Le Premier Muguet by Bourjois c1912

Launched in 1912, Le Premier Muguet by Bourjois embodies a timeless tribute to the beloved lily of the valley, known as "muguet" in French. The name translates to "The First Lily of the Valley," pronounced luh pree-myay moo-gay. This elegant choice of name reflects both the French reverence for the flower and the emotions tied to its symbolic meaning. For centuries, lilies of the valley have been a cherished emblem of good luck in France, gifted and worn each year on May 1st as corsages and boutonnieres to celebrate the arrival of spring and to wish for prosperity and happiness.

The words "Le Premier Muguet" evoke a delicate, pastoral charm, conjuring images of fresh blooms in dewy undergrowth, verdant forests alive with new growth, and the soft sunlight of an early May morning. This imagery is deeply entwined with feelings of optimism, renewal, and hope—a nod to both the season and the cultural heritage of France. For women of the early 20th century, a perfume called Le Premier Muguet would have been an elegant and sentimental choice, connecting them to the traditions of May Day while capturing the fleeting beauty of springtime in a bottle.

The scent itself is a soliflore, focusing on the purity and delicacy of lily of the valley. This choice was significant during a time when perfumery was undergoing a shift. While earlier fragrances often featured complex "bouquet" compositions, the early 20th century saw the rise of perfumes that celebrated single floral notes. Le Premier Muguet aligned with this trend, yet stood out for its simplicity and authenticity. It distilled the essence of spring into a fresh, subtle fragrance, appealing to women seeking a light, natural, and distinctly feminine scent.

Bourjois in WWII

In 1940, the Nazi Luftwaffe launched a bombing campaign near London, targeting strategic sites such as the Croydon airfield and nearby factories essential to wartime production. Among these was a British factory operated by Bourjois, Inc., a renowned perfume company famous for iconic fragrances like Evening in Paris, Ashes of Roses, Kobako, and Mais Oui. The factory, partially converted for wartime efforts, manufactured shaving soap for the British Army. Rather than producing soap entirely on-site, Bourjois purchased a pre-made soap base, enhanced it with their signature perfuming agents, pressed it into cakes, and packaged it under the Bourjois brand.

Tragedy struck when two German Messerschmitt fighter planes crashed into Croydon's densely populated suburbs during the raid. Six incendiary bombs devastated the Bourjois factory, along with other facilities nearby. Despite the critical nature of these areas, air raid sirens failed to sound until 17 minutes after the first bombs had fallen. This delay proved catastrophic for employees working the night shift, as sixty lives were lost and 180 individuals were injured. The factory was reduced to rubble, and the floral scents of its destroyed perfumes lingered in the air around Croydon for days, a poignant reminder of the attack.

The factory's destruction sparked intrigue for decades, with persistent rumors claiming the remains of one of the German planes had been entombed within the walls of the rebuilt structure. Bourjois, by then owned by Chanel, confirmed the existence of the aircraft remains but refrained from providing public access or photographic evidence, stating that removal of the wreckage could compromise the building's structural integrity. While the company described the embedded plane as an early postal aircraft, the lack of transparency left room for speculation.

The factory was completely rebuilt in 1948, rising from the ashes to continue its legacy of producing beloved perfumes and beauty products. The resilience of Bourjois mirrored the indomitable spirit of the British people during the war, turning a symbol of destruction into one of recovery and renewal.

The photo below shows the rebuilt Bourjois factory (in the center) in 1949, colorized by me.