Chicote by Bourjois c1934

Chicote by Bourjois, launched in 1934, was marketed as "the modern man's perfume" and was described as a fragrance designed for gentlemen. The name "Chicote" carries with it a strong connection to a figure of high distinction in the world of cocktail culture: Pedro Chicote Serrano, the famed bartender and mixologist of mid-century Spain. 

Chicote is a Spanish word. It primarily refers to a type of whip or lash, typically used for driving or controlling animals. In a broader sense, it can also be used to describe something that is sharp or striking in nature. Chicote is pronounced "shee-koh-teh," with emphasis on the first syllable. The name itself is a nod to Pedro Chicote's iconic status—his bar, Bar Chicote, became the haunt of Spain’s young and affluent clientele, and he became a household name in the world of bartending. As a self-promoter, Chicote was known not just for his impeccable bartending skills but also for his flair in creating a brand, even adding a museum to his bar and founding the Asociación de Barmans Españoles (ABE) in 1964. Naming the fragrance after him was a clever marketing move, aimed at capturing the essence of modern sophistication, class, and masculinity that Chicote personified.

The word "Chicote," though immediately associated with a man of refinement and the world of cocktails, carries a dynamic energy, evoking images of a well-dressed gentleman confidently entering a bustling bar, the clinking of glasses and the refined scent of cologne accompanying him. It speaks of elegance, modernity, and the allure of nightlife—an era of men who took pride in their appearance and style, and who were keen to make an impression in the world of social gatherings. Chicote suggests a masculine yet delicate fragrance that combines strength with a subtle, refined sensuality, much like the bartenders of the time who exuded charisma and sophistication while preparing cocktails with expert precision.

 

Frosty Mist by Bourjois c1956

Frosty Mist by Bourjois, launched in 1956, was part of a trio of summer colognes—On the Wind, Frosty Mist, and Spice 'N Ice—that aimed to evoke a sense of lightness and refreshment during the warmest months of the year. The name Frosty Mist was carefully chosen to convey a feeling of cool respite, suggesting the crisp, tingling sensation of a misty breeze on sun-warmed skin. It brought to mind imagery of early morning dew, frost-kissed leaves, or the invigorating chill of a seaside mist carried by a summer wind. The name alone promised relief from the summer heat, an enticing concept for women looking to maintain their elegance and freshness despite the season’s sweltering temperatures.

The phrase Frosty Mist evokes not just imagery, but emotions—cool serenity, lightness, and rejuvenation. It paints a picture of delicate, icy droplets suspended in the air, sparkling in the sunlight and offering a fleeting touch of coolness. Women hearing this name in the 1950s would have imagined an ethereal, refreshing escape, a perfume that could momentarily transport them to a tranquil garden enveloped in a soft, cooling haze. The emotions tied to this imagery were likely feelings of renewal, calm, and poise—qualities that resonated deeply with the mid-century ideals of feminine grace and understated beauty.

The mid-1950s marked a significant moment in history. It was a time of post-war optimism, when the economy was booming, consumer culture was thriving, and modernity was reshaping daily life. Women of the era were increasingly balancing traditional domestic roles with a newfound independence and participation in the workforce. Fashion reflected this evolving identity—cinched waists, full skirts, and tailored silhouettes emphasized femininity and structure, while lighter fabrics and pastel tones aligned with the season’s airy sensibility. Trends of the time leaned toward simplicity and elegance, which aligned perfectly with the delicate, refreshing concept of Frosty Mist.

Le Premier Muguet by Bourjois c1912

Launched in 1912, Le Premier Muguet by Bourjois embodies a timeless tribute to the beloved lily of the valley, known as "muguet" in French. The name translates to "The First Lily of the Valley," pronounced luh pree-myay moo-gay. This elegant choice of name reflects both the French reverence for the flower and the emotions tied to its symbolic meaning. For centuries, lilies of the valley have been a cherished emblem of good luck in France, gifted and worn each year on May 1st as corsages and boutonnieres to celebrate the arrival of spring and to wish for prosperity and happiness.

The words "Le Premier Muguet" evoke a delicate, pastoral charm, conjuring images of fresh blooms in dewy undergrowth, verdant forests alive with new growth, and the soft sunlight of an early May morning. This imagery is deeply entwined with feelings of optimism, renewal, and hope—a nod to both the season and the cultural heritage of France. For women of the early 20th century, a perfume called Le Premier Muguet would have been an elegant and sentimental choice, connecting them to the traditions of May Day while capturing the fleeting beauty of springtime in a bottle.

The scent itself is a soliflore, focusing on the purity and delicacy of lily of the valley. This choice was significant during a time when perfumery was undergoing a shift. While earlier fragrances often featured complex "bouquet" compositions, the early 20th century saw the rise of perfumes that celebrated single floral notes. Le Premier Muguet aligned with this trend, yet stood out for its simplicity and authenticity. It distilled the essence of spring into a fresh, subtle fragrance, appealing to women seeking a light, natural, and distinctly feminine scent.