Le Premier Muguet by Bourjois c1912

Launched in 1912, Le Premier Muguet by Bourjois embodies a timeless tribute to the beloved lily of the valley, known as "muguet" in French. The name translates to "The First Lily of the Valley," pronounced luh pree-myay moo-gay. This elegant choice of name reflects both the French reverence for the flower and the emotions tied to its symbolic meaning. For centuries, lilies of the valley have been a cherished emblem of good luck in France, gifted and worn each year on May 1st as corsages and boutonnieres to celebrate the arrival of spring and to wish for prosperity and happiness.

The words "Le Premier Muguet" evoke a delicate, pastoral charm, conjuring images of fresh blooms in dewy undergrowth, verdant forests alive with new growth, and the soft sunlight of an early May morning. This imagery is deeply entwined with feelings of optimism, renewal, and hope—a nod to both the season and the cultural heritage of France. For women of the early 20th century, a perfume called Le Premier Muguet would have been an elegant and sentimental choice, connecting them to the traditions of May Day while capturing the fleeting beauty of springtime in a bottle.

The scent itself is a soliflore, focusing on the purity and delicacy of lily of the valley. This choice was significant during a time when perfumery was undergoing a shift. While earlier fragrances often featured complex "bouquet" compositions, the early 20th century saw the rise of perfumes that celebrated single floral notes. Le Premier Muguet aligned with this trend, yet stood out for its simplicity and authenticity. It distilled the essence of spring into a fresh, subtle fragrance, appealing to women seeking a light, natural, and distinctly feminine scent.

The year 1912 marked a period of innovation and elegance in perfumery. Other floral fragrances, such as Guerlain’s Après L’Ondée (1906), reflected the same fascination with nature’s fleeting beauty. However, Bourjois distinguished itself by choosing the understated yet culturally rich lily of the valley as its centerpiece. The perfume’s connection to French traditions, its lightness, and its poetic resonance made it both relevant and unique in the burgeoning world of modern perfumery.

In a marketplace dominated by intricate florals and opulent compositions, Le Premier Muguet was a breath of fresh air—delicate, intimate, and rooted in a sense of place and tradition. It captured not just a scent but a story, weaving the symbolism of May Day into a fragrance that remains a timeless ode to nature and renewal.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a simple floral fragrance for women, all the delicateness of the lily of the valley in a very fresh soliflore perfume. ..the subtlety of spring and undergrowth.

• Top notes: hydroxycitronellal, linalol, terpineol, nerol methyl acetophenone, neroli, bergamot
• Middle notes: jasmine, lily of the valley, rose, orris, tuberose, acacia, orange blossom, ylang ylang
• Base notes: tonka bean, bitter almond, vanilla, castoreum, musk, civet, sandalwood, benzoin, cardamom, oakmoss

Scent Profile:

The journey begins with the delicate shimmer of hydroxycitronellal, evoking the dew-kissed petals of freshly bloomed flowers. Its subtle sweetness is intertwined with the soft, floral sharpness of linalool, reminiscent of sunlight filtering through the trees. Terpineol brings a clean, slightly pine-like touch that calls to mind a shaded grove, while the gentle green-floral aroma of nerol carries an airy brightness. Methyl acetophenone adds a hint of powdery, almond-like nuance, while the citrus spark of neroli and bergamot awakens the senses with a crisp, zesty freshness, like a morning breeze in a blossoming meadow.

The heart of the fragrance is a lush bouquet where jasmine exudes its opulent, creamy allure, balanced by the delicate, almost crystalline beauty of lily of the valley, the star of the scent. Rose lends a classic, velvety richness, while orris contributes a powdery sophistication. The exotic decadence of tuberose mingles with the soft, honeyed sweetness of acacia. Orange blossom brings a radiant, white floral brightness, and ylang-ylang infuses the heart with a smooth, slightly spicy warmth, rounding out the floral tapestry with elegance.

As the perfume settles, the base notes emerge, grounding the fragrance in a warm, sensual embrace. Tonka bean offers a rich, sweet-spicy creaminess, underscored by the nutty warmth of bitter almond and the comforting sweetness of vanilla. Castoreum and civet introduce a subtly animalic depth, their natural muskiness enhancing the perfume's complexity. Musk adds a soft, clean, and slightly powdery finish, while the creamy woodiness of sandalwood intertwines with the resinous, balsamic sweetness of benzoin. A touch of cardamom lends a whisper of spicy warmth, while the earthy richness of oakmoss evokes the scent of damp spring soil, completing the undergrowth inspiration.

Le Premier Muguet is a celebration of spring’s ephemeral beauty, a soliflore that captures the essence of lily of the valley while weaving a rich tapestry of complementary notes. Each inhale evokes the freshness of a sunlit forest glade, the delicate interplay of blossoms and greenery, and the promise of renewal and growth that comes with the season.

Original Bottle:

The original bottle for Le Premier Muguet was a crystal flacon fitted with a cut crystal lapidary stopper.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown. Last newspaper advertisement found was for 1918.

1955 Reformulation & Reissue:

Premier Muguet by Bourjois was relaunched in 1955. Created by Henri Robert.

"Centuries of tradition have made lilies of the valley the symbol of good luck in France, and every year on the first of May, these delicate little flowers ("muguet" they say in French) are worn as corsages and boutonnieres. Here the delicate floral fragrance is caught by Bourjois in a new "Premier Muguet" perfume and "Muguet" cologne, bottled in bell-shaped containers designed to simulate the flowers for which both are named."

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown. Still sold in 1978.