Beau Belle by Bourjois c1949

 Launched in 1949 by Bourjois, Beau Belle captured the optimism and glamour of the post-war era. The name, derived from French, translates to "Beautiful Beauty" (boh bel) in layman’s terms, a phrase as poetic as it is simple. The repetition of "beauty" emphasizes charm and allure, reflecting the elegance Bourjois sought to evoke with this creation. The name resonates with femininity and sophistication, promising women a fragrance that would enhance their grace and allure.

The words "Beau Belle" conjure vivid imagery of classic Parisian beauty: a woman in a cinched-waist dress strolling through the bustling streets of post-war Paris, her confidence radiant and her laughter contagious. This was a time when women were reclaiming their femininity and joy after years of austerity, and a perfume named Beau Belle would have appealed to their desire for elegance, optimism, and a touch of romance. Its name evokes feelings of pride, self-assurance, and timeless charm.

Women in the late 1940s, stepping into a world reborn with color and creativity, would have found Beau Belle both modern and aspirational. The post-war period marked a resurgence of glamour, seen in Dior’s "New Look" of 1947 and the golden age of Hollywood. Perfumes during this time mirrored this trend, embracing bold compositions and luxurious presentations. In this context, Beau Belle offered a vibrant interpretation of beauty, combining a rich, multifaceted composition with a name that reflected its wearer’s elegance and poise.

Beau Belle is classified as a fruity chypre, a style gaining popularity in the mid-20th century for its sophisticated balance of freshness, florals, and earthy depth. The fragrance opens with sharp, zesty citrus and soapy aldehydes, creating a fresh and clean introduction. The bittersweet touch of peach adds a fruity complexity, bridging the vibrant top notes with the opulent floral heart. In the middle, lush blooms are intertwined with aromatic herbs and the dry spice of dusty, sunlit fields, evoking a sense of vibrant warmth. The base is quintessentially chypre: green, mossy, and grounding, with hints of mystery and sensuality.

Created by Constantin Mikhailovich “Kot” Weriguine, Beau Belle exemplifies the artistry of mid-century perfumery, blending vibrant fruits and florals with mossy undertones. This composition reflected the trends of the era while offering a unique interplay of brightness and depth. The chypre genre was widely celebrated for its versatility and sophistication, making Beau Belle both a contemporary choice and a distinctive standout among its peers.

As women sought perfumes that mirrored their multifaceted lives—balancing elegance, vibrancy, and resilience—Beau Belle resonated deeply. Its layered composition captured the essence of post-war femininity: complex, bold, and endlessly enchanting.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a vibrant fruity chypre fragrance for women. It begins sharp and pungent with citrus blended with soapy aldehydes, and a bittersweet facet of peach. A rich floral heart touched with dry aromatic herbs and dusty spices rests on a green, mossy base.

• Top notes: lemon, bergamot, aldehydes, galbanum, Reunion geranium, neroli, peach
• Middle notes: coriander, cardamom, thyme, sage, bay, lily of the valley, jasmine, rose, orange blossom, carnation
• Base notes: myrrh, oakmoss, musk, Mysore sandalwood, labdanum, vetiver, patchouli, ambergris

Independent Woman, Volumes 28-29, 1949:

"BEAU BELLE, an enchanting new fruity fragrance by Bourjois is a natural for either day or nighttime wear. Carry the purse flacon luxuriously encased in a pleated drawstring."

Pacific Drug Review - Volume 61, 1949:

"Beau Belle perfume is described as having a subtle vibrant yet lingering fragrance that may be worn day or night."

Scent Profile:

At the first encounter, the top notes of Beau Belle burst forth with dazzling sharpness. Lemon and bergamot create a citrusy brilliance—zesty, tangy, and clean, like the sparkling zest of freshly peeled fruit. They are tempered by soapy aldehydes, which add an air of sophistication and polish, reminiscent of crisp linens drying under a sunlit sky. 

Galbanum, with its green, resinous sharpness, lends a bitter edge that cuts through the citrus brightness. The addition of Reunion geranium introduces a herbaceous and slightly minty nuance, while neroli brings a honeyed, floral sweetness. A bittersweet facet of peach provides softness, its juicy fruitiness weaving a subtle, velvety undercurrent beneath the crisp top notes.

As the fragrance unfolds, the rich floral heart emerges, brimming with layered complexity. Coriander and cardamom lend a spicy warmth that feels dry yet aromatic, their earthy piquancy mingling with the herbal freshness of thyme and sage. Bay leaves contribute a slightly medicinal, woody aroma that grounds the composition. 

