Flamme by Bourjois c1932

Flamme by Bourjois, launched in 1932, carries a name that captures the essence of its allure and vibrancy. The word "Flamme," pronounced "flahm", is French for "flame." This evocative name conjures imagery of glowing embers, passionate intensity, and radiant warmth. Symbolically, it represents light, life, and the enduring spark of elegance and desire. In the context of perfumery, "Flamme" suggests a fragrance that ignites the senses, smoldering with captivating allure while maintaining a flickering freshness.

Bourjois, a brand celebrated for its accessibility and flair, likely chose the name "Flamme" to resonate with women embracing the bold optimism and modernity of the early 1930s. The name embodies sophistication and confidence, aligning with a woman who is both a trendsetter and a romantic. It evokes emotions of passion, vitality, and intrigue, qualities that resonated deeply during a time of social transformation and glamour.

A fragrance called "Flamme" naturally invites an olfactory journey reflecting its fiery name. The dominant geranium note provides a fresh, rosy sharpness with subtle minty undertones, evoking the brightness and intensity of a flame. As a fresh floral oriental, the composition would have paired crisp florals like jasmine and rose with spicy, resinous, and warm base notes such as amber, vanilla, and patchouli. This juxtaposition of freshness and warmth mirrors the dynamic nature of a flame—ever-changing yet mesmerizing.

Beau Belle by Bourjois c1949

 Launched in 1949 by Bourjois, Beau Belle captured the optimism and glamour of the post-war era. The name, derived from French, translates to "Beautiful Beauty" (boh bel), a phrase as poetic as it is simple. The repetition of "beauty" emphasizes charm and allure, reflecting the elegance Bourjois sought to evoke with this creation. The name resonates with femininity and sophistication, promising women a fragrance that would enhance their grace and allure.

The words "Beau Belle" conjure vivid imagery of classic Parisian beauty: a woman in a cinched-waist dress strolling through the bustling streets of post-war Paris, her confidence radiant and her laughter contagious. This was a time when women were reclaiming their femininity and joy after years of austerity, and a perfume named Beau Belle would have appealed to their desire for elegance, optimism, and a touch of romance. Its name evokes feelings of pride, self-assurance, and timeless charm.

Women in the late 1940s, stepping into a world reborn with color and creativity, would have found Beau Belle both modern and aspirational. The post-war period marked a resurgence of glamour, seen in Dior’s "New Look" of 1947 and the golden age of Hollywood. Perfumes during this time mirrored this trend, embracing bold compositions and luxurious presentations. In this context, Beau Belle offered a vibrant interpretation of beauty, combining a rich, multifaceted composition with a name that reflected its wearer’s elegance and poise.

Courage by Bourjois c1939

Courage, launched by Bourjois in 1939, was a fragrance that exuded confidence and defiance, particularly resonating with the changing cultural landscape of the late 1930s. The name "Courage" comes from the French word meaning "bravery" or "fortitude," pronounced as "koo-rahzh." This word would have evoked a sense of strength and audacity during a time of increasing global uncertainty, as the world stood on the brink of war. For women in the late 1930s, Courage was not just a fragrance but a statement—symbolizing resilience, empowerment, and a refusal to be diminished by the tumultuous times they were facing.

During this period, just before World War II, many women were seeking ways to express their independence, resilience, and inner strength, and Courage provided them with a way to wear these emotions on their skin. The perfume’s bold name and its dynamic composition—a spicy floral blend dominated by the warm, spicy note of carnation—reflected the very qualities it aimed to evoke. The fragrance was designed to be an audacious and youthful expression of the modern woman, a symbol of bravery and defiance against the backdrop of a world in turmoil. The fragrance would have resonated with women who were navigating uncertainty and social change, offering them a sense of empowerment in the face of adversity.

Bourjois Perfume Tester Racks

Nice looking perfume tester racks for Bourjois made up of clear lucite. The perfumes shown are: Mais Oui, Ramage, Soir de Paris and Glamour.

Mais Oui by Bourjois c1939

Mais Oui by Bourjois, launched in 1939, carried an intriguing and bold name that encapsulated the spirit of the era. The French phrase "Mais Oui" literally translates to "But Yes" in English. Pronounced "meh wee", it evokes a sense of confident affirmation, a playful and slightly teasing response, reflecting a certain lighthearted, yet assertive, charm. The phrase was widely used in France and beyond as an exclamation of enthusiastic agreement or approval, often imbued with a sense of elegance and wit. By naming their fragrance Mais Oui, Bourjois captured an essence of exuberance and femininity, aligning the perfume with a sense of modernity, sophistication, and a welcoming, yet irresistible energy. For women of the time, the name would have conveyed an image of carefree confidence, a statement of enjoyment and approval, an invitation to embrace the possibilities of life—both playful and seductive.

