Chicote by Bourjois c1934

Chicote by Bourjois, launched in 1934, was marketed as "the modern man's perfume" and was described as a fragrance designed for gentlemen. The name "Chicote" carries with it a strong connection to a figure of high distinction in the world of cocktail culture: Pedro Chicote Serrano, the famed bartender and mixologist of mid-century Spain. 

Chicote is a Spanish word. It primarily refers to a type of whip or lash, typically used for driving or controlling animals. In a broader sense, it can also be used to describe something that is sharp or striking in nature. Chicote is pronounced "shee-koh-teh," with emphasis on the first syllable. The name itself is a nod to Pedro Chicote's iconic status—his bar, Bar Chicote, became the haunt of Spain’s young and affluent clientele, and he became a household name in the world of bartending. As a self-promoter, Chicote was known not just for his impeccable bartending skills but also for his flair in creating a brand, even adding a museum to his bar and founding the Asociación de Barmans Españoles (ABE) in 1964. Naming the fragrance after him was a clever marketing move, aimed at capturing the essence of modern sophistication, class, and masculinity that Chicote personified.

The word "Chicote," though immediately associated with a man of refinement and the world of cocktails, carries a dynamic energy, evoking images of a well-dressed gentleman confidently entering a bustling bar, the clinking of glasses and the refined scent of cologne accompanying him. It speaks of elegance, modernity, and the allure of nightlife—an era of men who took pride in their appearance and style, and who were keen to make an impression in the world of social gatherings. Chicote suggests a masculine yet delicate fragrance that combines strength with a subtle, refined sensuality, much like the bartenders of the time who exuded charisma and sophistication while preparing cocktails with expert precision.

 

Frosty Mist by Bourjois c1956

Frosty Mist by Bourjois, launched in 1956, was part of a trio of summer colognes—On the Wind, Frosty Mist, and Spice 'N Ice—that aimed to evoke a sense of lightness and refreshment during the warmest months of the year. The name Frosty Mist was carefully chosen to convey a feeling of cool respite, suggesting the crisp, tingling sensation of a misty breeze on sun-warmed skin. It brought to mind imagery of early morning dew, frost-kissed leaves, or the invigorating chill of a seaside mist carried by a summer wind. The name alone promised relief from the summer heat, an enticing concept for women looking to maintain their elegance and freshness despite the season’s sweltering temperatures.

The phrase Frosty Mist evokes not just imagery, but emotions—cool serenity, lightness, and rejuvenation. It paints a picture of delicate, icy droplets suspended in the air, sparkling in the sunlight and offering a fleeting touch of coolness. Women hearing this name in the 1950s would have imagined an ethereal, refreshing escape, a perfume that could momentarily transport them to a tranquil garden enveloped in a soft, cooling haze. The emotions tied to this imagery were likely feelings of renewal, calm, and poise—qualities that resonated deeply with the mid-century ideals of feminine grace and understated beauty.

The mid-1950s marked a significant moment in history. It was a time of post-war optimism, when the economy was booming, consumer culture was thriving, and modernity was reshaping daily life. Women of the era were increasingly balancing traditional domestic roles with a newfound independence and participation in the workforce. Fashion reflected this evolving identity—cinched waists, full skirts, and tailored silhouettes emphasized femininity and structure, while lighter fabrics and pastel tones aligned with the season’s airy sensibility. Trends of the time leaned toward simplicity and elegance, which aligned perfectly with the delicate, refreshing concept of Frosty Mist.

Le Premier Muguet by Bourjois c1912

Launched in 1912, Le Premier Muguet by Bourjois embodies a timeless tribute to the beloved lily of the valley, known as "muguet" in French. The name translates to "The First Lily of the Valley," pronounced luh pree-myay moo-gay. This elegant choice of name reflects both the French reverence for the flower and the emotions tied to its symbolic meaning. For centuries, lilies of the valley have been a cherished emblem of good luck in France, gifted and worn each year on May 1st as corsages and boutonnieres to celebrate the arrival of spring and to wish for prosperity and happiness.

The words "Le Premier Muguet" evoke a delicate, pastoral charm, conjuring images of fresh blooms in dewy undergrowth, verdant forests alive with new growth, and the soft sunlight of an early May morning. This imagery is deeply entwined with feelings of optimism, renewal, and hope—a nod to both the season and the cultural heritage of France. For women of the early 20th century, a perfume called Le Premier Muguet would have been an elegant and sentimental choice, connecting them to the traditions of May Day while capturing the fleeting beauty of springtime in a bottle.

