Bourjois Perfumes: Violette de Parme by Bourjois c1890

Launched in 1890, Violette de Parme by Bourjois evokes the refined charm and elegance of 19th-century perfumery. The name, meaning "Violet of Parma," is French, pronounced as Vee-oh-let deh Parhm (with a soft "h"). It pays homage to the delicate Parma Violet, a variety of the viola known for its intensely candy-like sweet and powdery fragrance, distinct from the spicier or greener notes of other violet species. Originating in Parma, Italy—a city celebrated for its artistic and cultural heritage—this violet was highly prized in perfumery and confectionery alike, symbolizing refinement and feminine grace.

Parma itself, nestled in the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy, is synonymous with luxury and tradition. Its association with the Parma Violet conjures images of rolling Italian countryside, fields of blooming violets, and the subtle yet captivating allure of nature’s finest flowers. The name Violette de Parme would have resonated with late 19th-century women as a statement of sophistication, blending the romance of Italy with the growing trend of floral fragrances that dominated the era.

The 1890s, often referred to as the fin de siècle period, were marked by a blend of optimism, innovation, and a fascination with luxury. It was an era of burgeoning Art Nouveau, when organic forms and floral motifs influenced everything from architecture to fashion. Women’s attire featured intricate embroidery and delicate lace, often inspired by nature’s beauty. In this setting, Violette de Parme would have been perfectly aligned with the tastes of women who sought fragrances that mirrored the elegance and romanticism of their wardrobes.

Perfumes during this time often emphasized single-note florals, yet they were frequently enriched with complex accords to add depth. Violette de Parme reflected this balance, delivering the recognizable sweetness of violets while incorporating sophisticated powdery and animalic touches to enhance its allure. Unlike other violet species, the Parma Violet has a softer, creamier scent profile. It lacks the sharper green or earthy tones of wild violets, favoring a more powdery sweetness that is both comforting and sensuous. This natural profile made it a favorite for perfumers who sought to evoke femininity and tenderness.

At its core, Violette de Parme offered women a connection to nature, art, and romance. Its name evoked the allure of travel, the refinement of Italian culture, and the intimacy of a beloved bloom. In scent, the perfume opened with a delicate violet bouquet enriched by animalic notes—with musk and ambergris—to provide warmth and depth. Powdery nuances, suggestive of heliotropin and orris root, would have added an air of luxury, while synthetic molecules like methyl ionone may have modernized the formula, giving it an enduring vibrancy.

The scent aligned with broader trends of the time, as florals, especially violet, rose, and jasmine, were incredibly popular. Yet, Violette de Parme distinguished itself with its heritage and artistry, building upon traditional Parma Violet perfumes while embracing the new possibilities of synthetic molecules.

To the women of the 1890s, Violette de Parme would have represented a dream of beauty, elegance, and sophistication. It was a fragrance for those who wished to express a delicate femininity while remaining effortlessly chic. The name alone conjured images of blooming violets kissed by morning dew, their essence carried on a gentle breeze. It also spoke to a connection with the past—both the tradition of Parma’s famous violets and the burgeoning innovations of modern perfumery.

As a "sweet, powdery floral," Violette de Parme struck a perfect balance between nostalgia and modernity, offering a timeless scent that captured the hearts of women for decades to come.

The 1908 Sears & Roebuck catalog provides a vivid description of the elegance and allure of Bourjois’ Violette de Parme. Prominently described as a “worldwide famous perfume,” this fragrance, crafted by the prestigious A. Bourjois & Co. of Paris, was positioned as a luxury product of exceptional quality, designed to bring the artistry of French perfumery to the everyday consumer at an accessible price.

The advertisement emphasizes the exquisite presentation of the perfume. The bottle itself was described as a "graceful and delicate flacon," with a capacity of 1 1/2 fluid ounces, offering ample value. It featured a "beautiful cut-faced stopper," suggesting that even small details were crafted with care to convey refinement and sophistication. Adding to its appeal, the packaging was a work of art. The bottle was adorned with purple and violet kid leather and trimmed with harmonious ribbons. The label, printed in shades of violet and silver, enhanced the luxurious presentation, making it a feast for the eyes as well as the senses.

To protect the delicate bottle and its contents, it was carefully packed in cotton and placed inside a "neat violet-covered perfume box." Such attention to packaging detail not only ensured safe transport but also elevated the unboxing experience for the consumer, a precursor to the modern idea of luxury branding.