The scent itself, crafted by perfumer Constantin Mikhailovich "Kot" Weriguine, reflected this sense of assuredness and allure. Classified as a floral aldehydic perfume, Mais Oui shared similarities with the iconic Chanel No. 5, yet with a weightier, more sensual edge. Its aldehydic composition, which was a prominent trend during the 1930s, offered a modern, almost industrial cleanliness, lending a cool and sophisticated texture to the floral notes. However, Mais Oui distinguished itself through the use of Synarome's Animalis base, a blend of natural musk, civet, costus, and castoreum—ingredients known for their animalic, musky qualities. This animalic fixative provided a rich, warm undertone that contrasted with the cooler aldehydic top notes, creating a more sensuous and complex scent. It suggested an underlying depth, a richness that evoked both elegance and intimacy.

Clin d'Oeil by Bourjois c1984

 Launched in 1984, Clin d’Oeil by Bourjois emerged as a lively and engaging fragrance, created by renowned perfumers François Demachy and Jacques Polge. The name "Clin d’Oeil," which is French for "wink," captures a sense of flirtation, mischief, and charm. Pronounced as “klahn duh-yuh,” this phrase evokes an image of someone making a quick, playful gesture—a subtle yet deliberate act of acknowledgment or allure.

For women in the mid-1980s, the name "Clin d’Oeil" resonated with the playful confidence and bold individuality that defined the era. It suggested an effortless way to express one's personality, perhaps with a hint of mystery or cheeky fun. The phrase "wink" is universally understood as both an action and a metaphor, symbolizing charm, spontaneity, and sometimes, a secret shared between two people. As a name for a perfume, it conjures images of a woman exuding effortless charisma and leaving an indelible impression, much like the fleeting nature of a wink itself.

Interpreted as a scent, "Clin d’Oeil" could be imagined as light, sparkling, and bright—a burst of energy that doesn't overwhelm but leaves a memorable trail. The fragrance, classified as fresh, green, fruity, and floral, would embody this playful elegance. The green and fruity notes hint at vitality and youthful exuberance, while the floral heart provides an air of femininity and sophistication. Together, they evoke the spirit of a woman who can balance playful allure with refined grace.

Kobako by Bourjois c1936

Launched in 1936, Kobako by Bourjois is a perfume that stands out not only for its unique fragrance but also for its intriguing name. The term "Kobako" is derived from Japanese, where it translates to "perfume-box" or "scented box," and it refers to a lacquer or porcelain box used for storing incense. Pronounced as "koh-BAH-koh," the word evokes images of delicate craftsmanship, refined elegance, and a sensory experience tied to both fragrance and cultural symbolism. The association with a "perfume-box" suggests a treasured, almost sacred container for rare and precious scents, resonating with ideas of beauty and ritual. For women of the 1930s, particularly those attuned to global influences and trends, a name like Kobako would have conjured images of exoticism, luxury, and sophistication, drawing on the allure of Eastern traditions and the mystique of Far Eastern arts and culture.

The word "Kobako" in relation to scent would evoke a sense of deep, enveloping luxury. It conjures a perfume that is as much about the presentation and atmosphere as it is about the fragrance itself—a scent that would be housed in something as precious and alluring as a lacquered box. The perfume might be imagined as contained within a beautiful object, promising a fragrance that would linger and resonate, much like the incense stored in those precious boxes. In scent, it speaks to a luxurious, almost ritualistic experience, drawing upon the Eastern idea of treasured, often mystically rich scents held in reverence.

Kobako was created by renowned perfumer Ernest Beaux, with assistance from Constantin Mikhailovich "Kot" Weriguine, and it is classified as a warm leathery floral chypre fragrance for women. It is described as "heady," with rare wood species and jasmine as the dominant notes, providing a rich, sensual, and somewhat exotic olfactory experience. The fragrance is noted for its ability to hold better in fabrics and furs, positioning it as a perfume for brunettes of an exotic type—suggesting a scent that is both deep and striking, perhaps better suited to those with darker hair and a bold, sophisticated personality. The warm, woody, and floral elements would have made it a perfume that lingered on the skin and in the mind, creating an aura of mystery and sensuality.

Evening in Paris 1944 Advertisements

Evening in Paris perfume presentations and gift sets shown in a 1944 advertisement.

Evening in Paris Advertisement 1958 #2

Evening in Paris Advertisement 1958 showing perfume presentations and gift sets.

Evening in Paris 1958 Advertisement

Advertisement shows perfume bottles, perfume presentations and other sets.

Manon Lescaut Face Powder

Manon Lescaut is an opera in four acts by Giacomo Puccini. The story is based on the 1731 novel L’histoire du chevalier des Grieux et de Manon Lescaut by the Abbé Prévost.

The libretto is in Italian. It was somehow cobbled together by five librettists whom Puccini employed (or went through): Ruggero Leoncavallo, Marco Praga, Giuseppe Giacosa, Domenico Oliva and Luigi Illica. The publisher, Giulio Ricordi, and the composer himself also contributed to the libretto. So confused was the authorship of the libretto that no one was credited on the title page of the original score.