The scent itself is a soliflore, focusing on the purity and delicacy of lily of the valley. This choice was significant during a time when perfumery was undergoing a shift. While earlier fragrances often featured complex "bouquet" compositions, the early 20th century saw the rise of perfumes that celebrated single floral notes. Le Premier Muguet aligned with this trend, yet stood out for its simplicity and authenticity. It distilled the essence of spring into a fresh, subtle fragrance, appealing to women seeking a light, natural, and distinctly feminine scent.

Bourjois in WWII

In 1940, the Nazi Luftwaffe launched a bombing campaign near London, targeting strategic sites such as the Croydon airfield and nearby factories essential to wartime production. Among these was a British factory operated by Bourjois, Inc., a renowned perfume company famous for iconic fragrances like Evening in Paris, Ashes of Roses, Kobako, and Mais Oui. The factory, partially converted for wartime efforts, manufactured shaving soap for the British Army. Rather than producing soap entirely on-site, Bourjois purchased a pre-made soap base, enhanced it with their signature perfuming agents, pressed it into cakes, and packaged it under the Bourjois brand.

Tragedy struck when two German Messerschmitt fighter planes crashed into Croydon's densely populated suburbs during the raid. Six incendiary bombs devastated the Bourjois factory, along with other facilities nearby. Despite the critical nature of these areas, air raid sirens failed to sound until 17 minutes after the first bombs had fallen. This delay proved catastrophic for employees working the night shift, as sixty lives were lost and 180 individuals were injured. The factory was reduced to rubble, and the floral scents of its destroyed perfumes lingered in the air around Croydon for days, a poignant reminder of the attack.

The factory's destruction sparked intrigue for decades, with persistent rumors claiming the remains of one of the German planes had been entombed within the walls of the rebuilt structure. Bourjois, by then owned by Chanel, confirmed the existence of the aircraft remains but refrained from providing public access or photographic evidence, stating that removal of the wreckage could compromise the building's structural integrity. While the company described the embedded plane as an early postal aircraft, the lack of transparency left room for speculation.

The factory was completely rebuilt in 1948, rising from the ashes to continue its legacy of producing beloved perfumes and beauty products. The resilience of Bourjois mirrored the indomitable spirit of the British people during the war, turning a symbol of destruction into one of recovery and renewal.

The photo below shows the rebuilt Bourjois factory (in the center) in 1949, colorized by me.

 

Endearing by Bourjois c1946

Endearing by Bourjois: launched in 1946. Created by perfumer Constantin Mikhailovich “Kot” Weriguine. In 1949, it was renamed "Ramage" for export to other countries to avoid trademark violations.

Evening in Paris Perfume Gift Sets Ad 1940

 

Evening in Paris Gift Sets 1941 Ad

 Evening in Paris Gift Sets 1941 Ad.

1863 Eau de Cologne by Bourjois c1963

 1863 by Bourjois: launched in 1963. 

Evasion by Bourjois c1970

Launched in 1970 but trademarked as early as 1964, Evasion by Bourjois encapsulated a spirit of escapism, liberation, and fresh femininity. The name "Evasion" (pronounced ay-vah-zhon in French) directly translates to "escape" or "evasion" in English, suggesting a break from the mundane, a flight of fancy, or a retreat to a dreamlike world. It evokes images of freedom—perhaps a spontaneous trip to a sun-drenched seaside, a stroll through a serene forest, or even a journey into the inner world of imagination. By choosing this name, Bourjois offered women not just a perfume but a sensory journey, a fragrant passport to serenity and sophistication.

The word Evasion conveys movement, lightness, and an air of mystery. It suggests a longing for escape, whether physical or emotional, and conjures feelings of liberation and self-discovery. This imagery resonates with vibrant green landscapes, airy skies, or a peaceful retreat far from life's pressures. The name also carries an air of modernity and independence, a perfect match for the ethos of women embracing new roles and opportunities during the late 1960s and early 1970s.

The early 1970s marked the end of the Swinging Sixties and the beginning of a new cultural chapter. Women’s liberation movements were gaining traction, and society was shifting toward greater individual freedom and self-expression. Fashion trends reflected these changes, with the structured elegance of the 1960s giving way to more relaxed, bohemian styles. Maxi dresses, bell-bottoms, and natural fabrics became staples, alongside bold, experimental designs that mirrored societal shifts. Perfumes, too, were evolving to reflect this duality of free-spirited modernity and timeless femininity.

