Ramage by Bourjois c1949

Launched in 1949 and introduced to the U.S. market by 1951, Ramage by Bourjois captured the imagination of a post-war era yearning for sophistication and optimism. The name "Ramage," derived from French, refers to the song of birds and the foliage of trees. Pronounced as “rah-MAHZH”, the word evokes a sense of lyrical beauty, natural harmony, and serene elegance. Its poetic quality aligns perfectly with the fragrance's character, which blends acute, contrasting notes into a symphony of olfactory artistry.

For women of the late 1940s and early 1950s, the name "Ramage" would have conjured images of verdant forests, dappled sunlight, and the joyous melodies of birdsong. These natural elements spoke to a world that, after the turmoil of World War II, sought renewal, beauty, and tranquility. As a perfume, the name hinted at a composition that was both refined and emotive—a fragrance that could transport the wearer to a realm of serene elegance while still exuding a confident sensuality.

The leathery floral semi-oriental (chypre) structure of Ramage, created by the illustrious perfumers Henri Robert and Constantin Mikhailovich “Kot” Weriguine, reflected the sophistication implied by its name. It opened with the sharp brightness of aldehydes, a signature of the era, paired with the intoxicating richness of jasmine. These acute top notes announced the fragrance with boldness and elegance, capturing attention like the first trill of a bird’s song.

As the fragrance evolved, its chypre heart emerged with the earthy depth of oakmoss, vetiver, and patchouli. These notes added complexity, evoking a woodland ambiance—a tapestry of mossy shadows and dappled sunlight. The base, with its warm, resinous amber and exotic balms, introduced a sensual richness. This dry-down, anchored by woody and leathery undertones, enveloped the wearer in an aura of understated opulence, contrasting the brightness of its opening with a lingering, warm sensuality. The peppery, slightly piquant nuances further enhanced its multifaceted character, making it bold yet refined.

Ramage was emblematic of its era, yet it stood apart from many contemporaries in its daring contrasts. The late 1940s and early 1950s were dominated by aldehydic florals like Chanel No. 5 (1921) and Carven’s Ma Griffe (1946), as well as romantic florals such as Miss Dior (1947). While these fragrances celebrated elegance and femininity, Ramage offered a more layered and intriguing take on the post-war woman's identity. Its leathery floral semi-oriental structure and chypre richness spoke to a growing desire for fragrances that conveyed depth, independence, and sensuality.

For export markets, Bourjois renamed the fragrance "Endearing" to avoid trademark conflicts, a name that softened its French sophistication for international audiences. Yet, the essence of Ramage remained the same: a poetic and harmonious blend that celebrated contrasts—light and shadow, nature and sophistication, brightness and warmth.

 

Even decades after its discontinuation, Ramage endures in memory as a masterful composition that captured the beauty of its time. It was not merely a perfume but an olfactory embodiment of elegance, resilience, and sensuality—a "song" as enduring as the women who wore it.

 

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a leathery floral semi-oriental (chypre) fragrance for women.. Acute notes of aldehydes and jasmine, oak moss, vetiver, patchouli, amber and exotic balms. A peppery scent, rich scent and contrast, warm and sensual with amber and wood notes.

• Top notes: bergamot, lemon, Paraguay petitgrain, aldehydes, mint, watercress
• Middle notes: jasmine, pepper, rose, hyacinth, orris root, lily of the valley, daffodil, wisteria
• Base notes: vanilla, leather, vetiver, labdanum, Mysore sandalwood, oakmoss, leather, ambergris, musk, patchouli

Combat, 1954:

"Eau Ramage by Bourjois -She appears, laughing playfully beneath her delicate parasol, exuding an air of carefree elegance. The flowers adorning her printed dress seem to breathe their fragrance into the world—a soft medley of tender daffodils, sweet vanilla nuances, and the twilight-kissed aroma of wisteria blossoms. A subtle, finely musky background lingers around her, adding an air of mystery and allure. 

