Chanel No. 5 in the early 1930s. However, Mais Oui was distinct in its heavier, more sensual approach, a reflection of the changing attitudes toward femininity and scent. The 1930s were marked by the transition between the glamour of the Roaring Twenties and the more austere mood of the war years. Women were increasingly looking for fragrances that mirrored their complex roles in society: independent, elegant, but also full of depth and nuance. In this context, Mais Oui may have appealed to women who desired a scent that could both reflect their strength and allure, offering a fragrance that was at once floral and sensual, modern yet rooted in the animalic, earthy traditions of earlier perfumes.

In the larger context of the perfume market in the late 1930s, Mais Oui was part of the ongoing trend of aldehydic florals but stood apart by incorporating a more pronounced animalic base, making it feel more sultry and provocative compared to other perfumes of the time. It could be seen as Bourjois' attempt to combine the best of both worlds: the chic modernity of aldehydes with the timeless allure of sensuality, embodied by the animalic notes that defined its composition. Mais Oui was not just a fragrance; it was an invitation to live life with a sense of daring confidence, much like the phrase itself.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It was classified as a floral aldehydic perfume, similar to Chanel no. 5 but heavier and woodier. It made use of Synarome's Animalis base.

• Top notes: aldehydes, fruity notes of peach and plum
• Middle notes: clover, jasmine, rose, hyacinth, lily of the valley, narcissus
• Base notes: musk, birch tar, Mysore sandalwood, leather, civet, ambergris, castoreum, costus, tonka

Scent Profile:

Mais Oui opens with a burst of vibrant aldehydes, their crisp, almost soapy scent cutting through the air like a breath of fresh, sparkling air. It’s an effervescent quality that immediately captivates the senses, their sharpness softened by the sweet, ripe fruitiness of peach and plum. The fruit notes are luscious and juicy, with the peach offering a delicate fuzziness while the plum brings a deep, rich sweetness. Together, they create a mouthwatering, succulent quality that contrasts beautifully with the bright, airy aldehydes, like the first taste of a perfectly ripened fruit on a warm day.

As the aldehydes begin to settle, the floral heart of Mais Oui emerges, with the delicate scent of clover, a soft green note that feels both fresh and slightly honeyed. It intertwines with the heady sweetness of jasmine, whose rich, creamy white petals unfurl in the air, followed by the delicate warmth of rose, bringing a gentle yet unmistakable trace of romance. Hyacinth and lily of the valley follow, offering a floral bouquet that feels both innocent and elegant, with hyacinth lending its fresh, slightly waxy aroma and lily of the valley’s tender, bell-like sweetness evoking the essence of spring. The narcissus adds depth, its green, almost spicy undertones weaving through the delicate flowers, grounding the composition with an earthy, slightly bitter freshness.

But it’s the base of Mais Oui that truly envelops the wearer, a complex and sensual blend that adds layers of intrigue and warmth. The musk is prominent, its animalic richness giving the fragrance an undeniable sensuality, deep and warm, like skin that’s been kissed by the sun. The birch tar is smoky and leathery, evoking images of well-worn, polished boots with their earthy, ashy scent that hints at the wild outdoors. Mysore sandalwood adds its creamy, velvety smoothness, softening the harsher notes with its deep, woody sweetness that feels luxurious and timeless. The civet adds an intoxicating animalic quality, raw and musky, with a sultry warmth that enhances the perfume's intimate, skin-like aura. 

Ambergris, with its salty, oceanic nuances, adds a mysterious, almost enigmatic complexity, creating a sense of depth and distance. Castoreum’s leathery, slightly smoky undertone blends with the animalic notes, adding a raw, primal edge that brings tension to the otherwise smooth composition. The costus, with its unique, somewhat earthy scent, imparts a subtle warmth, a touch of animalic sweetness that lingers in the background, creating a seductive, untraceable layer of mystery. Finally, tonka bean rounds out the base with its sweet, slightly spicy, and nutty warmth, offering a soft, comforting finish that balances out the more intense, animalic aspects of the fragrance.