On the Wind by Bourjois c1956

Launched in 1956, On the Wind by Bourjois was part of a trio of summer colognes, including Frosty Mist and Spice 'N Ice. The name On the Wind conjures a poetic sense of freedom, lightness, and motion. It evokes images of a soft summer breeze carrying the fresh scent of flowers and distant shores. The phrase suggests a fleeting yet invigorating experience, something intangible yet deeply refreshing—qualities perfectly suited for a summer cologne. It embodies the idea of escaping the heat, embracing nature, and finding respite in something ethereal and delicate.

The mid-1950s, when On the Wind was introduced, marked the height of postwar optimism and prosperity. Known as the era of the "New Look" in fashion, popularized by Christian Dior in 1947, women were embracing feminine silhouettes characterized by cinched waists, voluminous skirts, and soft, elegant fabrics. Trends of the time reflected a return to luxury, leisure, and glamour after years of austerity during World War II. There was a palpable sense of hope, exploration, and modernity, with society leaning into travel, outdoor leisure, and the burgeoning middle-class lifestyle. Summer vacations, picnics, and weekends at the beach became integral to postwar life, providing the perfect context for lightweight and refreshing seasonal fragrances like On the Wind.

For women of the 1950s, a perfume called On the Wind would have been more than a fragrance; it would symbolize the allure of summer freedom and a connection to nature. The name itself would evoke romantic, whimsical images—a gentle breeze fluttering through open fields, carrying the crisp, cool aroma of blooming flowers, or perhaps a serene moment by the seaside with the wind lifting the salty air. This emotional connection to summer escapes would have been especially appealing to women enjoying a newfound sense of leisure and independence. On the Wind represented a modern, carefree femininity, offering an alternative to the heavier, opulent perfumes often worn during other seasons.

Glamour by Bourjois c1953

Launched in 1953, Glamour by Bourjois arrived at the height of post-war optimism and a burgeoning cultural fascination with sophistication and style. The early 1950s were marked by a return to elegance after the austerity of World War II. Christian Dior had revolutionized fashion with his "New Look" in 1947, emphasizing femininity with cinched waists, full skirts, and luxurious fabrics. Hollywood icons like Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly, and Marilyn Monroe became global symbols of beauty, charm, and poise. Against this backdrop, Bourjois chose the name "Glamour" to evoke a sense of enchantment and allure that perfectly complemented the era’s cultural ideals.

The word "Glamour" originates from Old Scots, where it referred to a magical or spellbinding quality. By the mid-20th century, it had evolved to signify a captivating charm, elegance, or beauty, often associated with celebrities and the allure of high society. Pronounced “GLAM-er", the word conjures visions of shimmering gowns, glittering jewels, and the magnetic confidence of a woman who commands attention without effort. Women in the 1950s would have been drawn to a perfume named Glamour, imagining it as the invisible accessory that could elevate their presence, much like a favorite lipstick or a well-tailored dress.

In scent, Glamour captures this sense of sophistication and allure through its meticulous composition. The aldehydic opening offers a sparkling freshness, akin to sunlight dancing on crystal. Green and fruity top notes introduce a lively vibrancy, while the green floral heart provides a natural elegance, evoking images of lush gardens and fresh bouquets. These elements flow seamlessly into a mossy, balsamic, and woody chypre base, which grounds the fragrance with depth and warmth. This final accord evokes the sun-soaked hills of Provence, a place of understated beauty and timeless charm.

Ramage by Bourjois c1949

Launched in 1949 and introduced to the U.S. market by 1951, Ramage by Bourjois captured the imagination of a post-war era yearning for sophistication and optimism. The name "Ramage," derived from French, refers to the song of birds and the foliage of trees. Pronounced as “rah-MAHZH”, the word evokes a sense of lyrical beauty, natural harmony, and serene elegance. Its poetic quality aligns perfectly with the fragrance's character, which blends acute, contrasting notes into a symphony of olfactory artistry.

For women of the late 1940s and early 1950s, the name "Ramage" would have conjured images of verdant forests, dappled sunlight, and the joyous melodies of birdsong. These natural elements spoke to a world that, after the turmoil of World War II, sought renewal, beauty, and tranquility. As a perfume, the name hinted at a composition that was both refined and emotive—a fragrance that could transport the wearer to a realm of serene elegance while still exuding a confident sensuality.