Puccini took some musical elements in Manon Lescaut from earlier works he had written. For example, the madrigal Sulla vetta tu del monte from Act II echoes the Agnus Dei from his 1880 Messa a quattro voci. Other elements of Manon Lescaut come from his compositions for strings: the quartet Crisantemi (January 1890), three Menuets (probably 1884)[1] and a Scherzo (1883?). The love theme comes from the aria Mentia l'avviso (1883).

Bourjois used this beautiful name for their powder, Manon Lescaut starting in 1907. The powder was still being sold in 1946.


From advertisements in the 1908 Sears & Roebuck catalog:

"Bourjois Manon Lescaut. This world famous perfume represents the finest article manufactured by any Paris perfumer. The perfume odor is not that of any particular flower but represents the fragrance from the combined flowers of France. This perfume, therefore, has many times been called the Pride of France. The perfume is put up in beautiful colored embossed bottles holding by actual measurement 1 1/2 fluid ounces. The bottles are of irregular design characteristic of imported goods and trimmed with colored kid and rich silk. Each bottle put up in handsome colored lithographed fancy box. This wonderfully lasting perfume is very rich in odor, sweet and refined in character and wonderfully lasting, a few drops being sufficient to perfume an entire room.. Our price -$1.67."

"Bourjois Poudre Manon Lescaut. If you want the best, buy this. This world famous powder has been named after the beautiful heroine of the Abbe Prevost. This is the most famous of all face powders , highly and sweetly perfumed and made of the finest Oriental rice, which is bolted many times until it has become perfectly impalpable. This is combined with other ingredients, all of which are absolutely harmless to the most delicate complexion, yet when used upon the face,become perfectly invisible. This powder is made by and represents the highest skill of the world's master in face powder. Our price -per box $0.93, two boxes -$1.75."

c1922 ad

Violette de Parme by Bourjois c1890

Launched in 1890, Violette de Parme by Bourjois evokes the refined charm and elegance of 19th-century perfumery. The name, meaning "Violet of Parma," is French, pronounced as Vee-oh-let deh Parhm (with a soft "h"). It pays homage to the delicate Parma Violet, a variety of the viola known for its intensely candy-like sweet and powdery fragrance, distinct from the spicier or greener notes of other violet species. Originating in Parma, Italy—a city celebrated for its artistic and cultural heritage—this violet was highly prized in perfumery and confectionery alike, symbolizing refinement and feminine grace.

Parma itself, nestled in the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy, is synonymous with luxury and tradition. Its association with the Parma Violet conjures images of rolling Italian countryside, fields of blooming violets, and the subtle yet captivating allure of nature’s finest flowers. The name Violette de Parme would have resonated with late 19th-century women as a statement of sophistication, blending the romance of Italy with the growing trend of floral fragrances that dominated the era.

The 1890s, often referred to as the fin de siècle period, were marked by a blend of optimism, innovation, and a fascination with luxury. It was an era of burgeoning Art Nouveau, when organic forms and floral motifs influenced everything from architecture to fashion. Women’s attire featured intricate embroidery and delicate lace, often inspired by nature’s beauty. In this setting, Violette de Parme would have been perfectly aligned with the tastes of women who sought fragrances that mirrored the elegance and romanticism of their wardrobes.

Creme de Java

From advertisements in the 1908 Sears & Roebuck catalog:

"Bourjois Creme de Java. The most perfect and delightful of al face creams. The only one imported from Paris to be sold at reasonable prices. very delicately, but richly perfumed;absolutely snow white in color, rubs into the skin and leaves no traces. It is known as "The Instant Beautifier", as applications will made a muddy complexion a fine natural cream. It is also a safe remedy for all skin troubles that are purely skin troubles and not caused by an impure condition of the blood. Gives freshness and softness to the skin.Once used, you would have no other. Carried only in 2 ounce, opal, fancy top, import packages. This is not like many so called import packages, but is guaranteed to be the genuine Imported Creme de Java. try it and be convinced,. Our price- $0.59."

Java Poudre de Riz c1879

From advertisements in the 1908 Sears & Roebuck catalog:

"Bourjois Java Poudre de Riz. We guarantee this to be the genuine imported Java Rice Face Powder. It is made by A. Bourjois & Cie, Paris France. Used almost exclusively by the theatrical profession. Absolutely pure. Delightful and lasting perfume. Absolutely free from injurious substances. The most adherent powder in the world. Almost double the powder found in any other box. Our price- $.027"

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Bourjois Rouge de Theatre

From advertisements in the 1908 Sears & Roebuck catalog:

"Bourjois Rouge de Theatre. This is not the cheap American rouge but the genuine Imported Bourjois Rouge put up in round wooden boxes. This is positively the best,giving a natural and lifelike glow,never injures the skin is today considered by the theatrical profession the only safe and satisfactory rouge, and used by them almost exclusively owing to the fine distributive qualities which it possesses so that it can never be noticed or detected. Be sure to get the genuine. Our price- $0.19"