Together, these notes form an elegant, sensual composition—floral and aldehydic at first, but evolving into a rich, animalic, and woody scent that speaks of sophistication and mystery. Mais Oui is a fragrance that captures both innocence and seduction, a bold and confident perfume that invites attention without saying a word.

Scent Story:

The evening has come to a close, and in the soft glow of candlelight, the courtesan leans against the headboard of her bed, her body relaxed after a night of endless indulgences. The silence of the room is broken only by the occasional rustle of the wind through the open window. The scents of the evening linger—faint traces of perfume and remnants of fleeting moments. The lily of the valley posy, a symbol of good luck and prosperity, lies undisturbed on her bedside table, its delicate fragrance mingling with the other odors of the room. She touches it lightly, the soft white blooms still holding onto a fresh and floral note, a reminder of a man’s parting gift, now pushed aside as she contemplates the more tangible pleasures at hand.

Turning her attention to the fruit basket filled with peaches and plums, she picks up a plump, juicy plum. Its skin is smooth and taut under her fingers, and as she bites into it, the sweetness floods her senses. The cool juice, a sharp contrast to the warmth of her skin, drips down her chin. The fruit’s scent, ripe and succulent, clings to her fingers, a simple, earthy pleasure after a night spent surrounded by more intoxicating indulgences. She places the pit aside and sinks into the rumpled blankets of her bed, the woolen fabric warm from the heat of her body, now cooling off in the evening breeze.

Her hair, unkempt and tangled from the demands of the evening, rests carelessly against the pillow, emitting a smell not unlike costus. A silken curl still clings to her finger as she absently twirls it, the faint trace of rosewater lingering on the strands, a reminder of the care she took earlier in the day. Her body, slightly damp from the heat of the night, slowly cools in the refreshing air that seeps through the window, carrying with it the intoxicating scent of night-blooming jasmine from a neighboring garden. It is heady and rich, adding a touch of sultriness to the evening air, the flower’s dark sweetness blending with the night’s stillness.

She closes her eyes, the image of her last customer still vivid in her mind. His rugged, masculine presence lingers with her—an unexpected memory of animal musk, the deep scent of birch tar from his leather boots. She can almost feel the warmth of his body, the way he leaned in close, his scent now woven into the very air of her room, mingling with the spicy, sultry undertones of tonka bean and creamy sandalwood. A distant, animalic trace of castoreum and ambergris weaves through the mix, the heady combination of sensuality and masculinity almost tangible. It is the kind of scent that clings to her long after he’s gone, a reminder of the complex encounters she navigates each night.

Her own fragrance, a delicate gift from a past suitor, is more subtle—a fresh blend of narcissus, hyacinth, and clover. It lingers faintly on her skin, a light, floral signature that contrasts with the weightier, more daring aromas of the men who’ve come and gone. It’s a scent that evokes femininity, a fleeting reminder of gentler moments amidst the chaos of her life. She inhales deeply, savoring the contrast of her own perfume and the scents of her customers, a balance of innocence and experience.

But then, the spell is broken by an unexpected odor—something foul and intrusive. It is the faint, unpleasant scent of the chamber pot tucked discreetly under the bed. The smell is a reminder of the more mundane realities of her existence, a jarring contrast to the ethereal fragrances that have enveloped her all evening. It cuts through the luxurious haze of perfume, bringing her back to the gritty, unromantic undercurrents of her life in the bordello. And yet, even this scent—unpleasant as it is—seems to have its place in the tapestry of the evening, a final, grounding note to a night that was as layered and complex as the scents that filled the air.

 

 

The New Yorker, 1942:

"Bourjois: The new Courage, for carnation-lovers, and Mais Oui, still a favorite among women who like gaiety with their sex appeal."

The New Yorker, 1943:

"Mais Oui, a good, carefree, rollicking scent."

Product Line:

The Mais Oui fragrance line, launched by Bourjois in 1939, was designed to offer a complete sensory experience, encompassing not only perfume but also a range of complementary beauty products. The brand ensured that Mais Oui could be enjoyed in various forms, allowing women to immerse themselves fully in the seductive and confident essence that the fragrance embodied.