A hint of mint and the unexpected freshness of watercress cut through the sweetness, adding a crisp, refreshing edge. This delicate interplay of notes creates a light, ethereal mist, playful and teasing, as if to challenge the sultry weight of a tropical evening. It is a fragrance that dances between light and shadow, perfectly capturing a moment of grace and joy."

Scent Profile:

 As the journey begins, the top notes of Ramage awaken the senses with an invigorating burst of brightness. The sharp citrus tang of bergamot and lemon is crisp and refreshing, evoking the clean zest of freshly peeled fruit. This vibrancy is softened by petitgrain, which adds a green, slightly woody nuance, while aldehydes impart an airy, soapy effervescence, reminiscent of morning light filtering through crisp linens. 

A whisper of mint refreshes the bouquet with a cool, herbaceous sharpness, while the unusual touch of watercress surprises the nose with its peppery, green vibrancy—a lively introduction that teases with unexpected complexity.

As the heart of the fragrance unfolds, a lush floral symphony emerges. Jasmine takes center stage, its heady, indolic sweetness radiating an opulent, intoxicating charm. Rose adds a classic, velvety richness, balancing the boldness of jasmine with an understated elegance. Hyacinth and lily of the valley lend a delicate, dewy freshness, reminiscent of spring mornings in a blossoming garden. 

The powdery depth of orris root anchors the florals, adding a cool, earthy sophistication. Daffodil and wisteria weave through the blend, their unique, soft sweetness evoking images of a sunlit meadow alive with color. Intertwined within these florals is a piquant whisper of pepper, sharpening the composition with a tantalizing warmth that hints at the richness to come.

In the base notes, Ramage transforms into a warm and sensual embrace, grounding the brightness and florals in deep, resonant richness. Oakmoss introduces a mossy, earthy foundation, evoking the damp, shaded woods where nature’s secrets linger. Vetiver adds a smoky, grassy depth, its dryness harmonizing with the leathery undertones that exude strength and confidence. 

Labdanum and ambergris lend an animalic warmth, their resinous and salty nuances adding complexity and allure. Sandalwood and patchouli provide a creamy, woody richness, their contrasting tones of soft sweetness and earthy darkness forming a captivating interplay. Vanilla softly sweetens the composition, while musk enhances its sensuality, enveloping the wearer in a warm, skin-like aura.

The leathery accords of Ramage are unmistakable, threading through the fragrance like a luxurious ribbon. They add a bold, tactile quality, balancing the softness of the florals and the smoothness of the amber with a grounded strength. Exotic balms weave throughout the base, their resinous, spiced tones evoking a timeless sophistication.

Ramage is a fragrance of contrasts—bright and soft, floral and earthy, bold and warm. Its notes harmonize into a composition that feels alive, each layer revealing new dimensions. It is an olfactory portrait of elegance, complexity, and sensuality, resonating with the timeless beauty of nature and the sophistication of the woman who wears it.

 

Fate of the Fragrance:

Launched in 1949, Ramage by Bourjois entered the post-war fragrance world as a symbol of renewal and sophistication. Its intricate blend of notes captivated wearers with a unique combination of lightness and depth, making it a beloved choice for women who sought both charm and sensuality in their perfume. Bourjois, known for its creativity and accessible luxury, positioned Ramage as an expression of the confident, modern woman—a woman who embraced contrasts and found beauty in the harmonious interplay of nature’s richness and refined artistry.

The fragrance’s longevity on the market speaks to its enduring appeal. By 1978, Ramage was still being sold, a testament to its ability to resonate across generations. The lush floral heart, warm leathery base, and refreshing top notes gave the perfume a timeless versatility. Women who wore Ramage in the late 1940s likely appreciated its optimism and elegance, while those in the 1970s would have found its bold contrasts and layered sophistication an apt reflection of their evolving tastes and lifestyles.

Despite its discontinuation—though the exact date remains unknown—Ramage continues to evoke nostalgia for its era. It stands as a reminder of the mid-20th century’s artistry in perfumery, a time when scents were meticulously crafted to tell stories and create lasting impressions. Whether through memories or vintage bottles discovered today, Ramage remains a cherished chapter in the legacy of Bourjois, encapsulating a bygone era of glamour, artistry, and grace.