Chicote by Bourjois c1934

Chicote by Bourjois, launched in 1934, was marketed as "the modern man's perfume" and was described as a fragrance designed for gentlemen. The name "Chicote" carries with it a strong connection to a figure of high distinction in the world of cocktail culture: Pedro Chicote Serrano, the famed bartender and mixologist of mid-century Spain. 

Chicote is a Spanish word. It primarily refers to a type of whip or lash, typically used for driving or controlling animals. In a broader sense, it can also be used to describe something that is sharp or striking in nature. Chicote is pronounced "shee-koh-teh," with emphasis on the first syllable. The name itself is a nod to Pedro Chicote's iconic status—his bar, Bar Chicote, became the haunt of Spain’s young and affluent clientele, and he became a household name in the world of bartending. As a self-promoter, Chicote was known not just for his impeccable bartending skills but also for his flair in creating a brand, even adding a museum to his bar and founding the Asociación de Barmans Españoles (ABE) in 1964. Naming the fragrance after him was a clever marketing move, aimed at capturing the essence of modern sophistication, class, and masculinity that Chicote personified.

The word "Chicote," though immediately associated with a man of refinement and the world of cocktails, carries a dynamic energy, evoking images of a well-dressed gentleman confidently entering a bustling bar, the clinking of glasses and the refined scent of cologne accompanying him. It speaks of elegance, modernity, and the allure of nightlife—an era of men who took pride in their appearance and style, and who were keen to make an impression in the world of social gatherings. Chicote suggests a masculine yet delicate fragrance that combines strength with a subtle, refined sensuality, much like the bartenders of the time who exuded charisma and sophistication while preparing cocktails with expert precision.

 

The 1930s, the period in which Chicote was launched, was a time of transition—caught between the lingering effects of the Great Depression and the anticipation of a new, modern era. This decade, part of what is often referred to as the Art Deco period, was characterized by innovation, glamour, and a sense of escape. Fashion during this time embraced clean lines, with men favoring sharp suits, bow ties, and well-groomed hair. The rise of jazz music and the popularity of speakeasies, despite Prohibition's end in 1933, helped cultivate a culture of elegance and leisure, where cocktails were an integral part of social life. Men of this era were discovering new forms of self-expression through their fashion and lifestyle, and a fragrance like Chicote would have appealed to their desire to stand out while embracing a modern, cosmopolitan image.

In terms of fragrance, Chicote stood out in an era where men’s fragrances were beginning to gain popularity, though they were still in their infancy compared to women’s perfumes. While the market was saturated with floral or powdery fragrances for women, there was a demand for more assertive, masculine scents that could reflect a man’s personality and lifestyle. Chicote would have been unique for its time by embracing this notion of masculinity combined with a delicate sophistication, with the influence of its namesake providing an element of allure tied to the world of cocktails and nightlife. The fragrance would have likely been interpreted as a bold yet refined choice—a perfume with the elegance and charisma of a well-mannered man of the world.

Men of the period would have likely connected with Chicote as a fragrance that embodied the new era of masculinity—one that was urbane, confident, and knowledgeable. The scent would have been seen as both modern and refined, a fragrance that suited the stylish, well-dressed man who was making his mark in society. The scent itself would have been interpreted as fresh, invigorating, and sophisticated, much like the drinks served in Pedro Chicote's bar—well-balanced, yet with a distinctive edge. By associating Chicote with the legendary bartender, Bourjois also aligned the perfume with the spirit of creativity and indulgence, invoking a sense of refined pleasure. It wasn’t just a fragrance—it was a statement of identity for the modern man of the 1930s, one who was confident in his tastes, his style, and his place in the world.

Bottles:

Chicote by Bourjois was available in a variety of elegant formats, including "Luxury" perfume, cologne, soap, shaving cream, and lotion. This extensive product range ensured that the sophisticated Chicote scent could accompany its wearer through every aspect of his grooming routine. The fragrance was housed in a refined presentation, similar to that of the Bourjois men's fragrance Seymour, which further emphasized its status as a luxury item.

The packaging for Chicote was as carefully crafted as the fragrance itself. The perfume came encased in a cardboard box designed to resemble natural wood. The box measured 10 centimeters long, 6 centimeters wide, and 3 centimeters thick, providing a solid, yet elegant foundation for the fragrance. Engraved on the lid were the words "Chicote" Perfume for Gentlemen - Bourjois - Paris - France, a simple yet striking representation of the perfume’s distinguished lineage. Inside, the fragrance was presented in a sleek flask-shaped black glass bottle with rounded shoulders by Verreries Brosse that exuded masculinity and sophistication. The bottle itself was adorned with a small silver label bearing the same engraved text. Its glass stopper provided a sense of refined simplicity, while the cylindrical nickel plated brass over-cap, pressed into a matching ring around the bottle’s neck, further emphasized the attention to detail and craftsmanship. The overall presentation spoke to the luxurious nature of Chicote, a fragrance designed for the modern man, refined in both scent and presentation.

Fate of the Fragrance:

The Wertheimer brothers, who were Jewish and owned Parfums Bourjois during the 1930s, may have faced unique challenges during the politically charged years leading up to and during World War II. Bourjois launched Chicote, a men's fragrance, in 1934, named after the renowned Spanish bartender Pedro Chicote Serrano. Chicote, famed for his innovative cocktail recipes and his establishment, Bar Chicote, symbolized the glamour and sophistication of Spain during the pre-war era. The fragrance's association with a Spanish figure was likely meant to evoke the spirit of cosmopolitan elegance and high society, qualities that aligned with the aspirations of modern, affluent men at the time.

However, as the global political landscape shifted, particularly with the rise of fascism and the ongoing tensions of the Second World War, public sentiment around associations with fascist-aligned nations, such as Spain under Francisco Franco, may have begun to shift. Franco's regime, although officially neutral, had sympathies with the Axis powers, particularly Nazi Germany. This made Spain's political atmosphere increasingly sensitive in the eyes of the public, particularly among those who were staunchly opposed to fascism, such as the Jewish community.

As Jewish business owners, the Wertheimer brothers would have been highly attuned to the political climate, as well as the shifting cultural and social dynamics during this period. Anti-Spanish sentiments, whether due to Spain's neutrality or its association with fascism, could have influenced public opinion and led to declining sales or even reputational risks for Bourjois. The wartime environment may have prompted the company to reconsider the marketing of Chicote, particularly as European nations were embroiled in conflict and any potential connection to a controversial regime could lead to backlash.

By 1938, Chicote was still available for sale, but it was eventually discontinued, likely as a response to the increasing tensions surrounding Spain's political affiliations and the general wartime atmosphere. The decision to phase out Chicote might have been an effort to protect the brand’s image, as the fragrance’s connection to Spain could have been viewed as problematic during such a tumultuous period. As a result, the perfume's demise may have been tied to the growing sensitivities of the time, including the rise of fascism, public disapproval of Spain’s political stance, and the personal and professional challenges faced by Jewish business owners during World War II.