The leathery floral semi-oriental (chypre) structure of Ramage, created by the illustrious perfumers Henri Robert and Constantin Mikhailovich “Kot” Weriguine, reflected the sophistication implied by its name. It opened with the sharp brightness of aldehydes, a signature of the era, paired with the intoxicating richness of jasmine. These acute top notes announced the fragrance with boldness and elegance, capturing attention like the first trill of a bird’s song.

Flamme by Bourjois c1932

Flamme by Bourjois, launched in 1932, carries a name that captures the essence of its allure and vibrancy. The word "Flamme," pronounced "flahm", is French for "flame." This evocative name conjures imagery of glowing embers, passionate intensity, and radiant warmth. Symbolically, it represents light, life, and the enduring spark of elegance and desire. In the context of perfumery, "Flamme" suggests a fragrance that ignites the senses, smoldering with captivating allure while maintaining a flickering freshness.

Bourjois, a brand celebrated for its accessibility and flair, likely chose the name "Flamme" to resonate with women embracing the bold optimism and modernity of the early 1930s. The name embodies sophistication and confidence, aligning with a woman who is both a trendsetter and a romantic. It evokes emotions of passion, vitality, and intrigue, qualities that resonated deeply during a time of social transformation and glamour.

A fragrance called "Flamme" naturally invites an olfactory journey reflecting its fiery name. The dominant geranium note provides a fresh, rosy sharpness with subtle minty undertones, evoking the brightness and intensity of a flame. As a fresh floral oriental, the composition would have paired crisp florals like jasmine and rose with spicy, resinous, and warm base notes such as amber, vanilla, and patchouli. This juxtaposition of freshness and warmth mirrors the dynamic nature of a flame—ever-changing yet mesmerizing.

Beau Belle by Bourjois c1949

 Launched in 1949 by Bourjois, Beau Belle captured the optimism and glamour of the post-war era. The name, derived from French, translates to "Beautiful Beauty" (boh bel) in layman’s terms, a phrase as poetic as it is simple. The repetition of "beauty" emphasizes charm and allure, reflecting the elegance Bourjois sought to evoke with this creation. The name resonates with femininity and sophistication, promising women a fragrance that would enhance their grace and allure.

The words "Beau Belle" conjure vivid imagery of classic Parisian beauty: a woman in a cinched-waist dress strolling through the bustling streets of post-war Paris, her confidence radiant and her laughter contagious. This was a time when women were reclaiming their femininity and joy after years of austerity, and a perfume named Beau Belle would have appealed to their desire for elegance, optimism, and a touch of romance. Its name evokes feelings of pride, self-assurance, and timeless charm.

Women in the late 1940s, stepping into a world reborn with color and creativity, would have found Beau Belle both modern and aspirational. The post-war period marked a resurgence of glamour, seen in Dior’s "New Look" of 1947 and the golden age of Hollywood. Perfumes during this time mirrored this trend, embracing bold compositions and luxurious presentations. In this context, Beau Belle offered a vibrant interpretation of beauty, combining a rich, multifaceted composition with a name that reflected its wearer’s elegance and poise.

Courage by Bourjois c1939

Courage, launched by Bourjois in 1939, was a fragrance that exuded confidence and defiance, particularly resonating with the changing cultural landscape of the late 1930s. The name "Courage" comes from the French word meaning "bravery" or "fortitude," pronounced as "koo-rahzh." This word would have evoked a sense of strength and audacity during a time of increasing global uncertainty, as the world stood on the brink of war. For women in the late 1930s, Courage was not just a fragrance but a statement—symbolizing resilience, empowerment, and a refusal to be diminished by the tumultuous times they were facing.

During this period, just before World War II, many women were seeking ways to express their independence, resilience, and inner strength, and Courage provided them with a way to wear these emotions on their skin. The perfume’s bold name and its dynamic composition—a spicy floral blend dominated by the warm, spicy note of carnation—reflected the very qualities it aimed to evoke. The fragrance was designed to be an audacious and youthful expression of the modern woman, a symbol of bravery and defiance against the backdrop of a world in turmoil. The fragrance would have resonated with women who were navigating uncertainty and social change, offering them a sense of empowerment in the face of adversity.