Glamour by Bourjois c1953

Launched in 1953, Glamour by Bourjois arrived at the height of post-war optimism and a burgeoning cultural fascination with sophistication and style. The early 1950s were marked by a return to elegance after the austerity of World War II. Christian Dior had revolutionized fashion with his "New Look" in 1947, emphasizing femininity with cinched waists, full skirts, and luxurious fabrics. Hollywood icons like Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly, and Marilyn Monroe became global symbols of beauty, charm, and poise. Against this backdrop, Bourjois chose the name "Glamour" to evoke a sense of enchantment and allure that perfectly complemented the era’s cultural ideals.

The word "Glamour" originates from Old Scots, where it referred to a magical or spellbinding quality. By the mid-20th century, it had evolved to signify a captivating charm, elegance, or beauty, often associated with celebrities and the allure of high society. Pronounced “GLAM-er", the word conjures visions of shimmering gowns, glittering jewels, and the magnetic confidence of a woman who commands attention without effort. Women in the 1950s would have been drawn to a perfume named Glamour, imagining it as the invisible accessory that could elevate their presence, much like a favorite lipstick or a well-tailored dress.

In scent, Glamour captures this sense of sophistication and allure through its meticulous composition. The aldehydic opening offers a sparkling freshness, akin to sunlight dancing on crystal. Green and fruity top notes introduce a lively vibrancy, while the green floral heart provides a natural elegance, evoking images of lush gardens and fresh bouquets. These elements flow seamlessly into a mossy, balsamic, and woody chypre base, which grounds the fragrance with depth and warmth. This final accord evokes the sun-soaked hills of Provence, a place of understated beauty and timeless charm.

The 1950s fragrance landscape saw the popularity of aldehydic florals, notably Chanel No. 5 and Arpège by Lanvin, which embodied the era’s love for refined and complex scents. At the same time, chypres with their mossy, woody undertones offered sophistication and intrigue. Glamour stood out by merging these trends, creating a fragrance that balanced freshness, femininity, and depth. Its unique blend made it versatile—appropriate for both daytime elegance and evening sophistication—ensuring it resonated with women of varying styles and lifestyles.

Through its name, composition, and release during a transformative decade, Glamour by Bourjois remains an emblem of 1950s refinement. It encapsulated the era's essence while offering women a fragrant expression of their aspirations, confidence, and charm.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aldehydic floral chypre fragrance for women. It starts off with a fresh green and fruity top, followed by a green floral heart, layered over a mossy, balsamic, woodsy chypre base. It evokes the warmth of the Provencal hills.

• Top notes:  aldehydes, bergamot, lemon, neroli, orange, gardenia, peach
• Middle notes: jasmine, rose, ylang ylang, carnation, narcissus, Provencal herbs
• Base notes: ambergris, oakmoss, musk, styrax, vetiver, benzoin

The New Yorker - Volume 32, 1954:

"Bourjois has put forth a little charmer called Glamour. In this one, a fillip of orange is added to the sharp, clean tang of jasmine; at Altman, $5.50 buys three-fourths of an ounce, in an oval bottle with a gold plastic cover."

Scent Profile:

 As the first spray of Glamour unfolds, the aldehydes burst forth like effervescent champagne, their fizzy brilliance lifting the senses with a clean, sparkling energy. Bergamot and lemon follow closely, their crisp, citrus brightness cutting through the air like sunlight slicing through morning mist. 

Neroli, with its sweet orange blossom touch, adds a delicate floral sweetness, while orange itself brings a juicy, tangy richness that balances the sharpness of the citrus. The softness of peach weaves through this lively bouquet, lending a round, velvety fruitiness. Amidst this symphony, the creamy, green nuance of gardenia rises subtly, suggesting the beginnings of the floral heart to come.

As the top notes settle, the heart of Glamour blooms into a lush, green floral tapestry. Jasmine emerges first, its indolic sweetness evoking the heady, opulent air of a garden in full bloom. Rose follows, with its classic elegance, offering a balance of powdery softness and velvety richness. Ylang-ylang adds a tropical creaminess, its slightly banana-like sweetness smoothing the floral composition. 

Carnation contributes a spicy, clove-like warmth, while narcissus adds a narcotic depth, tinged with hints of hay-like greenness. Underpinning these florals are Provencal herbs—subtle, aromatic whispers of thyme, rosemary, and lavender—that bring to mind the sun-drenched hillsides of southern France, grounding the composition with an earthy, herbal freshness.

The base notes reveal the true depth and sophistication of Glamour. Oakmoss takes center stage, its damp, forest-like aroma imparting the characteristic chypre elegance. Ambergris lends a soft, salty warmth, reminiscent of the sea breeze mingling with the earthy tones of moss. Musk, clean yet sensual, provides an animalic undercurrent that lingers on the skin. 

The resinous sweetness of benzoin and styrax adds a balsamic richness, while vetiver’s smoky, woody sharpness cuts through, ensuring the base remains balanced. Together, these ingredients create a warm, enveloping dry-down that evokes the golden light and rustic beauty of the Provencal hills.

Through this journey of notes, Glamour transforms from a sparkling, vivacious opening to a green, floral heart and finally into a warm, mossy embrace. It’s a fragrance that tells a story—of elegance, natural beauty, and timeless charm—capturing the essence of the woman who wears it.

Bottles:

Fate of the Fragrance:

Launched in 1953, Glamour by Bourjois arrived at a time when the world was embracing elegance and femininity. The early 1950s were a period of renewed optimism, and women sought to celebrate their individuality through beauty and style. Glamour captured this spirit with its sophisticated aldehydic floral chypre composition, offering a fragrance that was both refined and approachable. Bourjois marketed the perfume as a versatile accessory for the modern woman, one that could transition effortlessly from day to evening.

The exact date of its discontinuation remains unknown, but Glamour had a remarkable longevity, remaining available at least until 1978. This extended run suggests that the fragrance resonated with multiple generations, adapting to shifts in tastes while maintaining its classic appeal. By the 1970s, the perfume industry was moving toward bold, assertive scents like Yves Saint Laurent's Opium and Revlon's Charlie, but Glamour held its place as a symbol of timeless refinement. Its continued presence on store shelves during this dynamic era is a testament to its enduring charm.

Although discontinued for many years now, Glamour remains fondly remembered by those who wore it. Its warm, mossy chypre base and elegant floral heart evoke an era of grace and sophistication. The fragrance has become a cherished piece of Bourjois’ legacy, encapsulating the brand’s dedication to accessible luxury and its ability to craft perfumes that endure in the memory.