The florals bloom in abundance: the delicate, dewy freshness of lily of the valley mingles with the heady opulence of jasmine. Rose adds a classic, velvety richness, while orange blossom provides a sweet, radiant brightness. Carnation’s clove-like spiciness weaves through the florals, adding a dusty, vintage charm that feels both romantic and vibrant.

In the base, Beau Belle settles into the quintessential chypre structure, earthy and deeply rooted. Oakmoss dominates, evoking the damp, green scent of a forest floor. The resinous sweetness of labdanum and myrrh adds warmth and a slightly smoky depth. Mysore sandalwood contributes its signature creaminess, smooth and woody, while vetiver provides an earthy, grassy sharpness. Patchouli, with its dark, camphoraceous character, enhances the mossy greenness. Musk and ambergris lend an animalic sensuality, softening the base with warmth and subtle sweetness.

This harmonious base provides a lasting impression that feels sophisticated and natural. The interplay of dry spices, radiant florals, and earthy, mossy accords makes Beau Belle a dynamic, multifaceted fragrance. It is bold yet refined, exuding an air of timeless elegance while celebrating the vibrant spirit of its wearer.

Bottle:

The design of the Beau Belle bottle is an exquisite nod to the elegance and sophistication of the late 1940s, embodying a sense of playful femininity and high fashion. Shaped in the profile of the letter "B," the bottle pays homage to the fragrance’s name while echoing the puff-back silhouette of evening gowns popular during the era. This unique design has earned it the affectionate nickname “bottle with a bustle”, drawing a parallel to the elaborate, figure-enhancing bustles worn in women’s formalwear. The curved lines and exaggerated proportions of the bottle evoke the dramatic, romantic allure of haute couture, making it as much a statement piece as the fragrance it holds.

Adding to its luxurious appeal, the Beau Belle presentation extends to its packaging. The handsome boxes are wrapped in magenta satin, a bold and vibrant color choice that reflects the vivacious spirit of the fragrance. Satin’s lustrous finish enhances the sense of glamour, while the addition of decorative bows infuses the design with a touch of playful femininity. Accents of gold color provide a regal contrast, elevating the packaging into a realm of opulence.

Together, the bottle and its packaging offer a cohesive visual and tactile experience. They suggest the richness of an evening at the opera or a grand ball, where every detail, from gown to fragrance, is chosen to captivate and enchant. This design would have resonated deeply with women of the time, aligning with post-war desires for beauty, indulgence, and a celebration of self-expression. Beau Belle, with its "bottle with a bustle," became not just a perfume but a symbol of timeless elegance and feminine charm.

Modern Packaging, 1950:

"Schiaparelli's "leg art" French bottle for Zut perfume is now housed in green suede, satin-lined drawstring bag. Bourjois design for "Beau Belle" has been nicknamed "bottle with a bustle." "Lover's knot" formed in Lentheric "Repartee" bottle catches the light and gives added sparkle."

Glass Packer, 1951:

"UNIQUE B-SHAPED BOTTLE of Beau Belle perfume is offered by Bourjois in a clear plastic case. Tiny golden bells encircle the neck of the bottle, which rests on a shimmering Christmas bow."

Fate of the Fragrance:

Beau Belle by Bourjois debuted in 1949, capturing the post-war world’s desire for beauty, optimism, and luxury. This perfume, with its vibrant fruity chypre profile, was a reflection of the era’s evolving tastes and Bourjois’s commitment to creating accessible yet elegant fragrances. It entered a market where women were seeking fragrances that embodied sophistication, femininity, and the joie de vivre of the late 1940s and early 1950s.

By 1957, Beau Belle was still available, its presence a testament to its popularity and enduring appeal. However, as the fragrance landscape shifted in the late 1950s, with more minimalist and modern compositions beginning to take center stage, Beau Belle likely found itself competing with emerging trends. The glamorous and rich style of the fragrance, which had resonated so strongly at its launch, may have gradually felt dated as consumers turned toward fresher, simpler scents that mirrored the streamlined fashions of the time.

While no definitive date marks its discontinuation, evidence suggests Beau Belle was likely withdrawn before 1960. Its departure coincided with Bourjois’s pivot toward other innovative creations, ensuring their portfolio remained aligned with contemporary preferences. Beau Belle, though fleeting in its availability, left a legacy of bold design and olfactory artistry that continues to be remembered fondly by fragrance enthusiasts and collectors. It remains a snapshot of a time when glamour and elegance were paramount, and perfumes were crafted to make a statement.