The fragrance itself is described as “very delicate and lasting,” a hallmark of high-quality perfumes. Bourjois positioned Violette de Parme as a “true representation of the flower odor,” capturing the essence of fresh violets in bloom. The copy emphasizes the perfume’s potency, noting that “a single drop is sufficient for several hours,” which highlights its value and durability. The poetic statement that “every drop of this magnificent article is equal to the perfume from several violets” further romanticizes its allure and links it directly to nature’s bounty.

At just $0.89—a modest price even for the time—the perfume was marketed as the finest violet fragrance available, appealing to a broad audience while retaining an air of exclusivity. Consumers were urged to “buy the best,” reinforcing the idea that this perfume was a worthy indulgence, whether as a personal treat or a thoughtful gift.

This description from Sears & Roebuck encapsulates the dual appeal of Violette de Parme: it was both an emblem of French sophistication and a practical yet indulgent purchase for discerning American customers in the early 20th century.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a sweet, powdery floral fragrance for women.

Top notes: methyl heptin carbonate, cassie, bitter almond, geranium, violet, bergamot, violet leaves, mignonette
Middle notes: farnesol, methyl ionone, jasmine, orris root, rose, heliotropin, tuberose, ylang ylang
Base notes: santalol, benzyl acetate, vanillin, tolu balsam, musk, ambrette, guaiac, ambergris, sandalwood, vetiver, storax

Scent Profile:

The first impression of Violette de Parme begins with a sparkling and delicate bouquet that immediately enchants the senses. The crisp, citrusy brightness of bergamot feels like a splash of sunshine, lifting the fragrance with its zesty, slightly bitter sweetness. Methyl heptin carbonate adds a tart, green quality, reminiscent of freshly peeled unripe fruits, balancing the opening with a touch of sharpness.

As the citrus fades, the creamy, nutty sweetness of bitter almond emerges, lending a smooth and warm gourmand nuance. This is complemented by the subtly metallic and rosy aroma of geranium, which sharpens the edges of the sweetness while maintaining a soft floral undertone.

The violet—true to the fragrance’s name—introduces a signature powdery sweetness that is both nostalgic and enchanting. Its companion, violet leaves, adds an intriguing green freshness, like a gentle breeze over a dewy garden. The rare, honeyed scent of cassie intertwines with the violet, bringing hints of mimosa and soft spice, while mignonette adds an earthy and slightly peppery depth to the bouquet, grounding the initial burst of brightness with a natural floral warmth.

As the fragrance begins to bloom, the heart reveals a velvety and luxurious floral symphony. Methyl ionone, a synthetic violet compound, enhances the powdery sweetness of the top notes, creating a seamless bridge between the phases. Its partner, farnesol, lends a honeyed, floral richness that amplifies the opulent quality of the composition.

The creamy elegance of orris root emerges like the scent of powdered makeup, cool and slightly woody, with a sophisticated smoothness. Rose adds a tender and dewy sweetness, evoking freshly cut petals, while jasmine contributes its heady, narcotic warmth, rich and slightly animalic. Together, they create an air of timeless romance.

Heliotropin adds a touch of almond-like softness with a vanillic undertone, reminiscent of warm sunlight on skin. The intoxicating floral notes continue with the creamy and exotic tuberose, while ylang ylang contributes a banana-like sweetness and a touch of tropical lushness, creating a sensual and full-bodied heart that radiates elegance and femininity.

As the florals gently fade, the base notes linger with a complex and sensual warmth. The creamy richness of santalol and sandalwood anchors the fragrance with their milky, woody smoothness, while the earthy, smoky depth of vetiver provides an elegant counterbalance.

The warm and resinous tolu balsam combines with storax, offering a hint of spiced vanilla and a faint leathery nuance, while ambergris adds a salty, oceanic warmth, lending sophistication and natural depth. The musky sweetness of ambrette creates a skin-like intimacy, blending seamlessly with the subtle animalic richness of musk.

Vanillin amplifies the gourmand facets of the scent, weaving a cozy, powdery sweetness throughout. Hints of benzyl acetate enhance the floral complexity, while guaiac wood contributes a smoky, slightly medicinal richness. Together, these notes form a lingering trail that is both powdery and warm, with a touch of creamy sensuality that stays close to the skin.

Violette de Parme unfolds like a delicate journey through a sunlit garden, balancing the innocence of violets and powdery florals with the warmth and depth of a rich, textured base. It is a perfume of contrasts—bright and fresh, yet soft and enveloping—perfectly embodying the refined femininity of its era.