The parfum, the most concentrated and luxurious form of the fragrance, was likely the jewel of the collection. This rich, intimate version of Mais Oui would have provided an enduring scent that lingered on the skin, with its bold aldehydic floral notes and sensual animalic undertones. The parfum would have been a precious indulgence, meant for those moments when a woman desired to feel her most alluring and confident.

In addition to the parfum, Mais Oui was also offered in an eau parfumée, which was essentially the equivalent of what we now call an eau de cologne or toilet water. This lighter version of the fragrance would have been perfect for daily wear, offering a more subtle, refreshing experience while still carrying the signature floral and animalic elements of the perfume. The eau parfumée allowed the wearer to carry the fragrance with them throughout the day, offering a more delicate expression of the bold personality that Mais Oui conveyed.

To further enhance the experience, Bourjois introduced a solid cologne stick in the Mais Oui line. This portable and practical product allowed women to refresh their fragrance on-the-go, applying it directly to the skin with the ease of a stick format. Its solid form also made it a perfect travel companion, ensuring that the fragrance could be with the wearer at all times, no matter the occasion.

The line also included dusting powder, a luxurious and comforting product that added an extra layer of fragrance while providing the skin with a soft, smooth finish. The light, airy powder would have been perfect for daily use, subtly enveloping the body in the signature Mais Oui scent. It would have appealed to women who enjoyed a more refined form of fragrance application, adding a touch of elegance to their morning ritual.

In keeping with the comprehensive beauty experience, Mais Oui also extended into the world of makeup, offering rouge, lipstick, and face powder. The inclusion of these products reflected the full beauty philosophy of Bourjois, ensuring that a woman could embody the essence of Mais Oui not just through fragrance but through every aspect of her personal care routine. The rouge and lipstick, with their rich, flattering colors, would have enhanced the wearer’s natural beauty, allowing them to complete the confident and bold aesthetic that the perfume suggested. The face powder would have provided a smooth, velvety finish, ensuring that a woman’s complexion matched the refined, elegant aura of the Mais Oui fragrance.

Together, these products formed a cohesive line that allowed women to envelop themselves in the signature allure of Mais Oui, creating an aura of sensuality, confidence, and modernity that lasted throughout the day and into the evening. The full range of products reflected Bourjois’ understanding of the modern woman’s need for a complete beauty experience, from the fragrance she wore to the makeup and body products she used to complete her look.

 

Bottles:

The perfume was originally housed in a frosted glass flacon by Verreries Brosse. Around 1947, a clear, unfrosted version of this bottle was introduced. The purse flacon was made up of clear glass and was topped off with a blue plastic screw cap adorned with a tassel. The mini perfume was a replica of the standard size parfum bottle but instead of a glass stopper, it was made up of a fan shaped blue plastic.

Eau Parfumee bottle, circa 1940.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Mais Oui, a fragrance that captured the essence of elegance and allure, was still available in 1961, making its mark during a time when the perfume market was rapidly evolving. This was an era when the demand for both classic and innovative fragrances was on the rise, with the world of perfumery embracing modern ingredients while still holding on to the beloved scents of the past. Mais Oui, with its aldehydic floral composition and musky, animalic base, stood out as a bold choice in a sea of lighter, more subdued perfumes. It maintained its presence in stores, offering women a perfume that was both sophisticated and daring—perfect for those who craved a fragrance that could make a statement. However, as time marched on, the perfume gradually fell out of favor, perhaps due to shifting tastes and changing trends in fragrance composition.

Despite its eventual discontinuation, Mais Oui has left a lasting impression in the world of vintage perfumes. Bottles of the fragrance still surface occasionally in online markets or antique stores, though they are often found empty, their contents long gone. These bottles, now considered rare treasures, offer a glimpse into a bygone era, holding within them the memory of the scent that once captivated women with its complex blend of aldehydes, florals, and animalic notes. The empty bottles evoke a sense of nostalgia and curiosity, as collectors seek them out not just for the fragrance itself, but for the history they represent—a piece of perfume history from an era when Mais Oui was a symbol of bold femininity and refined elegance.